How to dye the edge of leather.
- Thread starter Tengu
- Start date
Edgekote (bleh) or dye very carefully applied with a brush.
Alternatively, see how dark the edges burnish?
Alternatively, see how dark the edges burnish?
I tried Edgekote, .... once. 
Horrible stuff in my opinion.
I finish all the edges of my leatherwork by either cutting or sanding the glued and stitched edges so that they are flush and smooth. I then round the corner edge of the top and bottom layer with an edging tool (Normally a #2 on most pieces) then I smooth the edge further with finer and finer sandpaper until I have a slightly rounded edge on the workpiece finished with 1200 grit wet-n-dry. I find I get the best finish by wetting the edge of the leather slightly and keeping the paper dry. I then use whichever leather dye I have finished the rest of the piece with to colour the edges befre getting them damp again and burnishing the edge with a smooth, hard object. (A polished piece of bone is traditional but I have a little plastic wheel I do mine with)
Some leathers do not need to have the edge dyed at all with this process, but other benefit from it enough to make it very worthwhile. Best to try finishing a piece of scrap before you attack your main workpiece to find out which finish will work best for you and the leather you are using.
Horrible stuff in my opinion. I finish all the edges of my leatherwork by either cutting or sanding the glued and stitched edges so that they are flush and smooth. I then round the corner edge of the top and bottom layer with an edging tool (Normally a #2 on most pieces) then I smooth the edge further with finer and finer sandpaper until I have a slightly rounded edge on the workpiece finished with 1200 grit wet-n-dry. I find I get the best finish by wetting the edge of the leather slightly and keeping the paper dry. I then use whichever leather dye I have finished the rest of the piece with to colour the edges befre getting them damp again and burnishing the edge with a smooth, hard object. (A polished piece of bone is traditional but I have a little plastic wheel I do mine with)
Some leathers do not need to have the edge dyed at all with this process, but other benefit from it enough to make it very worthwhile. Best to try finishing a piece of scrap before you attack your main workpiece to find out which finish will work best for you and the leather you are using.
A fiend of mine is a saddler and I'm pretty sure he just uses Indian Ink on a very tightly made mop.
The knife he uses is a saddler's knife bit like an ulu (if I've spellt that correctly) but the blade is very fine and is ground only on one side, very sharp.
The knife he uses is a saddler's knife bit like an ulu (if I've spellt that correctly) but the blade is very fine and is ground only on one side, very sharp.
Make your own felt applicators from 5mm sheet. Apply sparingly and carefully so that dye doesnt bleed into the face of leather you may be using one of a less than perfect match to the pre-dyed finish.
Now, here is a bit of advice learnt the hard way: When gluing two pieces of leather prior to stitching; this applies particularly to that with elastic grab properties, avoid at all cost applying so much that when you compress the two faces the gunk oozes from the sandwich. It is equally important to ensure that such does not move within 1mm (ish) of the edge you are now going to sand and burnish smooth etc because you will NEVER conceal such a glue line no mater how hard you sand or have tried to conceal with the dye as at it simply rejects all such efforts. This is why so many apply multiple layers of CONSEALING Edgecoat as it does indeed mask the failure to heed the above or indeed tackle the job as nicely described by Longstrider and would be performed by any old-school leather craftsmen. Just ask Peter Wall, former Master Leather Craftsperson at Cordwainers Colleague, London
Cheers
Now, here is a bit of advice learnt the hard way: When gluing two pieces of leather prior to stitching; this applies particularly to that with elastic grab properties, avoid at all cost applying so much that when you compress the two faces the gunk oozes from the sandwich. It is equally important to ensure that such does not move within 1mm (ish) of the edge you are now going to sand and burnish smooth etc because you will NEVER conceal such a glue line no mater how hard you sand or have tried to conceal with the dye as at it simply rejects all such efforts. This is why so many apply multiple layers of CONSEALING Edgecoat as it does indeed mask the failure to heed the above or indeed tackle the job as nicely described by Longstrider and would be performed by any old-school leather craftsmen. Just ask Peter Wall, former Master Leather Craftsperson at Cordwainers Colleague, London
Cheers
For glue I like to keep things old fashioned and traditional
Thats why I use good old fashioned.... Evo-Stik !
If you use it properly (let it almost go dry on each surface before putting them together) it works great. I find it best to roughen the leather up with some very coarse sandpaper before applying the glue to give a good bond. Evo-Stik is not only flexible when it's dry but it's waterproof as well.
Thats why I use good old fashioned.... Evo-Stik !
If you use it properly (let it almost go dry on each surface before putting them together) it works great. I find it best to roughen the leather up with some very coarse sandpaper before applying the glue to give a good bond. Evo-Stik is not only flexible when it's dry but it's waterproof as well.
