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It does mainly deal with repairs of clothing, equipment and tents. Mostly canvas. Just google US field manual 10-16 general fabric repair. Poly or PA taping matters little, it is how the seam is made that matters, when it comes to seam strength. Look here buddy, I worked with heavy sewing...

masking tape is good. Bulldog clips (the kinds you use for paper). If you have a industrial machine get rubber feed dogs.

A real genuine bar tack is done by hand, with three long stitches and then the remainder of the thread is looped around the stitches on the top side, which means that the whole length of the thread will reinforce but only three stitches in the fabric. A lockstitch bar tacking machine also does...

The way you have 'Bar tacked' (which it really isn't, but that's another story) will lead to weakness in the cloth due to the small stitch length. So your reinforcement is actually the opposite.

Look at US army field manual FM 10-16, basically everything you need to know on how to sew and repair clothing and equipment. For the youtube-impaired people like myself.

They don't use that anymore. I think it was their own name for a generic ptfe- or PU-membrane. So except performance below Gore-Tex and eVent, but probably better than a cheap set of rain gear.

I've used a few during service. They are 400 gr/m I think. They're 80/20 wool/PA, which means they'll hold up longer. The army had a lot of trouble with soldiers 'loosing' them because they were so comfortable.

But why? Why would you need this?

Now, to be honest this jacket is 7-8 yrs old and has seen a lot of use. Abuse almost. And I've worn it from the equator to 79 degrees north so it has been around. But I never expected such catastrophic failure. I managed to rip it by trying to take it of. It was wet and stiff and I was sitting...

Turns out not so good: Had it been goretex it would been easy to duct tape. If the weather hadn't been so good the day after I ripped it I would have been forced to stitch it up, with an awkward fold right under the backpack. There are always drawbacks and advantages with all materials...

I have one in stainless that I haven't used in years. Shipping will kill you though.

Man up and get used to it.

Read my post again regarding your local woods vs extreme conditions. There are tons of research available. Look at google scholar or pick-up any textile engineering book at your local university library.

Upholstery suppliers usually have heavy canvas. Profabrics.co.uk has as well.

Mine HH is very worn around the bottom hem and around the wrists, is also has a few holes here and there on the back. And the inside is full of pilling.

I've done loads of longer (15+ days) outings in natural fibres and PE/CO clothing. Never bothered by the weather one bit. From spitsbergen and lapland to SE asia and northern africa... Sure I've been cold, wet and miserable, but so have I been in gore-tex, sympatex, fleece and event as well...

I deal daily with a few merchants who sell sutings and coatings, and in comparison hainsworth is actually pretty low priced. But it's all in the frame of reference though. Buying absolutely top knotch cloth for ~£50-ish which will protect me from the elements and keep me warm for tens of years...

Hello, I have recently received swatch books from a couple of british cloth merchants. Most of the cloths are not that interesting for you lot, but Hainsworth of Pudley has some fabrics which I would be happy to use for bushy stuff. Their cavalry twill would make a fantastic woolen outerwear. A...

I use homeknitted, eskimo and knee high shooting socks. Most socks have been darned several times. I have a pair which are more darning than socks I believe. Can really recommend a darning mushroom, darning needles and darning yarn, my best bushie investment.

This is correct. Not only natural rubber but some synthetic versions too. I have a leather soap with glycerine, for saddles, leatherbags, and dog gear. It works wonders for my wellies too. And my lundhags (both leather and rubber). In fact I use it on all my leather items when they're dirty...