Chimney Sweeping.

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Pattree

Full Member
Jul 19, 2023
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Has anyone here swept a domestic chimney flu?

I’m happy using draining rods in a drain. I have to clear ours almost annually as there is a kink about ten metres in. I know to keep twisting clockwise.

But

I’m about to sweep our chimneys for the first time as our old sweep has retired.

We have crown tops on the pots above the stacks.
Both pots and stacks were re-pointed and haunched two years ago so the structure should be secure.

What might I have to look out for?
 
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Well it looks as if I shall have to do exactly that for the insurance company.

I shall document the process and hope.

The call out cost for the nearest accredited sweep is a none starter.
 
What might I have to look out for?

The sound of a pot smashing?

Ours is a simple job as there's an external door on the chimney and the pot is not capped.

Modern rods are far more flexible that old cane rods, worth using if your chimney has a few bends.
 
Brick flu circa 1928.
It has the usual bend to accelerate the flow.
The pots are ceramic and about two feet tall with points like a crown.

I’ll be using a modern soft bristle brush with a boss which is rounded above and below.
I’m hoping that the brush can hold the rods central in the flu as it goes up and down and that the rounded boss won’t catch in the brown.

Broch is right. It’s going to be all patience and no panic!
 
No, the grandchildren won’t fit and anyway they all want money!!!!

We had an owl come down the same chimney a month ago and it wasn’t too messy so we will prepare for the worst but expect better.

My Irish ancestors used to drop a live goose down their chimneys to clean them.
 
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A bunch of heather tied onto a rope with a boulder at the end. The boulder is dropped down the lum, rattling as it goes, and the heather is pulled through after.

Dreadful mess but a cleaned out lum :)
 
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Has anyone here swept a domestic chimney flu?

I’m happy using draining rods in a drain. I have to clear ours almost annually as there is a kink about ten metres in. I know to keep twisting clockwise.

But

I’m about to sweep our chimneys for the first time as our old sweep has retired.

We have crown tops on the pots above the stacks.
Both pots and stacks were re-pointed and haunched two years ago so the structure should be secure.

What might I have to look out for?
NOOOOAAAAAH! DON'T DO IT !
 
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As I'm a chimney sweep and stove installer I'd better answer! Sounds like you've got it about right. Drain rods, e.g. the blue ones, tend to be a bit too stiff but will do if there aren't any too tight bends. They won't really flex enough go thru a stove - tend to break the stove/pipe seal, even using a stovepipe soot door.

Your brush sounds ok, you need it to be fairly soft but needs to be bigger than the flue - brickwork chimneys tend to be 8 1/2 to 9inch across so you need a 13 inch brush to get the diagonals (but will still miss some). The softness also enables you to wind it around until small enough to go thru the pot at the top at least once.
The British Standard for sweeping (yes, really) is three passes, but if you've gone thru the pot once that is generally ok. Then 2 more up/downs without getting thru the pot. It is important to get it through once, otherwise you might think you are at the pot when it is actually a birds nest - one Sweep went to jail for failing to do this - several CO's deaths, due to birdsnest and probable compacting by the sweeps brush.

The key to getting around bends is to keep rotating clockwise with a bit of upwards force but not too much. Eventually the end will "walk" around the bend enough to continue sweeping. Ditto coming back down if it jams - often does. When you change direction to come back down inside the flue, the brush has to go from an upward arrow shape to a downward one. - Needs a pretty good pull to flex the bristles the other way, ditto getting back down the pot from outside, but pots very rarely come off.
Your kink at 10m is probably/normally where the chimney brickwork a) goes thru 45 degrees in the attic and also b) narrows and goes above the roof.
Take it easy, there's no rush.

I advise you not to use a vacuum, soot is very fine and clogs/burns out motors unless you got very fine filters, normal ones are usually not ok. Use anything, with a hole for the rod, across the fireplace, sealed up with masking tape. (Remember to put the first rod in and the brush on before you seal it up - Doh! How many times....)
Aftywards give it a knocking to shake off soot before opening up. Open up first only 1/3 at the top, sweep around the fireplace shelf and sides first, lots there. Partial opening improves draw/ reduces spillage. Get a bin bag, sides rolled down, open and ready below the fireplace to catch/put the soot/sand in. Gently pull the sheet down and fold it into itself to catch the dirty side, take it outside for a shake. Dig out the soot and sand etc from the fireplace with a soft handbrush and small shovel or garden trowel. Ditto empty ash pan. gently unroll bag sides, tie and dispose. Wood ash in the garden is fertiliser, smokeless ash goes in the bin or to keep weeds down on a path.

Finally, and most importantly, check the bloody CO alarm is up and working!!
Have a coffee and congratulate yourself.

I allow one and a half hours per sweep, and the going rate in Berkshire is generally £70/sweep. Birds nests are by the hour as sizes can vary enormously. My Pro sweep kit and Vacuum now cost over £5K and it's seasonal work. Rich I ain't!
 
As I'm a chimney sweep and stove installer I'd better answer! Sounds like you've got it about right. Drain rods, e.g. the blue ones, tend to be a bit too stiff but will do if there aren't any too tight bends. They won't really flex enough go thru a stove - tend to break the stove/pipe seal, even using a stovepipe soot door.

