It seems to me that for most woodworking tasks, a fairly short blade is fine. The further the tip is from the handle, the harder it is to maintain good control for stuff you'd do with the tip, and there is little point in doing powerful cuts at that end due to the effect of leverage resulting in possible hand strain (which is why chest pulls and the like are done near the ricasso).
A longer blade is useful for batoning because, for certain values of diameter, the end of the blade can protrude from the side of the lump of wood when part-way through and thus provide something to whack with the baton. I dare say the trick of using a bit of wood for a makeshift drawknife handle might cause one to have another reason to have a longer blade, depending on how much cutting edge you want for your drawknife.
I don't baton big lumps of wood, and haven't been inclined to make an improvised drawknife, so I'd be tempted to say that my woody clone's 4" blade is probably a bit long. 3 to 3.5" would maybe be better.
The blade is 4mm thick, scandi grind, and that seems fine to me for woodworking stuff and general cutting, but the grind means it's a compromise for some slicing (meat is okay, carrots not so much). It's a thickness that leaves me feeling that it's very robust. I've used a variety of hand tools all my life and have good sympathy for them (I learned many moons ago how to break tools by choosing the tool or wrong technique), and I don't think I'd wreck a 4mm thick lump of tool steel in a hurry. Strong enough for the sort of prying tasks I might ask of it, in other words. If it was 3mm thick, probably still strong enough, but I'd be looking at the blade when prying to see if there was any flex (and maybe adapting my technique or expectations to suit).
Having said that, I agree with Red that one knife doesn't do it all. For the more fiddly stuff, my TBS boar EDC knife is good - sub-3" blade has the tip nice and close to the handle and the 2.5mm scandi blade slices better. A Swiss Champ covers the rest.