An axe handle´s shape

oetzi

Settler
Apr 25, 2005
813
2
64
below Frankenstein castle
I own quite a few axes, though probably not nearly as many as BritishRed;)
40108007.jpg


Over the years I found some more to my liking than others.
First is weight, any two-hand axe with a head heavier than 900gr/2lbs was disgarded from use. Equally the 1/2-hander with a head heavier than 700gr/25oz.
Second factor is the shape of the handle.
I particularly dont like the knob at the end of GB´s axes, they reduce useable lenght by about 1" and hurt my pinkie. Why should I bear with it, then? Solution was esay, I always file that knob down into a flat ramp. This is way better to grab. The SFA shown has it already, the LFA is still original:
40108009.jpg


What I also dislike is the curve at the end of the handle. I seem to have better control with a straight one, cant explain why. The old Hatchet on the right (with filed-off knob) had the sweep, the new one on the left lacks it:
40108008.jpg


From right to left:
The Roselli with its ramped knob on the spine. Excellent to grip and control and I can use the whole lenght of the handle. I had to reduce the swelling for my rather small hands, though.
The Wetterlings Hunter, old style. See the slight sweep of the spine at the end of the handle? very good to grip, one of my favourites.
Then GB´s Hunter. Still curved, but at least without that pesky knob.
The new Hunter from Wetterling. A perfect handle, straight at the end for good control and a nice ramp to not let the handle slip through a sweaty hand. A favourite, too.
The SFA from GB. The knob is already filed down, the spine is way too curved for my liking.
40108010.jpg
 

perpetualelevator

Tenderfoot
Jul 5, 2007
73
0
Toronto, Canada
What I also dislike is the curve at the end of the handle. I seem to have better control with a straight one, cant explain why.

A gentleman named Dudley Cook has a reasonable explanation for this, from "Keeping Warm with an Axe." It has to do with the curve of the handle amplifying any twisting that your bottom wrist puts into the swing. Old Jimbo seems to know a lot about axes as well.

http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/aas.html

Edit: I thought I'd remembered seeing his name here, and he is a member. Hasn't posted in a while, though, so I don't know if he's around much.
 

robin wood

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Oct 29, 2007
3,054
1
derbyshire
www.robin-wood.co.uk
Interesting subject and I like the link to Jimbos page and Dudley Cooks axe book and sketches sound fascinating (just ordered)
My all time favourite axe handle was one that came on a big old 4lb Elwell felling axe. I used it a lot and felled some very big trees with it and a crosscut. It was old though and finally gave up. I kept it to copy but have not got round to it yet, I'll try to post a pic tomorrow. Its much thinner than all those pictured here which means more whip and less shock transferred to the hand. That axe sailed through the air with the slightest of effort.
 

fishy1

Banned
Nov 29, 2007
792
0
sneck
I too use the GBA scandi forest axe and find the hole annoying. I think personally, if this handle breaks, I'd get a longer handle. I'm more comfortable with a longer handle, and the bump doesn't feel right when you grip it.
 

littleknife

Member
Jun 7, 2007
13
0
Arlington, Virginia, USA
I also don't like the knob too much and prefer the old style Wetterlings handle design.

The end curve sure makes comfortable to hold onto longer axe handles, but from purely functional perspective any curved handle is inferior to true straight handles (for details see Cook's book).

Similarly, the curved handle and knob on a short hatchet is nice when carrying the axe in the hand and very pleasing on photos which seduce the prospective customer, but not too helpful when chopping. Just MHO.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,891
2,143
Mercia
What an interesting thread oetzi. I have a variety of likes and dislikes. The first is the finish on almost axe handles from GB and Roselli. Why I dont know but they have an almost "sticky" quality. All mine get rubbed right back, wire wool finished and then oil wrapped. I like a very smooth finish otherwise I find the inevitable hot spots and rubs occur.

Hmmm helve design depends on weight and balance. I agree I don't like the Small Forest but I really like the balance and power of a Scandinavian Forest from the GB range. The Wetterling Large Hunter is a much better axe in the 18" range I think. I have a battered and loved version my friend gave me. I spent a long time getting the bevels "just so". But the straighter, thicker handle really gels with me. I grip just above the "bump" and it fits my hand to a tee. It has more of an "agricultural" feel than the Scandinavian but its wonderfully tough. I use mine most days this time of year and its an old friend.

On a heavier axe I do like a double bit - the full size GB working axe is a joy to use - the straight handle and balanced feel of the double bit really works in that environment.

In the smaller axes I really like my Cegga - it grips well and feels great - smaller than an SFA but bigger than a wildlife it is my perfect "pack axe" for light camp duty.

Of all my axes (and yes I do have a few) I'd pick out those four above all the rest as "best of breed" in terms of handle shape and balance

Red
 

mr dazzler

Native
Aug 28, 2004
1,722
83
uk
interesting differences of opinion on the roselli ace. I just got one for a christ mas gift. I like it, very responsive for carving and shaping/trimming. I dont do tree felling so big axe issues aren't relevant to me. However I find the roselli axe handle TOO smooth, it has a tendency to move a bit easily from one sweet spot to another depending on if your doing a light/medium or full on chop power cut, I like my hand to stay where it is on the handle without thinking about it too much. I applied some oil stain which has made it more tacky. I use axes a lot, my hand's are rough, I cant remember ever getting blister's. My sandvik has a rough hewn handle, you can see and feel the drawknife and fettling mark's, I like the extra grip. My hands are wrecked from industrial activity (carpel tunnel, arthritis :rant: ) so every little helps. I even tried a file textured grip on a gilpin recently, it defiately works but is maybe a bit too much, although I've used it for several 2 hour sessions with no blister's etc??
Oetzi I used a sinilar handle end to your favourite wetterlings old style hunter on my log splitting axe which I done recently. I like that finnish wedgie billhook type swell.
Untitled-7.jpg

Its about 30 mm diameter (round) at the narrowest point before the swell starts, an 30x50 mm oval close to the axe head. Its such a nice axe (hand forged) I am a bit ashamed to have just used it for splitting fire woods, its capable of better things (eg cross cutting into bowl's and troough's)
 

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