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Thanks guys... Survived another year anyway!

I'd better make this one!

More info - http://www.mikesknives.co.uk/7.html

And tigers. The beach where I did my first open water dive, a woman had been fatally bit by one a couple of weeks previously. 'Course, I didn't find that out until after getting back to the UK... :) The black diadema? 'Orrible things.

I would have suggested the SAS Survival Handbook (Lofty Wiseman), but that postdates the Raleigh Chopper. I had a Striker.

Oh yes. But Tandy's cheaper tools are easier to get to the photos quick :)

Leatherworking is one of those crafts where the same tool seems to end up with multiple names - even between regions in the same country. Pictures are probably the easiest way to communicate. Groover, race or sometimes gouge: Double, screw or adjustable crease: V gouge: See...

You'll be lucky to find 440C scalpel & Stanley blades! One thing that needs emphasising (IMO) - none of these steels will perform well without a decent heat-treat. 440C is good, but out-of-fashion (and a lot of things labelled 440 are actually 440A). D2 is one that people either love or...

I've never worked out why geldings don't get a look-in on that one...

Remembering to take photos before getting the things out is not my forté, apparently... I'll see what I can do on that one - shouldn't be too difficult! (famous last words)

Er... Acrylics, quite thick in consistency, generally frowned upon by the higher-end airbrush users for that very reason; 2 ranges - AutoAir and Classic - of the two, AutoAir is supposed to be mechanically stronger, although I only use the classic ones. The classic are available in both opaque...

FWIW, I use Createx acrylics if I'm playing with polychrome. They require a moderately high pressure (relative to FW acrylic inks) through an airbrush due to the viscosity, but the opaque ones go on very cleanly, cover well & are surprisingly resilient.

You may be thinking of a crease rather than a groover here? A crease (single or double/adjustable) you heat - although you can do it cold - and use it to it displace & burnish a groove - whereas a groover or gouge removes a thin strip of leather.

Pricking irons are not a substitute for awls... They are to mark the leather (as with an overstitch wheel) , not to punch through it. (they're also too expensive to do that to them!) You're right about the groover & edger; you can use a pricking iron with a groover, but I don't bother...

I've got something similar, but it requires a PCB lightbox & developer to make the stencils. I use them with an electro-etch unit I built. Those sound interesting, particularly with the lack of developer needed.

Liberon black polish also works well for resist.

There's a traditional Japanese polishing brush made from horsehair - you get a large bundle (preferably tail, but I've made shorter ones with mane) and whip the length of the bundle with string. Then you use it to apply a pumice/water slurry to non-ferrous metals for a dull polish, particularly...

Go with Roger's kit list - shouldn't find there's too much different that you'll need. You'll have fun :)

Size 2 beveller is a good all-round choice; I use whatever stitch groover is handy; overstitch wheel - well, for starting off, I'd probably advocate a 5 (less sewing). It's appropriate to heavier-use goods, which a knife sheath probably will be. The standard Tandy-style stitch groovers are...

Yes, and yes. Not expensive, and some of the members-only articles are extremely good.