Enzo Trapper in D2 - my first full tang

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Siberianfury

Native
Jan 1, 1970
1,534
6
mendip hills, somerset
Here is my first full tang knife project, its an enzo trapper blade in D2 with scandi grinds, the scales are birch darkend with danish oil. I made it from a basic trapper kit with the plain scales, blade and corby bolts.
im very impressed with this steel so far, it takes the sharpest edge of any knife ive used and holds it for a ridiculous ammount of time. i origionaly ordered the O1 version ages ago, but they sent D2 insted, not complaining.

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i have heard some horror stories about D2 chipping, so if anyone has any first hand experience with this steel i would be glad to hear it.
 

johnnythefox

Full Member
Mar 11, 2011
1,015
4
England
nice job, i am so glad i bought mine.
your handle looks longer unless you have a smaller hand?
try chopping with it its :yikes: good at it.
 

decorum

Full Member
May 2, 2007
5,064
12
Warwickshire
i have heard some horror stories about D2 chipping, so if anyone has any first hand experience with this steel i would be glad to hear it.

I use a D2 Trapper. I haven't had any chipping*~ and it's flat rather than Scandi. It might also have helped that I've convexed the edge :yikes: .



* Says he, touching various wooden objects :lmao: .
 

Siberianfury

Native
Jan 1, 1970
1,534
6
mendip hills, somerset
ive been testing it out today, bloody hell this thing bites into wood better than my PT puukko, the edge is slightly toothyer than 01 because of the large carbides, after feathersticks, battoning hazel and a load of powercuts and notches its still easily sharp enough to feather a hair, its ridiculous.
ive added a microbevel just to make sure the edge doesnt chip, ive heard that D2 steel is designed as a punch steel, to cut out other steel, so i dount i will have any problems.
although, sharpening might be an issue for those who dont have ceramics.

one thing that somwhat got on my nerves was that the grinds where ueven by around .2 mm, this has however not effected the performance and mabye even helped increase bite for a right handled user.

as far as i know the hardness is 61HRC
 

Xunil

Settler
Jan 21, 2006
671
3
56
North East UK
www.bladesmith.co.uk
You did really good work on that one - D2 is one of my all time favourites and if folks would stop following the latest fashion and fad with the various so-called 'super steels' and just got on with buying and using high performing knives made from readily available steel we'd all be happier.

D2 can chip out at higher hardness but the same can be said for any steel - this is usually down to torsion (sideways) stress. As a slicing knife steel the only strike against it is that many folks just can't sharpen it properly, but that could also be said for most of the stainless steels as well. D2 is not as tough as some steels though, which is possibly where the reputation for chipping comes from.

The only knives I commission from other makers are in 2mm to 3.2mm D2 and provided you can get your sharpening up to muster it's tough to find a better steel for a slicing knife. It just keeps on cutting, and cutting, and...

:D

None of my D2 knives have ever chipped or dinged out, but I only use them for slicing so perhaps that is no surprise.

Bob Dozier's D2 knives are legendary and, as far as I know, his shop does not (or did not) use a cryo cycle. Maybe they do these days but up until a year or so ago I'm pretty sure I heard or read somewhere that they did not use sub-zero - Bob's knives are very thin at the edge though, which is more than half the battle when slicing...

Cons ?

It's a pig to work (tough as hell on grinding belts), tricky to heat treat well (dead easy to heat treat wrong though ;)) and due to end-user perception it is largely ignored as an option when it should really be at or near the top of the list for many kinds of knives.

Chris Reeve started out making his infamous machined-from-a-bar hollow handled knives in D2 and probably only moved to A2 when his machinery started throwing a wobbly working overtime in the process. A fringe benefit of being more profitable to produce in A2 was the much higher toughness A2 offers over D2. I'm starting to sound like a Star Wars script...

Learn to sharpen it properly and you'll probably never want to use anything else. Fail to learn how to sharpen it properly and you'll never want to try it again.

Operator error never seems to enter discussions on the various merits of blade steels though. Normally all you hear is "it's crap - doesn't take a decent edge"...

:)

I don't give a fig about fads and fashions in steel and there isn't anyone I know who could reliably identify any steels other than perhaps D2, O1, possibly 12C27 and maybe 1090 when using them. The differences would mainly be detectable during sharpening for O1, 12C27 and 1090 and only by someone who knows exactly what they are looking for while the 'bite' of D2 is pretty easy to pick out from the crown in use.

My point is that you could shove a dozen knives from a dozen steels in the hands of the most experienced user and unless you told them what they were made from most folks wouldn't see too many differences.

