sheaths
- Thread starter al
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Afternoon Al,
Generally I treat all leather work with neatsfoot oil this nuorishes the leather as well as protecting it and making it preety waterproof too.
It will darkend leather though so be aware if you try it.
Generally I treat all leather work with neatsfoot oil this nuorishes the leather as well as protecting it and making it preety waterproof too.
It will darkend leather though so be aware if you try it.
Olive oil will also work if you don't want to go to the fun of getting neatsfoot. However, I've heard a rumour that olive oil has an anti-coagulant in it, which could cause problems.
Ought to check that one out properly.
Ought to check that one out properly.
Just be careful that you don't over do the oil! If you put too much on at a time it can be messy, it can take ages for the leather to dry out and you can find it leaving oily marks.
ChrisKavanaugh
Need to contact Admin...
Olive oil will go rancid and cause rot. It was an old standby with earlier vegetable tanned leathers and a favourite to darken and break in leathers of inferior quality that weren't expected to last. It is still an agent used to 'weather' leather goods for movies. Neatsfoot is good, but be sure it is the real stuff. There is another adulterated neatsfoot on the market that will also cause longterm damage. There are many spendid leather cremes developed for equestrian tack. Over here I use Skidmores from Montana or a aussie product called saddle butter. Remember what leather is, skin that has been partially stabilised through tanning. It still needs to receive all the care as ours.
Neatsfoot *compound* is apparently the stuff to avoid. Sulphur content?
I've never known olive oil to go rancid - but since I prefer to cook with it, it never lies around long enough to do so...
Whilst I agree with the sentiment that leather needs protecting much like skin, I draw the line at rubbing factor 25 suntan lotion into it! :-D
I've never known olive oil to go rancid - but since I prefer to cook with it, it never lies around long enough to do so...
Whilst I agree with the sentiment that leather needs protecting much like skin, I draw the line at rubbing factor 25 suntan lotion into it! :-D
Well ESPY if you ever need to eat your leather gear to survival, like the look mountain men did, you'll be ok frying it!!
I was going to say that - if your after a good treatment best place to go is a saddle shop - but I got bet to it!!
I was going to say that - if your after a good treatment best place to go is a saddle shop - but I got bet to it!!
Olive oil will go rancid - I tried it some 8-9 years ago on a leather tobacco pouch for a friend. He didn't like that :roll: :tw: ...and I promished never to do that again :tw:
I use leather grease and leather oil bought at my leather supplier, but I also use a paste based on a formula by famous Norwegian knifemaker Asmund Voldbakken, and it works very well. The paste is made by melting and mixing lanoline, beeswax and peanut oil.
You work the paste into the leather by rubbing and the warmth of your hands will gradually melt the stuff into the leather. I know that some people also add pine tar to this mixture, and that gives the sheath a real nice "bushy" smell.
You can however also use ordinary shoepolish for leather shoes / boots - use a colour that matches the colour of your sheath, or just use a neutral colour. If the polish has silicon as an engredient you should know that this is known to weaken the leather (over time) and rot the stitches made with a natural fiber thread (again over time). I have never seen that, but the leather gurus tell me so.
I use leather grease and leather oil bought at my leather supplier, but I also use a paste based on a formula by famous Norwegian knifemaker Asmund Voldbakken, and it works very well. The paste is made by melting and mixing lanoline, beeswax and peanut oil.
You work the paste into the leather by rubbing and the warmth of your hands will gradually melt the stuff into the leather. I know that some people also add pine tar to this mixture, and that gives the sheath a real nice "bushy" smell.
You can however also use ordinary shoepolish for leather shoes / boots - use a colour that matches the colour of your sheath, or just use a neutral colour. If the polish has silicon as an engredient you should know that this is known to weaken the leather (over time) and rot the stitches made with a natural fiber thread (again over time). I have never seen that, but the leather gurus tell me so.
Tuf Glide by Sentry products. Not only will it protect the leather, it also makes the sheath a safe enviroment for long term storage of a carbon steel knife!
I have used it and it works a treat!
My CPM 10V custom blade has not rusted on the blade even a tiny bit since I got it and it is stored in its leather sheath all the time. It had rusting on the guard and tang where rust had got under the handle scale. No problems on the blade though...
Just re-treat once a year!
I have used it and it works a treat!
My CPM 10V custom blade has not rusted on the blade even a tiny bit since I got it and it is stored in its leather sheath all the time. It had rusting on the guard and tang where rust had got under the handle scale. No problems on the blade though...
Just re-treat once a year!
With around half a gallon of neatsfoot oil to hand at the moment, that is what I tend to stick to. I really ought to get enough beeswax together so I can make up a hot-dip mixture...
ESpy said:
Can you post one of these hot-dip recipes?
I've got beeswax, xanthan gum, guar gum and gum arabic, turpentine essence and linseed oil. What sort of brew could I make from that?
Keith.
Terribly complex -
50/50 neatsfoot oil & beeswax, melted to consolidate.
:-D
Some people like to add some mink oil amongst other things.
50/50 neatsfoot oil & beeswax, melted to consolidate.
:-D
Some people like to add some mink oil amongst other things.
S
Strider
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