Leather working

[w00dsmoke]

Hi folks,

I've been practicing some leather working for a wee while now, nothing fancy just basic non moulded sheaths for billhooks and wee pouches with eyelets and press studs. Now I've started to experiment with some of the other tools that acheive a nice effect like stitch groovers and edge bevellers. The problem I have , is that I bought an old looking rough half shoulder very cheaply of 1.6mm that is veg tanned for practicing on and the problem I have is setting up a stitch groover, I cannot get it to work without skooing off to the side or the leather slipping.

Does anyone know what angle to set the groover up at and have they any tips on how to use it on thinnner leather?

 

[chas brookes]

Hi Woodsmoke
i am at about the same position in my leatherwork as you. I had a box of leather scraps to practice on and found the same as you the stitch groover does not like thin leather. I use mine at about 45 degrees but it only seems to work on leather that is thicker than 2mm. Did you get the leatherwork book okay .
I am just about to start to attempt a possibles pouch in 3mm, but have got to make the form first for wet forming.
All the practice is good it gives you a good sense of acheivement when it finally works.
Chas

 

[w00dsmoke]

Hi Woodsmoke
i am at about the same position in my leatherwork as you. I had a box of leather scraps to practice on and found the same as you the stitch groover does not like thin leather. I use mine at about 45 degrees but it only seems to work on leather that is thicker than 2mm. Did you get the leatherwork book okay .
I am just about to start to attempt a possibles pouch in 3mm, but have got to make the form first for wet forming.
All the practice is good it gives you a good sense of acheivement when it finally works.
Chas

cheers bud,

Yes I bought the Stohlman book for $10 on ebay and it's good but to be fair it's not that informative on the techniques of using the tools... for example it says just "use the stitch groover..." but does not show you how to... on the other hand tips on preparing a thread are invaluable!

Personally I love using the thin leather for small pouches etc. I found that on ebay for the usa you can get leather stamps very very cheaply and far better than anything that is available over here.

I found that by buying the basics I can do quite a lot with very little if you see what I mean?

I adjustable stitch groover
Selection of needles
Selection of thread
Cheap leather punch for couple of quid at the local market
Scalpels
Edge beveller
Gum tragacanth
Resolene
Beeswax
Sail eyes
Press studs
A couple of celtic stamps


Old leather bags, skirts/jackets to practice on and to remove brass buckles etc to reuse.

 

[chas brookes]

likewise i bought most of my tools from US the other book by Stohlman that Leon recommended was the Art of Making Leather Cases Volume One which is very good.
It has a lot of good advice on making various cases and use of tools.

Chas

 

[singteck]

Just as well the stitch groover does not work on thin leather, it's not really adviceable since you end up with a very weak section if you grooved out too much leather.

If you want to mark the leather for stitching, then use a divider to draw the line. If you want to groove the leather for decoration, then use an adjustable crease.

Good luck

singteck

 

[Eric_Methven]

I would agree with the above. It's not a good idea to use a stitch groover on thin leather. Use a stitch wheel instead on dampened leather. Keep the groover for use on thicker stuff where it won't weaken it so much.

Eric

 

[w00dsmoke]

Thanks lads your tips and advice are much appreciated! :You_Rock_

 

[JonnyP]

Interesting......I know nothing about leather, other than its useful stuff.... I want to get into making some leather sheafs and masks, I have some leather on order from the group buy.....I am thinking I can just bend it into shape, drill a load of holes with my trusty makita and sew them up....Can I do this ok with ordinary tools, or do I need these special leather tools.....?

 

[singteck]

You don't need lots of tools but they do help to make it faster or neater. Basic tools are needles (any type as long as they can take the thread you want to use and are blunt), threads and an awl (any type but make sure it doesn't make too big a hole)

Marking for the stitches can be done with a ruler and pen. You would already have a knife to cut the leather. Other then that, some sandpaper to finish the edges.

singteck

 

[Eric_Methven]

Interesting......I know nothing about leather, other than its useful stuff.... I want to get into making some leather sheafs and masks, I have some leather on order from the group buy.....I am thinking I can just bend it into shape, drill a load of holes with my trusty makita and sew them up....Can I do this ok with ordinary tools, or do I need these special leather tools.....?

Yes Jon, you can bend it, but you need to wet it first (wetting it makes it floppy and easy to work with.) You can use anything sharp and pointy to make the stitching holes, and a Stanley knife will cut it to shape no problem. You'll need two needles to do the stitching, one on either end of the thread. You should wax the thread as it makes it so much stronger. Beeswax is best, but failing that, run the thread hard over a candle so it cuts into the wax. Look up 'saddle stitch' to see the technique.

Once the sheath is made, wet it once more if it has dried out. Cover your knife blade with clingfilm to protect it and push it into the sheath. Form the sheath round the contours of the knife (known as wet forming), and allow the sheath to dry. Remove the knife and if you want a waterproof sheath, dip it in melted wax, otherwise just whack loads of boot polish on it and buff it up.

