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I just copied this from my website. I often refer to it as a real-world steel; steel properties, corrosion resistance, edge retention, and re-sharpening are always a trade-off. The harder it is, the longer it might keep its edge, but that is generally because it is more resistant to wear, which...

For instance. This is a laser cut, 3mm thick, SF100, P120 blank heat-treated to around 60/62 Rockwell hardness, with some 24" Stillsons on it. Returns to perfectly flat.

There was a time when I wouldn't dream of making a knife without a lanyard hole; fitting them was just a matter of course. Now, the vast majority of my work doesn't get one; they seem to be very out of fashion. 3mm stock SF100 steel, again, the vast majority of my work these days is 3mm stock...

Thank you, I am very happy with it. It was designed jointly with various deer stalkers that I work with/for, directly targeted at their market. The P (Portland) name I am even happier with, once developed one of these professional stalkers, and I were on WhatsApp one evening attempting to name...

Love that, the knife and the story. I'd say 70s rather than 60s, and I love that too, for me that is like Mk1 Escorts/Cortinas and the badges and likes being today's classic cars, nobody wants the older stuff now. The classic car buyers are now my age, and that is what we want. That said, I...

Four set for off today... P90 in Hunter Orange ~ 4" DPH in green canvas Micarta over yellow G10 ~ Hunter model in blue over red G10 and a P90 modified DP in blue/black Suretouch.

Another grallocher going out today; this one features a beautiful piece of bookmatched Desert Ironwood.

The good old days, glue some knives up and then go home :naughty:

Well spotted. The fixing holes are 8mm, the holes in the scales and lanyard are more like 6 and a bit mm. I use this type of set-up.

This knife. Now looks like this. As mentioned earlier, like an idiot, I glued up (with CA) 2 x RH scales, which isn't going to work, is it? I was short of blue G10, though, and I knew that that incorrectly fitted liner would not be coming off without causing damage, so this morning...

Done a little more on mine today, sounds like we have gone about the process in a very similar way.

Yup, the residue is a PITA, I persevered for years with the meths to remove it. How are you 'fixing' the removable scales? I am on with one at present too. I might use epoxy now and again, not very often at all, though. I find the CA much stronger, by a long way. I use two different...

That's a great memory, my friend. All cyanoacrylate there, I suspect that the difference in appearance might be that those photos were taken at different (later) times through the day? Rather than working on a couple or three at a time through each process, all those builds (as I call them)...

Mainly sticking and screwing handles on today...

It scrubs up well.

Rosewood in particular it is Javan Rosewood, renowned as being the most sought-after timber originating from Java. It is referred to there as Grandfather Wood, it is actually now extinct in the 'wild' and is only grown in community plantations, all of which are been passed down through...

Yep, @HillBill and @Nice65 have nailed it, it is a gralloching blade, for doing exactly as they describe. Here a photo of a finished one, you'll see that the tip is left totally unground.

Todays image. Is it just me or does anyone else see the Halloween pumpkins? :laugh:

Hi Chris, how's things mate? Those grinds were done on a wheel around 6" in diameter, and the surface grinder is a hard wheel (stone) one. That blade is already heat treated, I do all my grinding post HT these days. Thank you. Commonly known as a glass breaker pommel. Although I did do some...

Not quite bushcrafty :naughty: Ground yesterday, 4.4mm stock, deep hollow grinds.