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currently out of stock but a great knife http://www.raymears.com/Bushcraft_Product/952-Morakniv-Companion-Heavy-Duty-MG-Knife/

Why? Slightly concerned about involuntary cannibalism?

No but zinc fume is very nasty. Burn it all off in a well ventilated fire before starting any working shaping and you should be fine.

Certainly ok for heat treat, possibly not up to welding temps.:o

Chinese medicine herbalist might buy it

PITS Folder

Kiridashis fulfill the same function as Stanley knives. The blades aren't disposable and they are best suited for marking out, cutting veneers and inlays. The single bevel and offset makes it easier (than a Stanley) to make square/flush cuts off a ruler. Great for cutting out leather. They seem...

If you can see the grain, it sounds like poor heat treat/ lack of tempering which would explain your comment about carbon steel "brittleness". Remember, the type of steel is less important than a good HT.

I tend to use a offcut of oak clamped in the vice with the blade cutting across the grain. I've had too many blades scratch when they move while clamped in the vice (perhaps I'm hitting a bit too hard).

I like my toothy D2 semi stainless. Very good corrosion resistance but also takes on a little bit of patina.

Why are you splitting the rubbishy gnarly roots and the crotch wood? That's the stuff that makes the best knife handles

No, but you can gild one.

Or use a cabinet scraper rather than sandpaper. It's just a piece of sheet steel with a raised burr http://woodgears.ca/scraper/index.html they also come in a variety of french curves

The identity store has a great range and everything you need for starting out. I tend to get my stuff from leprevo as I buy leather in sides/hides and my other stuff in bulk (works out cheaper)

The ones that are 3/4 layered strips with a couple of knots at each end are the best value as the entire piece is usable (and quite often they are one long strap). The ones structured to look somewhat like a bone are generally one wide piece stuffed with offcuts, If you need a wider strip of...

With my knifemaking I started with double the materials costs. Unfortunately, with leatherwork, it's mostly about time rather than materials. I would probably look at how much a mass produced item was and then add 40% for its bespoke/handmade nature. If the piece calls for more work than basic...

My only criticism is a personal preference. I prefer Sam Browne's to press studs, because they don't make a noise and they don't break.

The bark looks about right for Yew, but the bi-colour "dark heartwood" might just be from the knot. A picture of the cut end would help.

Having cut a lot of large hard vegetables (Turnips, swedes, celeriac etc.) with a Deba (because the guy in the Portland Kitchen Knife Supply shop told that was what you use a Deba for) I can tell you that a "chisel grind" aka single bevel scandi grind blade tends to try and cut a long radius...

I'm fairly sure that before the Royal Navy issued the all steel folding clasp knife with marlin spike and shackle key usually called a rigging knife or boat knife a bit like this http://www.madeinsheffield.com/view_item.asp?productid=72, they used to issue one of these with a separate spike &...