Hope this helps,

Eric

 

[JonnyP]

Yes Jon, you can bend it, but you need to wet it first (wetting it makes it floppy and easy to work with.) You can use anything sharp and pointy to make the stitching holes, and a Stanley knife will cut it to shape no problem. You'll need two needles to do the stitching, one on either end of the thread. You should wax the thread as it makes it so much stronger. Beeswax is best, but failing that, run the thread hard over a candle so it cuts into the wax. Look up 'saddle stitch' to see the technique.

Once the sheath is made, wet it once more if it has dried out. Cover your knife blade with clingfilm to protect it and push it into the sheath. Form the sheath round the contours of the knife (known as wet forming), and allow the sheath to dry. Remove the knife and if you want a waterproof sheath, dip it in melted wax, otherwise just whack loads of boot polish on it and buff it up.

Hope this helps,

Eric

That sure does help, thanks Eric, I will put up the photo's once done.....What is usually used for the stitching thread.....?

 

[Eric_Methven]

What is usually used for the stitching thread.....?

I usually use linen thread, but strong cotton will do for starters. Linen is much stronger as it is a 'long fiber' material while cotton is a 'short fiber'. Of course you can go with a good polycotton, but if it's thin, maybe consider doubling it up.

You'll also need a pair of pliers. These are used to pull the needles through the holes you've made. The first 100 stitches are OK, but then the blisters on your fingertips are so painful you'll need the pliers to pull them through. If the needles go through easily, the holes are too big.

Eric

 

[Pipistrelle]

cheers bud,

Yes I bought the Stohlman book for $10 on ebay and it's good but to be fair it's not that informative on the techniques of using the tools... for example it says just "use the stitch groover..." but does not show you how to... on the other hand tips on preparing a thread are invaluable!

Personally I love using the thin leather for small pouches etc. I found that on ebay for the usa you can get leather stamps very very cheaply and far better than anything that is available over here.

I found that by buying the basics I can do quite a lot with very little if you see what I mean?

I adjustable stitch groover
Selection of needles
Selection of thread
Cheap leather punch for couple of quid at the local market
Scalpels
Edge beveller
Gum tragacanth
Resolene
Beeswax
Sail eyes
Press studs
A couple of celtic stamps


Old leather bags, skirts/jackets to practice on and to remove brass buckles etc to reuse.

When using your stitch groover don't forget to dampen your leather a bit It makes life a lot easier, concentrate on the angle of the handle and following the edge the grroove takes care of itself. When you get to corners take care not to overcut and try and keep one cut going ie end with one leather thread. I find once you have set your groover use it to put a small (just noticeable depression) on each change of direction so you know wher to straighten up your groover to change direction. Keep it sharp or it will bugger up your work.

And don't press to hard on the damp edges and bevel after grooving.

I hope that helps!

 

[w00dsmoke]

That's great Pip, Thanks

just one more thing, how do you sharpen the groover?


WS

 

[Pipistrelle]

Very carefully, using some ver fine wet and dry paper wrapped around a flat peice of 4mm leather and follow the curve carefully, a stroke or two will usually do! Then remove sandpaper and a couple of strokes on the leather (oposite to cutting direction). Seems to work fine.


If you are worried about over sharpening, then use a marker pen (i find red best because if you don't remove it all and mark your work brown dye will cover it just fine.) on the cutting edge to check if you are getting the angle correct.

I agree with Eric on the thread linen and beeswax is best, I am slightly lazier and use and autostitch awl and a needle its easier on the old fingers.

 

[ika a Whiro]

Hi folks,

I've been practicing some leather working for a wee while now, nothing fancy just basic non moulded sheaths for billhooks and wee pouches with eyelets and press studs. Now I've started to experiment with some of the other tools that acheive a nice effect like stitch groovers and edge bevellers. The problem I have , is that I bought an old looking rough half shoulder very cheaply of 1.6mm that is veg tanned for practicing on and the problem I have is setting up a stitch groover, I cannot get it to work without skooing off to the side or the leather slipping.

Does anyone know what angle to set the groover up at and have they any tips on how to use it on thinnner leather?

are you heating it up with a flame?

 

[w00dsmoke]

No heat at all.

By the way folks, thanks for all the advice it's fantastic.

cheers

WS

 

[ESpy]

are you heating it up with a flame?

You may be thinking of a crease rather than a groover here?

A crease (single or double/adjustable) you heat - although you can do it cold - and use it to it displace & burnish a groove - whereas a groover or gouge removes a thin strip of leather.

 

[ika a Whiro]

You may be thinking of a crease rather than a groover here?

A crease (single or double/adjustable) you heat - although you can do it cold - and use it to it displace & burnish a groove - whereas a groover or gouge removes a thin strip of leather.

Thats called a "v" gauge then, a "crease" is the stitching crease.

To sharpen the "v" gauge I use a length of heavy grade thread rubbed with jewelers rouge.


Did I mention I am a saddler back home?

 

[ESpy]

Leatherworking is one of those crafts where the same tool seems to end up with multiple names - even between regions in the same country. Pictures are probably the easiest way to communicate.

Groover, race or sometimes gouge:

Double, screw or adjustable crease:

V gouge:

See what I mean?

Personally, I've started calling all of my tools "Boris" to save on the confusion. Having a full set of saddlery tools - mostly Dixons - means I have an awful lot of Borises there.

Oh, and using rouge on a thread like that to polish is called "thrumming" in jewellery...