I would like to learn how to use and maintain a chainsaw; can anyone point me to where I can do this without having to work in the industry please?
Cheers
Andy
Cheers
Andy
Learn to use and maintain a chainsaw?
- Thread starter Kitetraveller
- Start date
The only thing they normally offer is nothing, the manufacturer will by law have a set of safety instructions in the front of the manual along with some basic handling notes ,which are normally quite good.
I don't care very much about the manufacturers. I expect them to abandon their customers.
It's the retail dealers selling power saws, WorkSafe clothing and sharpening supplies that stand up front here.
I will admit that good instruction is far easier to find in villages like mine than in cities of 100K and bigger.
Breakfast view from the table.
It's the retail dealers selling power saws, WorkSafe clothing and sharpening supplies that stand up front here.
I will admit that good instruction is far easier to find in villages like mine than in cities of 100K and bigger.
Breakfast view from the table.
I don't know about professionally run courses. I have been thinking a bit about such things myself lately. I have a long term loan of a Stihl MS181, so not a big saw, and have used it to fell and section five or six trees up to 10" as well as cutting up logs. Before I started I spent time watching instructional videos on Youtube. I don't think I watched enough of them originally, so am going back and watching again, and searching out more.
NOTE. None of the trees I have cut have been bigger than I would have tackled before with bow saw and GB SFA. Not all that tall and not technical. Not in a tangled woodland, lots of clear space in all directions to work and move. No one working with me, but someone else close enough to assist and drive in the event of a problem. YMMV.
STIHL Chainsaw Safety, Operation & Maintenance
Danger! Chain Saw Safety - Training Video
How to work with a chainsaw - Tutorial from Husqvarna
How to Fell or Cut Down a Tree Using a Chainsaw
BC Faller Training Standard (playlist, 17 vids)
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEF6CD38B0FC7CECB
There are also videos about sharpening, fuelling, maintaining and repairing. I just had to replace the grip bar, and will be swapping a leaking chain oil pipe, all based on on-line resources.
Not saying this is better than getting training, but it may be better than poor training or no training, and for what I have been doing, it has been enough.
Chris
NOTE. None of the trees I have cut have been bigger than I would have tackled before with bow saw and GB SFA. Not all that tall and not technical. Not in a tangled woodland, lots of clear space in all directions to work and move. No one working with me, but someone else close enough to assist and drive in the event of a problem. YMMV.
STIHL Chainsaw Safety, Operation & Maintenance
Danger! Chain Saw Safety - Training Video
How to work with a chainsaw - Tutorial from Husqvarna
How to Fell or Cut Down a Tree Using a Chainsaw
BC Faller Training Standard (playlist, 17 vids)
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLEF6CD38B0FC7CECB
There are also videos about sharpening, fuelling, maintaining and repairing. I just had to replace the grip bar, and will be swapping a leaking chain oil pipe, all based on on-line resources.
Not saying this is better than getting training, but it may be better than poor training or no training, and for what I have been doing, it has been enough.
Chris
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I have a LANTRA basic certificate in Chainsaw maintenance and cross cutting. NPTC do the same certificate (now called QCF level 2, it was CF30). If you wield your chainsaw anywhere in public this is the minimum you should get but, to be honest, it's the best basic course for 'home' use as well. It will make sure you don't get into any bad habits. You can choose your instructor from a number in your area but find one by recommendation.
When I took over the wood two years ago it had (and still has) a lot of large wind-blown and hung-up trees - these are the most dangerous ones to deal with (apart from climbing) so I looked for a course that would give me the confidence to deal with them. Unfortunately the LANTRA/NPTC route requires you to go through the levels in turn at considerable cost:
- Felling & processing trees up to 380mm (was CS31)
- Felling & processing tress over 380mm (was CS32)
- Felling uprooted and windblown trees (was CS34 & CS35)
It would have cost me over £1,000 to get to CS34 & CS35 so I paid for a two day course of 1 to 1 instruction (with Phil Dunford in North Wales) - it still wasn't cheap and I don't get the certificate but at least I now know how to do the work safely (and, more importantly, what not to tackle).
Chainsaws are killing machines; I recommend getting professional training.
When I took over the wood two years ago it had (and still has) a lot of large wind-blown and hung-up trees - these are the most dangerous ones to deal with (apart from climbing) so I looked for a course that would give me the confidence to deal with them. Unfortunately the LANTRA/NPTC route requires you to go through the levels in turn at considerable cost:
- Felling & processing trees up to 380mm (was CS31)
- Felling & processing tress over 380mm (was CS32)
- Felling uprooted and windblown trees (was CS34 & CS35)
It would have cost me over £1,000 to get to CS34 & CS35 so I paid for a two day course of 1 to 1 instruction (with Phil Dunford in North Wales) - it still wasn't cheap and I don't get the certificate but at least I now know how to do the work safely (and, more importantly, what not to tackle).
Chainsaws are killing machines; I recommend getting professional training.
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The guy who taught me how to use a chainsaw "ahem" years ago gave me one important piece of information, if you look at a tree and the first thing you say is "ummmmm" walk away and get the professionals in before you hurt yourself or worse still, someone else.
There is no substitute for proper training and safety equipment, these things bite and when they do they make one heck of a mess, ive witnessed a chainsaw accident and its not nice, the chap could have lost his hand at the wrist, but luck was on his side that day and his hand is still attached, but it could have been so much different, this was an experienced and highly qualified tree surgeon, he has since given up and changed careers.
