A few days out in the Northern Territory of Australia

Totumpole

Native
Jan 16, 2011
1,066
9
Cairns, Australia
I have been out a bit out of action the last 18 months with an intercontinental move. This trip was actually about 18 months ago, not too long after I had moved out to Australia. As I'm playing a bit of catch up on the forums I thought I would share the adventure with you all now.


Since my move I had been keen to get out bush and explore as much as I could before the first wet season set in. It was September time: the start of the "build up". This is essentially a few months of increasing heat and humidity before the wet season kicks in. It generally gets ridiculously hot. Walk out from your air conditioned house after a shower, and by the time you are in the car you are wondering why you bothered showering at all! The same goes for the next 6 months. Only when it rains do you get a drop in the humidity and a cool breeze that is a welcome relief.


I packed my bag and the car and set off. It was the first time I had used my Frost River Island Royale Jr Bushcraft rucksack for more than just an overnighter, and it was extremely comfortable over the distance. Anyway, here is my kit, and the bag all packed.




I had set off from Darwin in good time, with the aim of driving via Kakadu National Park to visit and camp at Maguk falls on my first night. I got sidetracked driving around a 4wd track in Mary River national park and didn't get into camp until just before dark. I did make it up to the falls for a freshen up, but the only decent picture I got was of this Baramundi just chilling out by the edge of the creek.



I set up camp, and cooked up my supper which was a complete disaster. by far the worst meal I have ever made!




For the damper, my excuse is that it was the first time I had tried it in a camp over. However, for my "Chinese vegetable fried rice", I have no excuse. It looked and tasted like groul.


The following day I trotted off down to Nitmiluk national park but arrived a bit later than I intended. They have a rule that you cannot start out on the track after midday, and I made it in the nick of time (1130). The woman at the visitor desk tried to dissuade me from setting out that day but i had to if i was going to make it all the way down the track. I eventually persuaded her that I wasn't an idiot, knew the risks and the environment and could make my camp in plant of time. She let me go on my merry way with a departing cautionary warning about poisonous snakes, bush fires, getting gored by wild pigs or trampled by water buffalo.


I bypassed the first few loop walks in favour of getting to my intended campsite at the pleasantly named Dunlop Swamp. The distances were not huge, but it was pretty hard going in the heat. I did make it in plenty of time so I set up camp before I back tracked a few KM's to take the side track down into the gorge for a swim at Lilly Ponds



The side walks down from the main trail were far more interesting with the odd little bit of scrambling to make it down to the water. I did come across a reasonable sized pig, but it kept its distance. Getting into the water in the gorge was a welcome relief. Despite the fact they actively trap and remove salt water crocodiles, I was still to afraid to stray too far from the bank into the murky depths!



I made it back up to my camp in the swamp before night fall and relaxed for a while before cooking up my dinner. Chorizo, pasta mixed up with a tomato powdered soup - far better than my previous nights let down!



I would have loved to have a little fire but open fires are completely banned in the park. Anyway, I settled in for an early night, but was somewhat disturbed by what sounded like an elephant in the bush right next to me. The noise gradually moved around me and got closer, it was pitch black and I couldn't see a thing. When I turned on my torch there was a huge buffalo about 3 metres away! It was more scared of me and promptly scarpered and did not bother me for the rest of the night.


The next day I found its tracks right in the campsite clearing (SAK for scale).



A couple of hours further down the trail I made it to a fork in the road, dropped my main bag and took the Jawoyn side track to explore some of the rock art.




I got back onto the main track and made my way down to the end of the line, 8th gorge. The gorge system goes on to a 13th Gorge, but the only access is by helicopter.
I set up camp again at the designated site which is at the top of the escarpment, which has absolutely stunning views!



I had made it to camp by lunchtime, so spent the entire afternoon down by the gorge, snacking, swimming and rinsing the sweat out of my clothes. In the mid afternoon it was just shy of 40 degrees, even down in the gorge!




I really wished I had taken a hand reel (which is totally legal in to use in Australian waterways) to help pass the hours, but it was still great to spend an afternoon in sheer tranquility, the silence only interrupted by the hourly helicopter flights overhead.


I got back up to the escarpment, cooked my supper and enjoyed it whilst watching a stunning sunset.



The following day I headed back up the track to Dunlop swamp and then took the side trail down to Smitt Rock. I again set up camp in the allocated space on the escarpment. I tried to lay down for a while, but even in the shade of the tarp it was unbearably hot and I had to descend down to the gorge.




I whiled away another afternoon swimming in (or rather at the edge of) the gorge, and then got to chatting with another group of guys. they were the first people I had come across since departing the visitor centre over 48 hours earlier! We shared a couple of drams and stories while we cooked our evening meals by the water. They had set up there camp on the beach in the gorge, so a little after dark I parted there company and made my way back up the escarpment in the dark. All I can say is thank god the trail markers were reflective or I would really have struggled.


The next morning I was greeted with the best sunrise I have ever seen, it was truly spectacular.



The guys from down in the gorge caught up with me before I broke camp. We traded some homemade jerky for some trail mix, exchanged emails to swap some photos and walked up the trail together. I parted with them again back at Dunlop swamp as they made there way towards 8th gorge and I returned back to my car at the visitor centre.


