Starkie sharp

[tenbears10]

I think Jake has posted about this before but I found his comments on British Blades and bought one the other day.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/default.asp?part=180010

These things are fantastic. Anyone who owns anything sharp NEEDS one of these. I can't believe how easy it is to get a really sharp edge so quickly.

Even if it is your last £10 in the world spend it on this (you will get £1.60 change )

I can't say how good these are.

Bill

 

[tenbears10]

Just read this on the knife site Viking has posted

"If you've never stropped your knife before, give it a try. It will
come out very sharp, but of course polished and so optimized for
push-type shaving cuts. The strop to some extent can make up for
less-than-perfect sharpening technique -- a sharp knife can be made
extra sharp on the easy-to-use strop. However, I always tell people
that they should be able to get their knife scary sharp without the
strop; don't let the strop keep you from recognizing weaknesses and
improving your technique on the hone!"

So this maybe confirms my status as a novice sharpener BUT If a strop can give results like this in 2 minutes then why do it the long way?

Any comments gratefully received but I still think you need a starkie

Bill

 

[JakeR]

I have never been to good with a waterstone. I could get a shaving edge but it didnt feel *razor*, the starkie sharp strop changes all that!

Cheers,

Jake

 

[Martyn]

So this maybe confirms my status as a novice sharpener BUT If a strop can give results like this in 2 minutes then why do it the long way?

Any comments gratefully received but I still think you need a starkie

Bill

Because over time and with extended use, a strop can distort the edge profile. It can round it off too far and make a heavy regrind necessary to get your edge bevels flat again. If you strop lightly to gain your final shaving edge, but only after you've got it very sharp with stones first, then the two compliment each other. I admit though, this is getting a bit anal about the whole business. If it works for you, great. :biggthump

 

[eraaij]

Because over time and with extended use, a strop can distort the edge profile. It can round it off too far and make a heavy regrind necessary to get your edge bevels flat again. If you strop lightly to gain your final shaving edge, but only after you've got it very sharp with stones first, then the two compliment each other. I admit though, this is getting a bit anal about the whole business. If it works for you, great.

I might add that if you strop on leather glued to a piece of wood, the edge deformation is not that big as compared to a free hanging strop or a strop with a mousemat as a base.

I sincerely wonder if you will be bothered by the edge deformation that the first strop will give you as opposed to exclusive use of waterstones for that 'perfect flat' bevel. I use stropping exclusively for all my tools and I kinda like the very slight convexing I see.

-Emile

 

[JakeR]

You dont get the distortion of the edge if you strop it with the leather on a flat surface. I would imagine the distortion on a flat edge would happen very quickly with the starkie. So i strop it on a bench, unless it is a bark-river.

Cheers,

Jake

 

[Martyn]

You dont get the distortion of the edge if you strop it with the leather on a flat surface. I would imagine the distortion on a flat edge would happen very quickly with the starkie. So i strop it on a bench, unless it is a bark-river.

Cheers,

Jake

It will be less Jake, but leather isn't a hard surface and does deform, even on a bench. It *could* result in misalignment of the edge. You know like you get on kitchen knives just from cutting tomatoes and carrots, which need steeling to realign the edge? As said before, it's getting a bit anal if you're that much of a perfectionist though. If you're happy with the edge you're getting, that's all that matters. :-D

For me, I like to get flat hard edges from stones first and then just strop on an untreated leather belt to finish. I'm happy with the results I get from it. I have used a buffer on occasions, which gives insane results for push or shave cuts particularly, but it seemed to take it out of "true" a little. I dunno if that makes sense. Anyway, it made me cautious about over stropping. Like I said, each to his own. Certainly, once you have got to the point when you're talking about the type of edge you're putting on your knives, then you're well past the point of just fudging your way to a sharp blade.

Actually, this puts me in mind of a project I have up my sleave. I have a powerful lab microscope. I'm hunting for a trinocular head for it, so I can attach a digi-cam to the top. I wanted to take high magnification (x40 to x200ish) shots of edge profiles and maybe tie it in with a series of articles on sharpening. Plenty has been written on sharpening, but it's difficult to "see" sometimes. I dont think anyone has done such, supported with high power micro-photography. Should be cool.

 

[The General]

Sounds good Martyn!

I like a convex edge, so after getting an edge shaving sharp with stones, i will slack belt sharpen with a wide rough leather belt and flitz compound.

I did this with the Gene Ingram passaround and if I don't mind saying myself the edge was sick sharp.

I do this with my Sebenza's and the results are always worth it. Sometimes I don't bother, but it depends on the blade, its use and other factors. Mainly that it takes time to do properly and at the moment time is a rare commodity.

 

[JakeR]

Cheers Martyn. I get what your saying. Leather isnt going to be as flat as a stone (if you know what i mean!). thanks for the advice though. I'll be a bit more cautious with the flate grind.

Cheers,

Jake

 

[Martyn]

Cheers Martyn. I get what your saying. Leather isnt going to be as flat as a stone (if you know what i mean!). thanks for the advice though. I'll be a bit more cautious with the flate grind.

Cheers,

Jake

Dont worry about it Jake, I'm very much making the completely over-the-top knife nuts point here. If your knife is sharp, then it's sharp. End of story. :biggthump

 

[JakeR]

Good advice. But i will take it on board, i'd like to have my knife for many more years to come. An even little things may add-up and make a diference! :biggthump

Jake

 

[bushwacker bob]

why not on the Bark Rivers Jake?

 

[Martyn]

Actually, I was wondering the same thing, a full convex blade is one example where I would choose a strop with paste as a first port of call.

 

[Hogan]

However, I always tell people
that they should be able to get their knife scary sharp without the
strop; don't let the strop keep you from recognizing weaknesses and
improving your technique on the hone!"
Bill

OK. I've ordered one. Can anyone advise me of the correct 'stropping' technique. Is it the same technique (hold & movements) as on the stone?

In the post I also have a mora training knife, and I would like to be prepared when everything arrives.

Thanks in advance...

 

[Martyn]

OK. I've ordered one. Can anyone advise me of the correct 'stropping' technique. Is it the same technique (hold & movements) as on the stone?

In the post I also have a mora training knife, and I would like to be prepared when everything arrives.

Thanks in advance...

Well whenever I'm stropping, I use single strokes backwards and forwards, drawing the spine of the knife towards me and then pushing it away from me. I try and cover the entire lenth of the blade with each stroke. It works for me.