Sharpening mistake

  • Come along to the amazing Summer Moot (21st July - 2nd August), a festival of bushcrafting and camping in a beautiful woodland PLEASE CLICK HERE for more information.
May 18, 2011
154
0
Scotland
Tried to touch up the blade on my victorinox huntsman and succeeded in bluntening it lol.

I used the smooth side on my DC3 and sharpened like a full flat grind blade, is it full flat ground?

It kind of looked as though it changed angle just above the edge.
 
It isn`t a full flat, as far as I am aware. Just a piece of metal with one small bevel on it. I use a lansky-system on mine, as I cannot get sharpening on a stone right with anything else then a scandi-ground blade. The lansky works great on SAK`s though.
 
I use a dc4 which gets my Huntsman really sharp. The first time I tried it, it appeared not too sharp, I just kept working away at it and nowadays it has an excellent edge.
 
I'll echo what Opal has just said, but make sure you strop (if you haven't already), it can make a whole lot of difference.

Not got any leather for a strop.

I changed the angle i was sharpening at and now have it pretty sharp.

I suppose i could keep sharpening till it became full flat, yeah?

I'd prefer it that way for simplicity of sharpening but don't want to ruin the blade.
 
Do you have a leather belt? If so use that, it works a treat. If not keep your eyes open for a discarded leather sofa or chair and 'pinch' a bit of that. I think I have read on here that you can also strop on cardboard, with some paste such as Autosol and the like.
 
Do you have a leather belt? If so use that, it works a treat. If not keep your eyes open for a discarded leather sofa or chair and 'pinch' a bit of that. I think I have read on here that you can also strop on cardboard, with some paste such as Autosol and the like.

I'm more of a "But trousers that fit kind of guy" lol

Will keep my eyes pealed though everyones stropping is the mutts nuts.
 
There are many things that can be pressed into service as a strop, cardboard, folded newspaper, flat strips of soft wood, even the palm of your hand if you're careful. Anything with a tiny amount of "give", that you can get the edge of your knife along.
Similarly, abrasive can be metal polish, tooth-paste, fine abrasive paper etc, or not used at all.
The technique is to move the blade, spine first - edge trailing, in a movement akin to spreading butter. The trick is to keep the blade angle constant throughout the stroke, being careful as you lift the blade clear at the end of the movement as you flip the blade over to repeat the action on the other side of the blade.
The finer your abrasive and the shorter the strop - the more times you'll have to repeat the stroke!

Simples!

Ogri the trog
 
Most/all Victorinox blades are a full flat with (fairly large) secondary bevel. You'd want to sharpen the bevel rather than the flat, or you'll end up with a razor sharp (due to the incredibly small angle) blade that will blunt instantly (because there's virtually nothing supporting the edge).

Folded newspaper makes an OK strop if you have nothing else, and I did use cardboard as a strop for a while.

Cheers

Cheers
 
I bought one of the hand held sharpener things,(can't link at the mo'),from the Ray Mears site on recommendation.

My saks are now very sharp after using said device.
 
I use an Apex Edge Pro on my SAK's, it is like a Lansky that has a solid base and comes with a variety of waterstones. I can sharpen any edge as sharp as I desire. It takes a bit of setting up but well worth the results. Here is a link. http://www.accuratesharp.com/system/shopexd.asp?id=296

Stropping can be accomplished with an old piece of denim from a pair of jeans. Just attach one end to something, pull tight and strop away. The denim is almost as good as leather for the edge.
 
I aim for factory sharp on my Victorinox knives. Anything sharper would likely either dull rapidly or make small chips in the edge. I have had my Farmer edge chip a bit before, lent it to someone that pryed with it!

Yes, stropping should increase the sharpness. It is mainly to remove the microscopic burr to the edge and to smooth the actual edge. Try to look at your edge under a powerful magnifier if you have one and you can see the before and after effect of sharpening and stropping.
 
I have had problems in the past with various SAK'S due to uneven secondary bevels on the full flat grinds. The best way round this IMO is to convex the blades using various grades of wet and dry on a firmish mousemat,it takes a bit of time and effort but you will end up with a scary sharp SAK that is a doddle to maintain with a strop and compound.
 

BCUK Shop

We have a a number of knives, T-Shirts and other items for sale.

SHOP HERE