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Well, keeping the angle is just a matter of training, nothing that can't be achieved. The microbevel might be simplier since you have to sharpen only a slim strip of steel and, also, it will slow down the blade wearing process: sharpening all the bevel every time takes away a big load of...

As for many mass produced finnish knives the blades come from Lauri Metalli Oy, a Kauhava factory founded in 1928. These blades are stamped from Krupp 80 CrV 2 carbon steel and do have a secondary bevel out from the factory, not even that small. The 80 CrV 2 is by the way a nice steel to work...

I have one, but it has already few years. It has the old Mora stamp, so measures might have slightly changed. - total lenght: 212 mm - handle lenght: 107 mm - handle width: 18 mm at the blade/ferrule junction, 21 mm at ferrule/handle junction, 27 mm in the middle of the handle, 22 mm at the...

If you take a look at leukus forged by finnish blacksmiths you'll find out that they're usually 4-5 mm (0.158''-0.197'') thick. In my experience a leuku that thick with 8''-9'' blade usually weights between 350-450 g (12.3-15.8 oz), still light enough to be carried easily, but obviously more...

Yes, I use a leuku sometimes and works well for me. Here you have some serious leuku reading. http://perkelesblog.blogspot.it/2012/02/5-leukus-from-finland.html

The yatagan is an historical weapon, rather unknown too. The russian knife in the link has that blade profile, but is not a yatagan.

I'm fine with a puukko or brukskniv, 10 cm carbon steel blade (thickness vary depending on task and blade geometry), wood or birch bark handle and leather sheath with liner. I prefer barrel shaped handle as they give the greatest possibility of grips and confort during use. For a start I too...

To put it extremely simple the finnish puukko, like the swedish brukskniv and the norvegian tollekniv was born in early middle age as the all around belt knife of the free man. So they were most likely used for all those daily works like whitling tools handles, splitting kindlings, skinning...

95-100 mm rhombic blade and 110 mm birch bark handle is fine for me too.

Number 6 in the slideshow http://www.yp-taonta.fi/Valmiit%20Puukot/index.html

My suggestion would be <£50: Mora or factory made puukko £50-£100: higher quality factory made scandi to handmade by a smith >£100: handmade scandi or puukko

Very nice realization indeed! Two personal observation: I wouldn't call it a proper "puukko", but more a "brukskniv/tollekniv" due to low bevel and ricasso. Those two features are common on swedish and norvegian knives, not on finnish puukkos. ;) You will use it for carving and general use? 56...

Self quoting

For 120-125 £ you can get a custom leuku from a finnish blacksmith. Beeing a leuku user myself I would suggest you to ask a convex (or cat's cheek, as they call it) grind if you're going to process hard woods often. I too have quite small hands and I'm fine with a 20 cm blade with 5 mm spine...

The knife has a factory version of the rhombic section that many finnish handforged blades have. So the very spine will be 2 mm thick while the side of the blade will be 5 mm in the thickest point, just where the bevels start. This geometry is widely used in Finland and dates back few hundred...

You can get a birch bark, handforged puukko for 120£ from blacksmiths around Finland.

Good knives for the price: raw fit and finish, but great performances. Blades are in K720/O2, tangs are drawn out with power hammer while blades are hand forged with hand held hammer, than oil quenched and tempered to about 60 HRC to the edge. Handles too are left a bit raw and give a good...

There you go. http://tuluskivi.suntuubi.com/?cat=27 http://tuluskivi.suntuubi.com/?cat=7 http://tuluskivi.suntuubi.com/?cat=35 Ilkka is an old styled blacksmith, bowmaker and wilderness guide. The BushProwler is his own EDC.

@ Raikey: sounds good. With laminated blades there is always some chance of problems during welding, but if the lamination line is regular and has no darker spots it's well welded and won't give problems. The blade seems very well made in any case and thanks for the reply. @southey: I'm on BB...

First of all we need some other feedbacks on the blade itself, I suppose. Steel's grain, how is the lamination line, sharpness, grinded to zero or wih mircobevel etc ;) Speaking of the handle try this shape, but also a barrell handle one. Make a cardboard tempalte to get a hint of how that will...