Hazel sticks and the like...

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Nice65

Brilliant!
Apr 16, 2009
6,519
2,933
W.Sussex
Just to comment on the original question re cutting where it spurs off. Don't. When cutting a branch, cutting it flush with the trunk is not a good idea, and the tree doesn't like it. You want to cut a few inches off the main trunk, and at an angle so that any rain runs off the cut surface, and doesn't pool where it may cause rot/mould.

HTH

J

Due to the up and down vessels of the tree, xylem and phloem, flush cuts break into these. 45 degree undercut to carefully meet the vertical stem used to be the general idea.

Scrape the bark off a log or stick and you'll see the way the wood wraps around. It's sort of intuitive where the tree builds strength. It varies, as does nature, conifers often build strength above the branch. But they're not stick trees anyway.
 

Quixoticgeek

Full Member
Aug 4, 2013
2,483
23
Europe
Due to the up and down vessels of the tree, xylem and phloem, flush cuts break into these. 45 degree undercut to carefully meet the vertical stem used to be the general idea.

That's the one. I couldn't remember the exact names of the bits that you cut into, didn't want to make a mistake, so didn't go into too much detail, but yes, Flush cuts bad.

Been studying this at college recently.

J
 

QDanT

Settler
Mar 16, 2006
933
5
Yorkshire England
Thanks for posting that. I think now, that's what I've got, or at least, getting. Not quite as tight a grip on this one though, not as much compression on the wood but still good. Did you make yours? Any secrets to impart-process etc. e.g. how do you get the bark off the vine without touching the stick etc?

thanks

Tom.

Yes, found it growing on Arnside Knott while out on a hlke ;)
I'd straighten yours now by heating it, hot air gun, steam gun, capped pipe boiling water ?
then trap it straight with nails either side into a plank of wood and allow to cool then dry out.
I leave my sticks in the shed for a few months before working on them. You'll probably find the
Honeysuckle dries out first and will no longer grip the Hazel. I then scrape and sand the bark off
the Honeysuckle and re attatch it with two part Epoxy resin and small brass screws and cup washers
IMG_20160129_175224_zpsz4q8j3qr.jpg

The Honeysuckle on mine did this where it hadn't squeezed into the Hazel as much
8x6%202_zpsojsspqlm.jpg~original


8x6%203_zpsrsirfmxl.jpg~original


8x6%201a_zpsvgvgwfun.jpg~original

I drilled the top and the Antler and joined them with a piece of threded rod Epoxied in and copper plumbing
fittings on the bottom with a rubber walking stick ferrule
end1_zpsbznlllh3.jpg~original


end2_zpshjb3wq8t.jpg~original


end3_zpsg3zh5kyg.jpg~original
 

Tomteifi

Nomad
Jan 22, 2016
294
16
Carmarthenshire, South Wales
A lovely walking stick, well done. You must have been as pleased as me when you found yours. The 1930's wren farthing is a very nice touch too. I want to use mine as a combined walker and wading stick for river fishing, so the bottom will have a stainless steel spike and a bit of hidden lead to add weight(yikes!!) Might put a horn/antler thumb grip on top-not decided yet. Great tips about the honeysuckle, that will make it much easier to strip all its bark off and save the hazel-do it when it loosens and comes off-great! I notice we've both got 7 turns on the hazel-very lucky indeed me thinks!! I'll be cutting off about 18" or so at the thick end(which is on the carpet in my photo) and am thinking of putting two opposing adder snakes meeting in the middle, designs on it-1 male, 1 female. Slightly different markings as you probably know and yes, it will be a labour of love but worth it I feel. Going to finish/protect it with Flexcoat; an American flexible fishing rod epoxy I've used before, really strong stuff, wont break or flake. Many thanks for your time, photos, tips and interest.

cheers

Tom.:)
 

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