Sheath-question

[Two Socks]

I recently put a handle on a mora-blade:

And now I`d like to have my first go at making a sheath for it. I have some 1-mm thick leather lying around, and I wondered if this is of use? I`d like to try wetforming it, and wonder if this will stay in shape. Should I maybe wait and get thicker stuff, or is it worth a shot?

Thanks in advance.

 

[luckylee]

give it a go mate, you have nothing to loose bud, what you will learn from the mistakes from this one, you can always by more, and rectify them with the next one mate.
just make sure you use a welt mate, it is important.
good luck.
lee.

 

[blacktimberwolf]

As Lee says give it a go. It's a little thin for a sheath but you'll learn so much making one. If it's not veg tanned you won't be able to wet mould it though. The only reason I'd say you'll be wasting you time is if the leather is really soft & supple like upholstery leather.

 

[Two Socks]

Thanks guys. Just going at it and find out if it works is indeed the most sensible idea. I`ll see where I end up.
@Luckylee: May I ask what a welt is? *EDIT: I think i found a tutorial explaining this. Thanks again.*

 

[brancho]

As Lee says give it a go. It's a little thin for a sheath but you'll learn so much making one. If it's not veg tanned you won't be able to wet mould it though. The only reason I'd say you'll be wasting you time is if the leather is really soft & supple like upholstery leather.

While I agree upholstry leather is no good but Veg tanned leather is not the only leather that will wet mould. Chrome is no good for knives as it will cause corrosion. I use half tanned leather for scandi stylesheaths as its better suited than veg tanned leather but many people find it hard to work with.

 

[Dreadhead]

While I agree upholstry leather is no good but Veg tanned leather is not the only leather that will wet mould. Chrome is no good for knives as it will cause corrosion. I use half tanned leather for scandi stylesheaths as its better suited than veg tanned leather but many people find it hard to work with.

thanks for that link i have been wondering about half-tanned leather for ages!

 

[brancho]

thanks for that link i have been wondering about half-tanned leather for ages!

Its anmazing stuff when you get used to it. After wet forming it it can be under 2mm thick and stiffer than 3mm veg tan.

 

[Dreadhead]

yeah i have read that instead of cutting and tooling you just use a modelling tool to push the leather into the shapes you want not sure how ccurate that is though i would love to try it

 

[brancho]

They call it pauting in scandinavia I some info I can email you if you pM me.

I never managed to find a book in englsih on the subject

 

[Two Socks]

So, I had a bash at it yesterday and learned a great deal. I have to be more accurate with the measurements, and use stronger thread. I now know that I want to invest time and effort in leatherwork though. With some practice (and maybe some tools) I can improve. Below my effort. I used a nail as awl, and did the cutting and shaping with my SAK. I marked where the holes would be with a fork. The whole thing isn`t pretty, and it is a pretty awfull fit, but I had fun making it. Thanks for telling me to simply do it. I needed a push

 

[luckylee]

Fantastic bud, you see you have learnt what I hoped you would by having a go, measure twice cut once, is a great thing to remember with leather work, always make sure your nails are cut short, as they can be a nightmare, With leather work, always make sure your cutting tool is as sharp as you can get it, will really help you out no end, and save you mistakes, make sure your awl is very sharp, and more importantly polished.
invest in some tools and take good care of them and they will take care of you, and get you template as perfect as you can before you transfer it to your leather, as card board is penny's, wonder how I no this.
good luck.
happy sewing.
if you ever need any help just ask.
take care.
lee.

 

[luckylee]

Also sometimes wet forming is great, and there is a time and a place for it, depending on the shape of the knife, and the sheath you are making, as a rule of thumb, if I have a barrel shaped knife, or a handle with not much contour I will always go for a friction fit, as with time, it will come loose with wet forming but with friction, well it's friction. It will retain your knife for a very long time, hope that makes some sense, you can only learn this when you have been doing this for a while, and actually use the leather work you make out in the field, which is very important if you are making knife sheaths for people. You need to no how these things stand up to a lot of use, as well as being aesthetically pleasing, function should always come first with knife sheaths, as getting the retention just right, is a skill on its own, you don't want to be fighting with the knife, and you don't want it falling out, you should be bale to give it a shake, and it should stay where it is, but when deploying it should be nice and smooth, that just comes with practice.
i hope this helps a little mate.
lee.

 

[Albus Culter]

Only done a couple of leather bits so no expert here.
But if I was wet forming the style you went for (which I really like) I'd make a sleeve to fit the blade. A piece of wood split and cut to fit the blade then put back together around the blade. It will hold a better shape for the sheath and stop the blade cutting through the leather.
IMHO

Keep up the good work

 

[luckylee]

Only done a couple of leather bits so no expert here.
But if I was wet forming the style you went for (which I really like) I'd make a sleeve to fit the blade. A piece of wood split and cut to fit the blade then put back together around the blade. It will hold a better shape for the sheath and stop the blade cutting through the leather.
IMHO

Keep up the good work

That's a good bit of advice with the Scandi type sheath, just a piece of cheap pine, or a soft wood that is easy to shape, and your away.

 

[Two Socks]

Thanks Lee. I hope that I can get my hands on some new leather to try it again soon, while the lessons are still fresh in my mind. I have a feeling that I can borrow a stitchmarker and an awl from SWMBO`s father. I`m looking forward to (in the end) turning out something usable!

And that sleeve is a great idea, as I can already see damage from the blade in this sheath.

 

[luckylee]

Thanks Lee. I hope that I can get my hands on some new leather to try it again soon, while the lessons are still fresh in my mind. I have a feeling that I can borrow a stitchmarker and an awl from SWMBO`s father. I`m looking forward to (in the end) turning out something usable!

And that sleeve is a great idea, as I can already see damage from the blade in this sheath.

If you go for what I call western type sheath, then as long as you put a welt it then you will be fine you can do these with out an insert, but they are better with a wood insert, with out I would use half tanned leather which has a raw hide core and more robust bud.
there are some great tutorials on here, for you to follow.

 

[brancho]

Look HERE for a scandi sheath tut

Heres one I did for a Mora No1 with a little basic pauting