Now that I've just offended everybody, I'll get my coat.

D2 - I'm a big fan, and I'd confidently put it against many of the currently in vogue steels without hesitation.

Nice job.
 
Last edited:

Siberianfury

Native
Jan 1, 1970
1,534
6
mendip hills, somerset
You did really good work on that one - D2 is one of my all time favourites and if folks would stop following the latest fashion and fad with the various so-called 'super steels' and just got on with buying and using high performing knives made from readily available steel we'd all be happier.

D2 can chip out at higher hardness but the same can be said for any steel - this is usually down to torsion (sideways) stress. As a slicing knife steel the only strike against it is that many folks just can't sharpen it properly, but that could also be said for most of the stainless steels as well. D2 is not as tough as some steels though, which is possibly where the reputation for chipping comes from.

The only knives I commission from other makers are in 2mm to 3.2mm D2 and provided you can get your sharpening up to muster it's tough to find a better steel for a slicing knife. It just keeps on cutting, and cutting, and...

:D

None of my D2 knives have ever chipped or dinged out, but I only use them for slicing so perhaps that is no surprise.

Bob Dozier's D2 knives are legendary and, as far as I know, his shop does not (or did not) use a cryo cycle. Maybe they do these days but up until a year or so ago I'm pretty sure I heard or read somewhere that they did not use sub-zero - Bob's knives are very thin at the edge though, which is more than half the battle when slicing...

Cons ?

It's a pig to work (tough as hell on grinding belts), tricky to heat treat well (dead easy to heat treat wrong though ;)) and due to end-user perception it is largely ignored as an option when it should really be at or near the top of the list for many kinds of knives.

Chris Reeve started out making his infamous machined-from-a-bar hollow handled knives in D2 and probably only moved to A2 when his machinery started throwing a wobbly working overtime in the process. A fringe benefit of being more profitable to produce in A2 was the much higher toughness A2 offers over D2. I'm starting to sound like a Star Wars script...

Learn to sharpen it properly and you'll probably never want to use anything else. Fail to learn how to sharpen it properly and you'll never want to try it again.

Operator error never seems to enter discussions on the various merits of blade steels though. Normally all you hear is "it's crap - doesn't take a decent edge"...

:)

I don't give a fig about fads and fashions in steel and there isn't anyone I know who could reliably identify any steels other than perhaps D2, O1, possibly 12C27 and maybe 1090 when using them. The differences would mainly be detectable during sharpening for O1, 12C27 and 1090 and only by someone who knows exactly what they are looking for while the 'bite' of D2 is pretty easy to pick out from the crown in use.

My point is that you could shove a dozen knives from a dozen steels in the hands of the most experienced user and unless you told them what they were made from most folks wouldn't see too many differences.

Now that I've just offended everybody, I'll get my coat.

D2 - I'm a big fan, and I'd confidently put it against many of the currently in vogue steels without hesitation.

Nice job.

good post mate, im becoming rather fond of this stuff aswell :)
 

zeBarOOn

Forager
Mar 22, 2010
226
0
Southampton
www.shroos.com
Hey Josh I like the knife - especially the finish to the Birch scales.

I've just ordered the Enzo camper kit and have a few questions if you get a chance to answer!
1. How did you counter sink the corby bolts? I've got a regular countersink drill bit but it's conical and not square like the bolt if that makes sense.
2. When you shape the scales to the tang, what happens when you reach the tang its self with the file? Your knife looks polished so I'm guessing you used a high grit sandpaper to remove any marks made by the file?
3. I haven't got access to many tools - would you advise in buying a jigsaw to cut the scale shapes?

I think thanks about it!

Keep the reviews coming, I enjoy reading them!

Joel
 

Siberianfury

Native
Jan 1, 1970
1,534
6
mendip hills, somerset
Hey Josh I like the knife - especially the finish to the Birch scales.

I've just ordered the Enzo camper kit and have a few questions if you get a chance to answer!
1. How did you counter sink the corby bolts? I've got a regular countersink drill bit but it's conical and not square like the bolt if that makes sense.
2. When you shape the scales to the tang, what happens when you reach the tang its self with the file? Your knife looks polished so I'm guessing you used a high grit sandpaper to remove any marks made by the file?
3. I haven't got access to many tools - would you advise in buying a jigsaw to cut the scale shapes?

I think thanks about it!

Keep the reviews coming, I enjoy reading them!

Joel

hi mate,
yup the corby bolts are countersunk. i shaped the scales using just my linishers working down the grits and then on to 800g wet n dry.
 

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