Not the most bushcrafty of trips, but an extremely enjoyable adventure. Thanks for reading.
 
thanks for the pics-now I have some tears in my eyes from being homesick.... .I'm looking at some of my old "" hunting""grounds....wish I had the pics of my trip in 2009 at hand(they're in OZ) when I carried a rubber kayak in my pack to the upper gorges in nitmilukNP and then floated downstream for two days....




question:what tarp is that in your pics?!
 

Chaard

Forager
Jul 9, 2013
205
0
Reading
amazing pics - I'm truly jealous!

looking at your pic of the tarp in dunlop swam- I had similar bunching with mine on my first trip. I ended up making some makeshift soft caribiners out of 2mm cord with a loop at one end, a knot at the other.

you can then use a larks head knot to close the cord into a bigger loop and use a prussic knot to let you tighten your tarp along your ridge line.

doesn't look like you had much rain or wind to contend with though!

great write up and i look forward to plenty more :D
 

Totumpole

Native
Jan 16, 2011
1,066
9
Cairns, Australia
amazing pics - I'm truly jealous!

looking at your pic of the tarp in dunlop swam- I had similar bunching with mine on my first trip. I ended up making some makeshift soft caribiners out of 2mm cord with a loop at one end, a knot at the other.

you can then use a larks head knot to close the cord into a bigger loop and use a prussic knot to let you tighten your tarp along your ridge line.

doesn't look like you had much rain or wind to contend with though!

great write up and i look forward to plenty more :D

Yeah, I thought that's because I had set the ridge line a bit higher at one end compared to the other. You are right, in hindsight I didn't need it to shelter from much other than the sun. Definitely look into the system you suggest next time I'm out (not really used my tarp since).

o.k., that answers my question:rolleyes: -- I was just wondering about the camo pattern which I had not seen before....

if I understood correctly you went out alone in nitmiluk NP: did you have to call the visitors centre before 16.00 as well or has this megastupid rule been abandoned by now?!

My recollection is that it was it was the only colour available when I got it a few years back. I would prefer a solid earthy colour tbh, not a huge fan of camo, I'm not trying to hide!

The current ruling (at least last time I checked) is that you have to sign in and pay your fee's, and then make sure you let them know you are out again so they don't go looking for you (you are in for a fine if not). I think they recommend calling in when you walk the Jatbula trail because they don't have a ranger station at the end of the walk. It's a perfectly sensible rule as the conditions are unforgiving. If you go out and get stuck without letting someone sensible know you are truly up the proverbial creek. In my travels and line of work I have come across the people who don't adhere to what seem like silly "rules", and if I see them alive they are the lucky ones.
 
Yeah, I thought that's because I had set the ridge line a bit higher at one end compared to the other. You are right, in hindsight I didn't need it to shelter from much other than the sun. Definitely look into the system you suggest next time I'm out (not really used my tarp since).



My recollection is that it was it was the only colour available when I got it a few years back. I would prefer a solid earthy colour tbh, not a huge fan of camo, I'm not trying to hide!

The current ruling (at least last time I checked) is that you have to sign in and pay your fee's, and then make sure you let them know you are out again so they don't go looking for you (you are in for a fine if not). I think they recommend calling in when you walk the Jatbula trail because they don't have a ranger station at the end of the walk. It's a perfectly sensible rule as the conditions are unforgiving. If you go out and get stuck without letting someone sensible know you are truly up the proverbial creek. In my travels and line of work I have come across the people who don't adhere to what seem like silly "rules", and if I see them alive they are the lucky ones.

I did both my canoeing trip and the walk to Edith falls in 2009-- it took me three month of emailing and stupid questions from a(rather dumb) employee of "" parks and wildlife""" to get permissions sorted.... not only did this stupid person book me for the wrong campsites, he/she also forgot to mention that there's a starting time and that solo walkers were required to call NP headquarters from the emergency radios on the trail before 16.00 or they send a search helicopter.... I did not find both facts out until the day I started...
not only does this megastupid rule meant I was basically running against time to avoid this instead of going slow and enjoy the scenery-- it also put me at increased risk: normally I rest during the hottest time of the day instead of running to reach the radios.....
 

Totumpole

Native
Jan 16, 2011
1,066
9
Cairns, Australia
I did both my canoeing trip and the walk to Edith falls in 2009-- it took me three month of emailing and stupid questions from a(rather dumb) employee of "" parks and wildlife""" to get permissions sorted.... not only did this stupid person book me for the wrong campsites, he/she also forgot to mention that there's a starting time and that solo walkers were required to call NP headquarters from the emergency radios on the trail before 16.00 or they send a search helicopter.... I did not find both facts out until the day I started...
not only does this megastupid rule meant I was basically running against time to avoid this instead of going slow and enjoy the scenery-- it also put me at increased risk: normally I rest during the hottest time of the day instead of running to reach the radios.....

Daily check ins like that is a bit ridiculous! Hopefully that is not the case any more, hoping to do that walk this dry season.
 

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