Your brush sounds ok, you need it to be fairly soft but needs to be bigger than the flue - brickwork chimneys tend to be 8 1/2 to 9inch across so you need a 13 inch brush to get the diagonals (but will still miss some). The softness also enables you to wind it around until small enough to go thru the pot at the top at least once.
The British Standard for sweeping (yes, really) is three passes, but if you've gone thru the pot once that is generally ok. Then 2 more up/downs without getting thru the pot. It is important to get it through once, otherwise you might think you are at the pot when it is actually a birds nest - one Sweep went to jail for failing to do this - several CO's deaths, due to birdsnest and probable compacting by the sweeps brush.

The key to getting around bends is to keep rotating clockwise with a bit of upwards force but not too much. Eventually the end will "walk" around the bend enough to continue sweeping. Ditto coming back down if it jams - often does. When you change direction to come back down inside the flue, the brush has to go from an upward arrow shape to a downward one. - Needs a pretty good pull to flex the bristles the other way, ditto getting back down the pot from outside, but pots very rarely come off.
Your kink at 10m is probably/normally where the chimney brickwork a) goes thru 45 degrees in the attic and also b) narrows and goes above the roof.
Take it easy, there's no rush.

I advise you not to use a vacuum, soot is very fine and clogs/burns out motors unless you got very fine filters, normal ones are usually not ok. Use anything, with a hole for the rod, across the fireplace, sealed up with masking tape. (Remember to put the first rod in and the brush on before you seal it up - Doh! How many times....)
Aftywards give it a knocking to shake off soot before opening up. Open up first only 1/3 at the top, sweep around the fireplace shelf and sides first, lots there. Partial opening improves draw/ reduces spillage. Get a bin bag, sides rolled down, open and ready below the fireplace to catch/put the soot/sand in. Gently pull the sheet down and fold it into itself to catch the dirty side, take it outside for a shake. Dig out the soot and sand etc from the fireplace with a soft handbrush and small shovel or garden trowel. Ditto empty ash pan. gently unroll bag sides, tie and dispose. Wood ash in the garden is fertiliser, smokeless ash goes in the bin or to keep weeds down on a path.

Finally, and most importantly, check the bloody CO alarm is up and working!!
Have a coffee and congratulate yourself.

I allow one and a half hours per sweep, and the going rate in Berkshire is generally £70/sweep. Birds nests are by the hour as sizes can vary enormously. My Pro sweep kit and Vacuum now cost over £5K and it's seasonal work. Rich I ain't!
Cracking answer!

Can I ask about bristle length.

I’ve got a chimney typhoon that I use for my wood burner. Metal tube lined up an existing chimney.

The bristle length is quite long so it can be quite a lot of friction to move it. I have contemplated cutting some of the bristles down to make it easier to move and just have more passes if needed. I feel it’s a bit of a one size fits all brush but just wondering what you think. I wouldn’t go too short to make sure ends of the bristles aren’t getting stuck.
 
That’s great @Falstaff . Thank you very much!
Yes, I can see myself with a taped up fire place and holding the brush in my hand!!

CO alarm tested every three months along with smoke alarms!
 
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I allow one and a half hours per sweep, and the going rate in Berkshire is generally £70/sweep. Birds nests are by the hour as sizes can vary enormously. My Pro sweep kit and Vacuum now cost over £5K and it's seasonal work. Rich I ain't!

Chimney sweeping over the winter months, colonoscopies through the warmer months? :D
 
Cracking answer!

Can I ask about bristle length.

I’ve got a chimney typhoon that I use for my wood burner. Metal tube lined up an existing chimney.

The bristle length is quite long so it can be quite a lot of friction to move it. I have contemplated cutting some of the bristles down to make it easier to move and just have more passes if needed. I feel it’s a bit of a one size fits all brush but just wondering what you think. I wouldn’t go too short to make sure ends of the bristles aren’t getting stuck.
Liner brush sizes are made for specific liner diameters, about 1/4-1/2 wider than the liner. So you have probably got the wrong size brush for your size liner.
The other thing that can vary is how stiff the actual bristles are, there is a grading. Stiffer ones are generally only needed if you are not burning properly and consequently getting tarring. If you've got a metal brush - chuck it ! Or will damage just about everything, liners are thin.
Either buy a new brush for your liner (measure it, most are either 6 inch or 5 inch dia) or have a go at trimming it down. It's not something I've tried to do. Suggest you get something the desired size, like a ring or pot/tube, to mark up/check the size as you trim.
Yes, more passes are good, if you pause after each push, and can still hear stuff coming down - keep sweeping. Eventually you hear very little or nowt = clean liner
 
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Chimney sweeping over the winter months, colonoscopies through the warmer months? :D
Dental flossing the hard way!

pee ess.
The chimney is drawing 40mm of water on a calm day. I’ll check again after I’ve swept it to be sure I haven’t done more harm than good. In a gale I can nearly play a tune with the front room door!
 
Dental flossing the hard way!

pee ess.
The chimney is drawing 40mm of water on a calm day. I’ll check again after I’ve swept it to be sure I haven’t done more harm than good. In a gale I can nearly play a tune with the front room door!
40mm? Doesn't sound right, that's nearly 400 Pascals, stoves run at 10-15 pa/20pa max. Unless you have a huge open chimney that's unlikely. Either way, air in =air out so a bit more draughtproofing or reducing air grilles (or the fireplace opening itself )should help.
 
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