using beeswax

[sniper 2]

i have just completed my rehandling project and now i need a sheath. i am determined to make it myself but would like it to be hard like my friends alan wood sheath. i have heard of using beeswax and can get hold of some easily but what do i do with it then? do i melt it in a pan or rub it in like on boots? thanks

dan

 

[JohnC]

I have an old cooking pot that I melt the wax in, then using tongs, dip the leather item in till its coated. The last thing I did was a knife case and it was dipped in and out for less than 20 seconds. It fizzes/foams up as the air or moisture (i suppose) is displaced.
Its a good idea to try a couple or so scraps of the same leather to see how they go after different immersion times. The leather can come out seeming still soft and harden up as it cools, if you leave it in too long it cooks and shrinks/hardens beyond use.
Also, very hot flammable wax is dangerous, so don't have the pan too full, do this outside, stable heat source etc. gloves and goggles, pets and kids out of range etc.

 

[Eric_Methven]

I'd recommend using a double boiler to melt the wax. That is a pan with the wax, inside another bigger pan with boiling water. Dip the finished sheath for just long enough until the bubbles stop. Then remove it and give it a rub with a couple of kitchen towels. This will remove excess wax and give a nice smooth finish to the sheath. Once cooled it will be hard to the touch. You can then use ordinary boot polish on it and buff it to a high shine.

If, when you insert your knife you find it doesn't fit, reheat the sheath in a hot oven for a few minutes. This will soften the wax and allow you to insert your knife and remould as necessary. Any wax imparted to your knife during this stage can easily be avoided by wrapping the knife in clingfilm first.

Also, as it is not a vessel for foodstuffs, normal candle wax may be used instead.

Eric

 

[Longstrider]

I've found it often helps to pre-heat the leather item before dipping it into the molten wax. If it's too cold when you dip it, the wax simply "freezes" onto the surface and does not penetrate too well unless you hold it in the wax for long enough for it to come up to a similar temperature to the wax which may ultimately damage the leather (as the wax tends to be hotter than you might imagine). I cheat and use SWMBO's hair-dryer to heat the leather up before dipping. Don't over-do the pre-heating or that too will damage the leather. It's a trial and error thing, so you're best to experiment with a few scraps of similar leather before you set to work on a nicely finished sheath.

 

[shep]

I've been doing some experimenting with this. I found straight beeswax, melted, painted on then warmed in the oven for a few minutes made the leather harder than my taste.

If you mix olive oil with your melted beeswax, it penetrates better, but doesn't harden as much. I have had success with 60 oil: 40 beeswax. It makes the leather water-resistant, harder and darker, but still supple. Have an experiment yourself and post any discoveries!

 

[w00dsmoke]

I have been using some very thin veg tanned leather to make various small pouches -from a tick hook carrier for the dogs collar to a moulded coin purse for the good ladies handbag. I've melted the beeswax on the bbq and painted it on using an old brush and then in addition to this have used a hairdrier to totally infuse the leather with wax. I have found that even with this done, on thin leather (even moulded leather) it does not go hard, sure it stiffens up a wee bit but it's still fairly soft.

Am I right in saying that the leather has to be quite thick (at least as thick as you would need for a bottle or sheath) in order for it to toughen up with the wax or am I doing something wrong?

 

[Eric_Methven]

I have been using some very thin veg tanned leather to make various small pouches -from a tick hook carrier for the dogs collar to a moulded coin purse for the good ladies handbag. I've melted the beeswax on the bbq and painted it on using an old brush and then in addition to this have used a hairdrier to totally infuse the leather with wax. I have found that even with this done, on thin leather (even moulded leather) it does not go hard, sure it stiffens up a wee bit but it's still fairly soft.

Am I right in saying that the leather has to be quite thick (at least as thick as you would need for a bottle or sheath) in order for it to toughen up with the wax or am I doing something wrong?

You're not doing anything wrong. The hardness/stiffness achieved is in direct proportion to the thickness of the leather.

Eric

 

[w00dsmoke]

Thank you master craftsman! :You_Rock_

 

[sniper 2]

thanks for all the replies. i will definately be using this method. would it work using a gas stove and a messtin? would the messtin be ruined? my parents might object to me doing this inside and using their good pans. cheers

dan

 

[Eric_Methven]

If it's just for a sheath Dan, I wouldn't spoil a messtin. You'll have a hell of a job removing the wax afterward. For a sheath, I'd just use a tinfoil tray after you've eaten the beef curry from the local Chinese restaurant. You know the type, long and narrow where they put a paper lid on and crimp the sides over.

Get a turkey roasting tin and put that on the gas stove with about an inch of water in it. Place the tinfoil tray in it with enough blocks of beeswax to fill three quarters of it. If it floats around, place a pan lid over it to weigh it down. Boil the water then turn it down to a fast simmer. Put the kettle on and keep it standing by. Wax takes a while to melt so keep topping up the turkey tray with water from the boiling kettle. Don't let the tray boil dry.

Once the wax has completely melted (no white lumps left), remove the tray from the water onto some sheets of newspaper nearby. Wear rubber gloves throughout. Take your sheath and immerse it in the wax. If it can go in completely, fine otherwise you may have to do it in two halves. leave it in the wax for half a minute, or until the bubbles stop whichever is sooner.

Remove from the wax and wipe the excess off with a paper kitchen towel (don't use toilet roll as it sticks to the wax and makes a right mess). If the sheath is too long, dip one half, wipe off, turn it around then do the other half, then wipe again.

The sheath should dry, cool and harden in about half an hour. If there is a milky deposit of wax left on it, reheat the sheath in a warm oven and wipe off with more kitchen towel.

Once it's cold, slap some boot polish on like you were polishing your boots, and brush vigorously. The underlying wax will give an immediate high gloss polished finish.

Allow the wax to solidify in the tinfoil tray and either leave it there for next time, ir you can just tear the tray away to leave a large block of beeswax.

Let us know how you manage.

Eric

 

[reddeath]

this would be good for a pictorial 'how to ' thread ?