Frosts Mora Clipper - Help Required

[carnegos]

I'm looking for some help with regards to my newly purchased Frosts Mora Clipper (carbon). I've had it about two weeks now and use it mainly for making tent pegs, carving spoons and batoning wood into smaller pieces. I've already managed to cause some damage to the edge but haven't got a clue how I did it as I've been very careful whilst using it.

I've read quite a bit about sharpening on this site but most of it is about knives with only one bevel and my Clipper has primary and secondary bevels. The primary bevel is different on both sides: Side 1 (has logo) is about 6mm wide while Side 2 is only 4mm wide.

Side 1: (sorry for the bad quality of the photos)

Side 2:

Close up of damage:

Should the primary bevel be the same width on both sides and should I remove the secondary bevel and have just one bevel bearing in mind the sort of work I use my knife for?

I'm thinking of buying a DC4 to repair/sharpen the knife, is this a good choice?

Any help with regards to improving the edge of the blade would be appreciated.

 

[robin wood]

I would advise not removing microbevel though some do, my reasoning here

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29512&highlight=mora+sharp

You can sharpen the microbevel quickly and easily using any sort of stone. First register the primary on the stone then lift the rear of the knife about 5 degrees(just a little). Now take just a few sharpening strokes. Becuase you are only removing metal from a very small secondary it sharpens quickly, much faster than if you were working the whole primary. 5 strokes each side on a medium then fine stone or medium then fine emery stuck to a board would sort it. If you are stressed about it then a spyderco sharpmaker is a good tool for resharpening knives with secondary bevels.

 

[slammer187]

What you'll want to do is flatten out the main bevel and then add an new micro-bevel!
If you were to just sharpen the micro bevel it would get far wider and would end up being a secondary bevel.

 

[Longstrider]

The fact that the main bevels are uneven on your knife is of little concern other than for the look of the thing to be honest. Most Moras I've dealt with have uneven main bevels. Sopme are very uneven, but at a tenner for a finished (very much machine made) knife and a sheath there is no justification for complaint.They could do with flattening however. This always helps with sharpening and maintaining the edge as well as the fact that putting a good polish on them helps prevent crud sticking to them.
The steel of a carbon Mora is, in my opinion, a little too soft for it to withstand use if the edge is made into a 'zero grind' i.e. a plain Scandi with no secondary or micro secondary bevel. I discovered this by accident when the first Mora I owned came brand new with no secondary at all and the edge simply turned into something resembling a badly made saw blade after only very light usage.
On knives like this Ilike to flatten the grind of the main bevels and polish them before putting a very small polished convexed secondary bevel on the very edge. This does wonders for the all-round performance of the knife and is easy to maintain on a strop.

 

[carnegos]

Thank you to the three of you for replying. I now have a better understanding of the bevels on this blade and feel more confident at having a go at sharpening it.

Cheers,
robin