TBS Grizzly MkII.....should i buy one?

[TheLucas]

Hi all

I am new to the forum and wanted to ask if anyone owns or has had experience with a TBS Grizzly Knife? I know that TBS has the MkII out now and that would be the blade am i looking at.

Thanks in advance for any reply's

Lucas

 

[Polecatsteve]

Own and use a tbs boar folder. If it's essentially a fixed blade version ye why not. Sturdy knives.

 

[KenThis]

I have a grizzly. I love it.

It's heavy and solid and fits my big hand very well.
It's very very good for batoning and heavier tasks.
I can use it for everything I do.
It's not much of a whittler, though that may be a bad craftsman blaming his tools.

 

[beachlover]

I have to say that having looked at it, I prefer the slimmer Wolverine, but if you are looking at around £150 you might do better to keep an eye out for something from some of the makers on here and BB or those that come up pre-owned for a very similar outlay.

 

[DocG]

Have you seen the Aurochs knife on the forum? That's a good knife IMHO and maybe "nicer" than one from a shop. Just my 2d worth.

 

[Idleknight]

I would suggest visiting the store or a show and to hold one.
I tried it, but ended up getting a wolverine as I preferred how it was in my hand

 

[baggins]

While i don't have any experience of the Grizzly, i do have one of their EDC Boar folders, and the build and design is excellent. i really do like it and (if i didn't already have a lovely knife) would seriously consider buying one of their fixed blades.

 

[Simon1]

I also have a grizzly, its a big boy, hair shaving sharp, maybe more a camp knife than a bushcrafter, but solid built never the less........

 

[Simon1]

 

[TheLucas]

Hi and thanks for the info....I am looking for a real work horse of a knife, i don't do much in the way off fine work so a solid knife that can manage a bit chopping and batoning, the most fiddly work i would do is feather sticks.

 

[Leshy]

A solid camp knife that can manage chopping and battoning ?

Save yourself a ton and get a Morakniv ....

Robust or companion, they all do what you mentioned and they can be had for £10 to £20 ..

👍

 

[Simon1]

I'd go for a grizzly if you fancy one!! I like my curly birch one so much I'm looking to buy the macarta version...... if you get the curly birch remember to soak that scales in boiled linseed or they may lift slightly.....but I love mine!!!

 

[Bluebs4]

looks like a good honest tool

 

[TheLucas]

I'd go for a grizzly if you fancy one!! I like my curly birch one so much I'm looking to buy the macarta version...... if you get the curly birch remember to soak that scales in boiled linseed or they may lift slightly.....but I love mine!!!

Thanks for the reply, I am really liking the Turkish walnut....would you recommend doing the same with the linseed oil on the walnut?


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[TheLucas]

A solid camp knife that can manage chopping and battoning ?

Save yourself a ton and get a Morakniv ....

Robust or companion, they all do what you mentioned and they can be had for £10 to £20 ..

👍

Yeah I totally get what your saying, and I do have a few Mora's, but I want something that has the looks as well as "bang per buck" performance.


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[KenThis]

I used tung oil on my Turkish walnut grizzly, very similar to linseed and worked a treat.

 

[TheLucas]

I used tung oil on my Turkish walnut grizzly, very similar to linseed and worked a treat.

Great, what method did you use to apply the Tung Oil?


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[KenThis]

I warmed the tung oil in a 'bain marie' (like melting chocolate) with boiling water.
I spent some time researching flash points and ignition temps to make sure it would be safe I suggest you do the same.
I warmed the knife in our very warm airing cupboard. (I had asked for an unfinished knife handle)
I used clean old cotton t shirt to rub warm oil into handle. I spent some time doing this.
I wiped off excess oil and left for 20 mins. then came back and double wiped any further excess and gave a bit of a buff.
I left somewhere warm for a few days and repeated as necessary approx 4-5 coats suited me.

Tung oil doesn't dry it cures (like pure linseed) I read that it will actually take a long time to fully cure in the handle but have found the outer layer stops being tacky and is usable after a day or so.

I'm not sure this is the best way to be honest.
If I'd had more than the small amount of tung oil gifted to me I would have probably heated the oil and soaked the knife in it for a few hours or over night to maximise absorption and minimise the faff of reapplication.

Please understand the above method works for me and was what I came up with after a fair amount of online research. But I make no promises that this is the best way to do it or even the correct way to do it. However this method did work for me and I do like the finish very much.

Please do some more researching and ask more experienced users before attempting.
Best of luck.

EDIT. PS rags soaked in tung oil or linseed oil are supposed to be able to spontaneously combust as they cure. Please be careful how you store/dispose of them.

 

[TheLucas]

I warmed the tung oil in a 'bain marie' (like melting chocolate) with boiling water.
I spent some time researching flash points and ignition temps to make sure it would be safe I suggest you do the same.
I warmed the knife in our very warm airing cupboard. (I had asked for an unfinished knife handle)
I used clean old cotton t shirt to rub warm oil into handle. I spent some time doing this.
I wiped off excess oil and left for 20 mins. then came back and double wiped any further excess and gave a bit of a buff.
I left somewhere warm for a few days and repeated as necessary approx 4-5 coats suited me.

Tung oil doesn't dry it cures (like pure linseed) I read that it will actually take a long time to fully cure in the handle but have found the outer layer stops being tacky and is usable after a day or so.

I'm not sure this is the best way to be honest.
If I'd had more than the small amount of tung oil gifted to me I would have probably heated the oil and soaked the knife in it for a few hours or over night to maximise absorption and minimise the faff of reapplication.

Please understand the above method works for me and was what I came up with after a fair amount of online research. But I make no promises that this is the best way to do it or even the correct way to do it. However this method did work for me and I do like the finish very much.

Please do some more researching and ask more experienced users before attempting.
Best of luck.

EDIT. PS rags soaked in tung oil or linseed oil are supposed to be able to spontaneously combust as they cure. Please be careful how you store/dispose of them.

Wow that's quiet the process, and thank you for sharing the info. I shall have to do a wee bit more research.


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