I am in the process of making a little cup and billy, I need to rivet the handle on but not using hollow pop rivets. Please can anyone tell me what tools I need to use solid rivets.
rivet advice
- Thread starter Globetrotter.uk
- Start date
Shambling Shaman
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
When I've riveted - it was a hammer and a reaction bar? but that was on sheets with space doing that in side a billy would be tricky. Have you thourt of m2/m4 nuts and bolts then peening the bolt to stop the nut coming off?
you need a reaction block, a vice to hold the reaction block, a steel punch, and a hammer (2lb engineers for preference)
reaction riveting will be difficult in a billy. direct riveting will be better.
Put the reaction block in the vice, place the rivet through the hole.
put the head of the rivet on the block (get a friend to hold the billy still)
form the rivet with the punch and hammer. the punch will allow more control of the formation of the tail.
reaction riveting will be difficult in a billy. direct riveting will be better.
Put the reaction block in the vice, place the rivet through the hole.
put the head of the rivet on the block (get a friend to hold the billy still)
form the rivet with the punch and hammer. the punch will allow more control of the formation of the tail.
Shambling Shaman
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
For clarification and simplification, you need something solid to hit against, think "anvil", and preferably a ball pein hammer.
Make sure the rivet is only just longer than the hole it is poking through (1-2mm) and put the big end of the rivet against the "anvil".
Now, quite gently, start hitting the small end of the rivet to spread the metal out wider than the hole. A ball pien is best for this but a flat hammer will do if that is all you have.
When the rivet is well spread you can start hitting a bit harder to clamp the peices tightly together
The "anvil" can be anything solid that will not move or dent, I have used stones, bollards and even another hammer in a vice in the past.
It's easier to do than to explain if that makes sense.
Make sure the rivet is only just longer than the hole it is poking through (1-2mm) and put the big end of the rivet against the "anvil".
Now, quite gently, start hitting the small end of the rivet to spread the metal out wider than the hole. A ball pien is best for this but a flat hammer will do if that is all you have.
When the rivet is well spread you can start hitting a bit harder to clamp the peices tightly together
The "anvil" can be anything solid that will not move or dent, I have used stones, bollards and even another hammer in a vice in the past.
It's easier to do than to explain if that makes sense.
Globetrotter,
assuming that you're using stainless steel for your set, you'll need something similar for the fastener - finding soft stainless rod suitable for rivetting is going to be hard to find. In which case I'll echo previous advice and recommend a small stainless nut & bolt (or two). Something like a pan headed bolt - a shallow dome shaped head would be good, fit them with the bolt head inside the pot for ease of cleaning. Grunt the bolt up as tight as you can get it, then cut off any excess bolt and hammer the tail end into a dome shape - it will deform into a sharp edged disk so you need to check it and bash the sharp bits under the dome, best done with the ball end of a ballpein hammer. You can support the cup or billy on the end of anything hard and rigid like a crowbar in a vice, so long as it supports on the bolt head rather than the surrounding metal.
It might need to be filed after all this to smoothe any remaining edges. And finally get the spanners back on it and grunt it tight again in case the hammering has tightened the joint inside the bolt. I would prefer not to use anything like silicone sealant between the handle and vessel, but it is something to consider if your joint does not turn out to be waterproof.
ATB and show us the results.
Ogri the trog
assuming that you're using stainless steel for your set, you'll need something similar for the fastener - finding soft stainless rod suitable for rivetting is going to be hard to find. In which case I'll echo previous advice and recommend a small stainless nut & bolt (or two). Something like a pan headed bolt - a shallow dome shaped head would be good, fit them with the bolt head inside the pot for ease of cleaning. Grunt the bolt up as tight as you can get it, then cut off any excess bolt and hammer the tail end into a dome shape - it will deform into a sharp edged disk so you need to check it and bash the sharp bits under the dome, best done with the ball end of a ballpein hammer. You can support the cup or billy on the end of anything hard and rigid like a crowbar in a vice, so long as it supports on the bolt head rather than the surrounding metal.
It might need to be filed after all this to smoothe any remaining edges. And finally get the spanners back on it and grunt it tight again in case the hammering has tightened the joint inside the bolt. I would prefer not to use anything like silicone sealant between the handle and vessel, but it is something to consider if your joint does not turn out to be waterproof.
ATB and show us the results.
Ogri the trog
Again assuming the set to be stainless,
No I don't think so, welding can change the properties of some stainless and allow rust to form in the areas that were heated........... ummmmm hang on, do you mean a sort of metal repair goo?
Even that would be doubtfull as I wouldn't fancy heating it and releasing the chemical soup into your brew!
ATB
Ogri the trog
PS here's some I made a while ago....
ATB
Ogri the trog
