Falkniven f1 with scandi grind

[TheGreenMan]

I am enjoying using them, Shinken, and have been for a couple of months or so.

Amongst other things, I've been using them to regrind the convex of the F1 (keeping it convex). It's amazing what the removal, of, what can be no more than a few microns of metal from the thickness of a blade can do for its performance, All very interesting.

Cheers,
Paul.

 

[maddave]

I actually like my Fallkniven F1 I have a Bison Bushcraft, Lapp Puukko, Frosts Mora and another scandi of unknown origin and in my opinion the F1 is as good as the others for most tasks. Like Red said though, if I'm food prepping I love the mora (thinner blade). I have small hands too and the F1 just "fits". Held a woodlore once and it was like holding a baseball bat. Too thick in the blade and the scales for me but to each their own I suppose.

 

[TheGreenMan]

My instincts are now following those who cautioned against regrinding the F1 with a Nordic type (flat) grind on this thread:
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27086

Having thinned out the convex on an F1 and S1, I would also caution against that, if you work with seasoned hard wood frequently. You’ll be spending a lot of time removing the chips from the edge if you take the thinning too far. The good folks at Fällkniven know what they’re doing. The micro bevel is there for a reason

I think the 'bottom line' is buy an F1, learn to use it, and if it’s not suited to what you need a knife for, then buy some other knife…sounds like the perfect excuse, as if you needed one.

Cheers,
Paul.

 

[Shinken]

As a side note, your S1 will be finished soon mate!

 

[TheGreenMan]

That news has quickened my heartbeat somewhat, Shinkey. Been wondering how it's been taking shape

Cheers mate,
Paul.

 

[demographic]

<Don's Nomex undercrackers>

What exactly is it that people are struggling to do with the F1?

Use it? Or sharpen it?
No chance its a technique thing (or lack thereof) and not a failing of the knife design anyway?

 

[robevs73]

reprofile the edge with a 20 degre secondry bevel and the f1 will cut like a dream . half hours work on various grit stones is all it will take, trust me

 

[V4V]

reprofile the edge with a 20 degre secondry bevel and the f1 will cut like a dream . half hours work on various grit stones is all it will take, trust me

Phew! glad someone else has done that, too - I was starting to think that I had made some sort of sharpening gaffe!

I did this a few months ago and have had great results with it. I just used a DC4 to reprofile it and keep it ast the same angle for the new secondaty bevel. I use the F1 for pretty much everything (food prep, battening, carving, genreal camp tasks).

I also agree with an earlier posts that the F1 is primarily a suvival knive, rather than a bush craft knife. I am a pretty clumsy person and having a relitavely cheap knife that is very hard to break is nicely reassuring.

 

[Siberianfury]

Lets not forget what the F1 is and was designed for, as a compact survival knife, designed to do any job from splitting logs to breaking glass, its a true allrounder as opposed to a high performance knife, designed to not let you down in the toughest conditions, everything about the design from the handle, to the steel to the grind is about strength and durability.... its a survival knife, not a bushcraft knife.

 

[FGYT]

Lets not forget what the F1 is and was designed for, as a compact survival knife, designed to do any job from splitting logs to breaking glass, its a true allrounder as opposed to a high performance knife, designed to not let you down in the toughest conditions, everything about the design from the handle, to the steel to the grind is about strength and durability.... its a survival knife, not a bushcraft knife.

Lets not forget the question was asked in 2006 and hes probably made a desicion by now okenest:

ATB

Duncan

 

[JonathanD]

Good grief, I remember this thread. Can't believe it was four years ago. Back then I was firmly in the scandi grind is the be all and end all and only grind for me club. How times have changed, I now predominently use a full flat grind or convex with secondary bevel. Still have and love my scandis, but I find maintenance and sharpening of the full flat, quicker, easier and less messy.

If you told me I'd be saying that in four years time, I'da slapped ya

 

[John Fenna]

It is good to see the old threads still have life in them!
I recntly aquired an F1 to see what all the fuss was about - and found it an excellent knife, great for all sorts of tasks and needing no alteration at all to perform everything from food prep to woodcarving, battoning to feather-stick making. I even find the grip reasonably comfortable The plasic sheath looks horrible but does its job well.
Other grinds may be better for carving or foodprep and other handles may feel and look nicer - but this litle beaut was designed to do them all and be as tough as all-get-out - with a tough, low profile slip resistant grip - and achieves is design brief to the full!

 

[wentworth]

This thread's still alive? Wowsers.
I love my F1. I now prefer a flat or convex grind for most things. I still have a love of my old beat up mora #1 which is zero ground.

 

[sumguy197]

hi was just wondering how easy is the f1 to sharpen because although people are very posotive about it I've never heard anyone mention sharpening

 

[jungle_re]

peice of cake. Equally easy to do on stones by slighty rolling your hands when using the stone or using wet and dry or micromesh on the back of the mousemat normally very easily to get a razor edge with minimal practice

 

[Stew]

People seem to worry about sharpening convex grinds when they've been used to sharpening scandi grinds. I think that a convex is the easiest to sharpen as it's not so critical what angle you hold at on each stroke. For a scandi grind, you have to use the same angle every stroke or you will have multiple bevels.