There is no substitute for proper training and safety equipment, these things bite and when they do they make one heck of a mess, ive witnessed a chainsaw accident and its not nice, the chap could have lost his hand at the wrist, but luck was on his side that day and his hand is still attached, but it could have been so much different, this was an experienced and highly qualified tree surgeon, he has since given up and changed careers.
Apart from the sound advice given in post's above my two main personal rules are to treat the chainsaw with great respect and always think the cut through first, where will the saw go if it kicks back, goes through quicker than anticipated and what will the wood do during and after the cut.
They are great tools but you need some knowledge of how timber behaves to reduce problems occurring.
They are great tools but you need some knowledge of how timber behaves to reduce problems occurring.
Too bad it's fuzzy. In my avatar, I am standing infront of a few of the log pieces cut with a big Stihl with a 36" bar.
I don't believe that I have the physical strength to handle a big saw, even a 24" bar is a lot.
Both my power saws, gas and electric, have 16" bars, plenty for me.
I don't believe that I have the physical strength to handle a big saw, even a 24" bar is a lot.
Both my power saws, gas and electric, have 16" bars, plenty for me.
Over 20 years as an arborist and I've seen more bad injuries with Silkies than chainsaws! They are so sharp and cut on the pull stroke.
But, good for you Andy for taking chainsaw use seriously and are looking to get the right training, either Lantra or NPTC registered courses will give you the confidence and knowledge to start learning how to use a saw. Common sense will play a major part in your learning curve and, remember, most courses will teach you best practice but it's up to you to use that knowledge safely. Good luck and enjoy.
But, good for you Andy for taking chainsaw use seriously and are looking to get the right training, either Lantra or NPTC registered courses will give you the confidence and knowledge to start learning how to use a saw. Common sense will play a major part in your learning curve and, remember, most courses will teach you best practice but it's up to you to use that knowledge safely. Good luck and enjoy.
True, but then, no need to carry petrol/oil/sparechains/files/PSE and there's no fumes or NOISE either.
Have you cut trees greater than 380mm with a Silky?
to be honest I've no need to fell or otherwise cut trees or logs of 15 or 16 inch diameter. I wouldn't bother, but if I HAD to I would use my chain saw.
I am cross cutting 6/7/8inch material, birch/alder etc so a decent folding saw sounds about right. I've always found, whatever wood work you do, match the power of the tool to the scale of the work at hand. Mind you I seen a very impressive chain saw cut, some Canadian carver and his son split a 4 or 5 foot cedar log right down the centre with a chain saw, they did the cut, leaving a sliver at the bottom (didn't cut into the ground) then smacked a wedge in and VOILA 2 perfect half cylinders popped open, sides as flat as a table, very skilled
I think the UK situation is vastly different from what we do here. The bulk of our commercial wood supply
coming out of the Taiga is conifer. Too big for a feller-buncher or firewood is all a power saw gets used for.
Buckers and Fallers work in the big stuff on the coast. Here in the interior, very little over 24" except some cedar
and that is always rotten in the core = very dangerous wood for personal harvest. Had a friend crushed by a rotten log
back in about 2008. Never saw it coming.
I'll guess that harvesting big hardwoods with big branches is a whole different sport in the UK.
Looks like a total lark for the arborists on ropes.
Western Red Cedar is really freak wood for sawing and splitting. You cut logs to length ( see my avatar?) with a power saw.
Then you use a big froe (48 oz)and a bigger mallet (48 oz) to split off any thickness you like. Making shakes, if you like.
Anything bigger and as Mr Dazzler points out, you really ought to be using wedges to pop things apart.
That is exactly how my 5" x 5" x 64" wood piece are made at the mill. Saw to length, split to size.
I buy a few log pieces and have them delivered. I'll use a power saw to cut where the risk of splitting incorrectly is big.
The fun part, really, is an 8 lb hammer and a bunch of wedges.
Can you imagine bashing away for a while until the log pops open and you see that you have just
busted into a wasp nest?????
coming out of the Taiga is conifer. Too big for a feller-buncher or firewood is all a power saw gets used for.
Buckers and Fallers work in the big stuff on the coast. Here in the interior, very little over 24" except some cedar
and that is always rotten in the core = very dangerous wood for personal harvest. Had a friend crushed by a rotten log
back in about 2008. Never saw it coming.
I'll guess that harvesting big hardwoods with big branches is a whole different sport in the UK.
Looks like a total lark for the arborists on ropes.
Western Red Cedar is really freak wood for sawing and splitting. You cut logs to length ( see my avatar?) with a power saw.
Then you use a big froe (48 oz)and a bigger mallet (48 oz) to split off any thickness you like. Making shakes, if you like.
Anything bigger and as Mr Dazzler points out, you really ought to be using wedges to pop things apart.
That is exactly how my 5" x 5" x 64" wood piece are made at the mill. Saw to length, split to size.
I buy a few log pieces and have them delivered. I'll use a power saw to cut where the risk of splitting incorrectly is big.
The fun part, really, is an 8 lb hammer and a bunch of wedges.
Can you imagine bashing away for a while until the log pops open and you see that you have just
busted into a wasp nest?????
Have also looked at the big boy although am very tempted by the katanaboy...now that is a saw!
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I did a simple one day basic chainsaw maintenance and usage course, aimed at the domestic user. Clothing and saw was provided. It was a good way to learn the basics and certainly worth doing.
Sadly the organisation that arranged the course it has closed but the local wild life trust was involved so it might be worth you enquiring there.
