Some time back, I acquired a couple of "potentials" at a local car boot sale, covered in rust, neglected and in effect, thrown out. I cleaned them up, re-ground and sharpened them, gave them new ash handles/hafts and have been using them, along with a couple of other regenerated axes and hatchets ever since.
The smaller handled tool is an old Staniforths "Severquick" hatchet, with a lovely thin, more or less parallel profiled blade, making it a nice sharp carving tool
While the other one, is I believe, a "Danke" 600. It's hard to tell as the makers stamp is only half there but the actual shape of the tool is quite a common design, with several manufacturers copying it.
The profile of it's blade is very like the GB small forest axe, though it does have a bit more meat in the cheek.
The handles were made from local, riven ash and both tools are "shaving sharp" quite literally, you can shave off arm or leg hair with them, making them bite into the wood in use, rather than bounce off.
Of course, once you've sorted out your "new" hatchet or axe, you need to protect the edge from damage and you and others from the edge, so some leather-working is required;
You have to invest some time and effort into bringing these tools back to life, in these cases about 10 hours each, but it's well worth it.
thanks for looking and I hope one or two of you are inspired to rescue an old hatchet from a boot sale near you!
best wishes
Steve
The smaller handled tool is an old Staniforths "Severquick" hatchet, with a lovely thin, more or less parallel profiled blade, making it a nice sharp carving tool
While the other one, is I believe, a "Danke" 600. It's hard to tell as the makers stamp is only half there but the actual shape of the tool is quite a common design, with several manufacturers copying it.
The profile of it's blade is very like the GB small forest axe, though it does have a bit more meat in the cheek.
The handles were made from local, riven ash and both tools are "shaving sharp" quite literally, you can shave off arm or leg hair with them, making them bite into the wood in use, rather than bounce off.
Of course, once you've sorted out your "new" hatchet or axe, you need to protect the edge from damage and you and others from the edge, so some leather-working is required;
You have to invest some time and effort into bringing these tools back to life, in these cases about 10 hours each, but it's well worth it.
thanks for looking and I hope one or two of you are inspired to rescue an old hatchet from a boot sale near you!
best wishes
Steve