just thought I'd say, I found an old razor latherer, stone one side strop the other. I've neve liked strops as they're soft and take the edge off things (maybe the point of them)The stone gives a great edge and you can't see the grindind marks unlike others, its ridgid, but still leaves the edge "razor sharp" . The edge integrity is superb as its such a fine stone. i just need a rougher stone so I can remove alot of metal as this stone will take you all day. One car boot bargain I'm pleased with.
Razor Stone
- Thread starter petrochemicals
- Start date
it is a rolls razor by coincidence.
Far better than sandpaper and strop as its ridgid but does not deteriorate. I don't know the point of strops, other than to sharpen an edge, and they don't seem to work on knives, maybe the angles too great, or they're only for single bevel edges.
Far better than sandpaper and strop as its ridgid but does not deteriorate. I don't know the point of strops, other than to sharpen an edge, and they don't seem to work on knives, maybe the angles too great, or they're only for single bevel edges.
I've a rolls razor . Strops don't sharpen as such, just remove fine burrs from sharpening and help maintain the edge imho
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to be honest they probably give a strong convex edge, but it seems to be blunter. Definatley one for the shallow, single bevel. I found the super fine stone gives a virtually burless mirror finish. What stone to remove alot but not too much metal ?
You aren't using your strop properly. Almost certainly too much pressure.
Strops laden with abrasive do sharpen.
Strops laden with abrasive do sharpen.
thing is with stropping is you drag rather than push, thus leading to a burr. The burr is ideal for shaving, why its done, the sharpest edge you can get, but is weak and not what you want for a knife, I'd try the abrasive paste on a ridgid surface to stop the edge becoming curved, and push the knife rather than pull it. Dont know what to suggest though. Also the push is for the final edge, you shouldn't really worry too much about burrs if you are rough sharpening it, as long as you are push/pulling it , backwards and forwards action, the old in and out motion, the up and down ...........
Also with the razor stone, if you leave the accumulated grinding paste on the stone, it aids the sharpening but leaves the edge dull, but if you wipe the paste from the stone it mirror polishes it to a far more cohesive edge.
Strops should be used dry for stropping. Then you are just bending the Burr back and forth until it comes off.
If you put cutting/stropping paste on it then it becomes a sharpening strop rather than a stropping strop
In this case use thin hard leather that wont squash too much, in that way you won’t convex the edge too much and "blunt" the edge.
Wood carvers often use pieces of flat wood with stropping paste on to finish the sharpening on their (non convex edge) knives.
People who can’t get a convex edge often are using too thick leather that forms around the cutting edge and rounds it off. try using different materials that will take the paste. Like cereal box's (rough side) this material will depress a tiny amount giving a micro convex edge
If you put cutting/stropping paste on it then it becomes a sharpening strop rather than a stropping strop
In this case use thin hard leather that wont squash too much, in that way you won’t convex the edge too much and "blunt" the edge.Wood carvers often use pieces of flat wood with stropping paste on to finish the sharpening on their (non convex edge) knives.
People who can’t get a convex edge often are using too thick leather that forms around the cutting edge and rounds it off. try using different materials that will take the paste. Like cereal box's (rough side) this material will depress a tiny amount giving a micro convex edge
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