Howdy folks!
I mentioned this process in my CS Tomahawk thread, but just did it again and figured I'd do a write up of it.
Bluing is a black/blue oxide coating on steel which helps to prevent rust and reflection, commonly used on firearms to prevent unnecessary glare. Browning, unsurprisingly, is a controlled brown/red oxide coating (rust!) on steel, for the same purpose, though considerably less common today. This is also called Russeting, and is thought to be one explanation for the term "Brown Bess" (a rifle).
The method for browning is simple enough; allow the surface to rust, then seal with something to prevent the corrosion compromising the steel. I do this with Hydrogen Peroxide, vinegar and salt. Maybe not quite traditional, but extremely fast. Saturate 4 parts hydrogen peroxide with salt, mix with one part vinegar and pour into a spray bottle. Heat the part to be browned under a hot water tap and spray on - rinse and repeat until you have the desired finish, and then neutralise with baking soda. After drying thoroughly, I apply a thin coat of linseed oil, which seeps into the rust and seals it to give a durable and corrosion-resistant finish, though a somewhat rough one. I'm sure that wax would work just as well.
Bluing follows the same technique up until the neutralising, at which point you place the steel part into boiling water. It's quite a startling change, as the rust quickly shifts to a black oxide coating. The roughness of the rust is lost, and the steel will be as smooth as you sanded/polished it before beginning the rusting. Make sure you wipe it down after boiling, as some of the oxide will come off.
And here is the product from Browning and Bluing:
The bluing could be improved by rusting a bit more, but this was a very difficult steel to rust completely and I was running out of solution. As you can see though, it is very effective for giving the dark finish - I had struggled for a long time just to get a moderate grey patina on that leuku!
The Old Hickory knife was browned to match the Tomahawk, though it's likely I will draw it back towards the spine a bit.
I hope this article is informative to someone; I find the "old fashioned way" to often be a much more rewarding way, and I think this is a rather enjoyable process.
Now, safety!
Hydrogen peroxide = dangerous! It is an oxidiser and, like other bleaches, can be extraordinarily dangerous when mixed with hydrocarbons. It also decomposes into oxygen and water, which can cause a pressure build up in containers that can then explode. High concentrations can give off explosive vapours. If you spill it on a material, wash it immediately! If spilled on something, it can evaporate water until it is pure enough at which point it can ignite. Be careful, use safety protection and all that stuff, and it's all good - just read a bit first and remember that I accept no responsibility for any accidents! Including bleaching things
Pete
I mentioned this process in my CS Tomahawk thread, but just did it again and figured I'd do a write up of it.
Bluing is a black/blue oxide coating on steel which helps to prevent rust and reflection, commonly used on firearms to prevent unnecessary glare. Browning, unsurprisingly, is a controlled brown/red oxide coating (rust!) on steel, for the same purpose, though considerably less common today. This is also called Russeting, and is thought to be one explanation for the term "Brown Bess" (a rifle).
The method for browning is simple enough; allow the surface to rust, then seal with something to prevent the corrosion compromising the steel. I do this with Hydrogen Peroxide, vinegar and salt. Maybe not quite traditional, but extremely fast. Saturate 4 parts hydrogen peroxide with salt, mix with one part vinegar and pour into a spray bottle. Heat the part to be browned under a hot water tap and spray on - rinse and repeat until you have the desired finish, and then neutralise with baking soda. After drying thoroughly, I apply a thin coat of linseed oil, which seeps into the rust and seals it to give a durable and corrosion-resistant finish, though a somewhat rough one. I'm sure that wax would work just as well.
Bluing follows the same technique up until the neutralising, at which point you place the steel part into boiling water. It's quite a startling change, as the rust quickly shifts to a black oxide coating. The roughness of the rust is lost, and the steel will be as smooth as you sanded/polished it before beginning the rusting. Make sure you wipe it down after boiling, as some of the oxide will come off.
And here is the product from Browning and Bluing:
The bluing could be improved by rusting a bit more, but this was a very difficult steel to rust completely and I was running out of solution. As you can see though, it is very effective for giving the dark finish - I had struggled for a long time just to get a moderate grey patina on that leuku!
The Old Hickory knife was browned to match the Tomahawk, though it's likely I will draw it back towards the spine a bit.
I hope this article is informative to someone; I find the "old fashioned way" to often be a much more rewarding way, and I think this is a rather enjoyable process.
Now, safety!
Hydrogen peroxide = dangerous! It is an oxidiser and, like other bleaches, can be extraordinarily dangerous when mixed with hydrocarbons. It also decomposes into oxygen and water, which can cause a pressure build up in containers that can then explode. High concentrations can give off explosive vapours. If you spill it on a material, wash it immediately! If spilled on something, it can evaporate water until it is pure enough at which point it can ignite. Be careful, use safety protection and all that stuff, and it's all good - just read a bit first and remember that I accept no responsibility for any accidents! Including bleaching things
Pete
