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BushMoot: Come along to the amazing Summer Moot 31st July - 5th August (extended Moot : 27th July - 8th August), a festival of bushcrafting and camping in a beautiful woodland PLEASE CLICK HERE for more information.
A smith might approach a repair thus:
(1) grind out as much rust, dirt and misc. junk as possible
(2) hammer-weld the split (the success of which will depend on the skill of the smith and the exact steel used in the making of the axe) reforming as much of the mushrooming as possible at the same...
Because you need so much encouragement to start a DIY project ;)
http://www.northwestjournal.ca/XIV122.htm
http://www.northwestjournal.ca/XVI1645.htm
You can get a heavy electric soldering iron for under £10...
You can buy powdered iron oxide (red or black) from many sources and it'll be a lot purer than processing it yourself -- fewer variables for your first smelt. What method/technique were you planning?
Oh that brought back some memories! When I was a kid my grandad took a holesaw to an ok 2x4 and added four finishing nails to the 'core' to make me one of these. I spent many an hour watching TV with them while turning yarn into ropey stuff. I miss them both.
I'm only just starting out myself but would agree with Stu (great tip about the forks there). Advice from a professional beltmaker friend: overstitch wheels are terrible.
Try getting hold of the book Bush Leatherworking by Ron Edwards. Plenty of projects, how-tos, sage advice and home-made...
It's a result of the manufacturing process, where blade blanks are stamped/punched from a massive steel sheet. They don't bother to clean it up because that would cost money. You can clean it with a fine file or a stone if you want, it does help when sparking a ferro-rod.
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