rabbit shooting - questions from a beginner

[Landy_Dom]

Hi

I tried my first rabbit shoot at the weekend, having got a permission to shoot on some local land.

I didn't have much luck and would appreciate any pointers from the more experienced of you out there?

I had most success on grassy rides through woodland - I would walk slowly up the ride til I saw a bunny, then approach to the point where he got nervous, kneel and try a shot. The trouble was, I couldn't get closer than 30-40 yards and I'd be happier taking shots at more like 25 (is this feasible?). I got one good shot off at 30 yards but because I was nervous and not positioned comfortably, I missed.

I am curious as to the best approach - stalk, or find a spot and wait for them to appear? time of day? (I was out mid afternoon but I suspect dusk might have been better). Is sound the key, or sight or scent? which is most important?

Any pointers you guys can give me to up my game?

So far I've worked out I need to zero the rifle for slightly longer range (maybe 30 yards instead of 20) and practice shooting from a kneeling position - anything else I need to work on?

Cheers folks and happy hunting!

 

[SimonM]

It's a long time since I shot bunnies, or an air rifle for that matter, but:

Zero in the position you will shoot most from.
30 yards zero
Shoot at first &/or last light
Recce the area first and get a feel for the habbits of the bunnies.

I always preferred to ambush the bunnies...but I'm just lazy and used to have a large bunny population.

Simon

 

[JonathanD]

Find out where they like to congregate, then sit and wait. Won't take them long to come out and up close.

 

[veryWildbill]

Find an active warren, lay up 20-30 yards away downwind, build a hide if theres no cover. Go for headshots only, this ensures a clean kill and doesnt damage the meat. Most of all, get pleny of practice in to ensure that your shot will hit the mark. Good hunting.

[video=youtube;a-alido1z80]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-alido1z80[/video]

 

[wattsy]

i zero at 35 yards which is handy if your permission is open grass/farm land and you have to stalk them you can get away with zeroing closer if your going to be using a hide or sitting and waiting. the best thing to do is to go out one evening without the rifle and have a slow walk around to see where they all are and try to figure out the best way to shoot them

 

[Soloman]

I zero my air ranger for 35 yards,found over years thats about right.
If your ground is suitable set up a small hid where you can be comfortable,but dont use it all the time.
If possable get into a position where you can shoot prone and if you can add a bipod but if you do zero your rifle using it(great for pcp but not so good for a springer.
Remember to set card out at set ranges and get to know the trajectoy of your pellet/rifle combination as this can vary greatly with things like pellet weight and will be even more with .22.
Get to know your ground as wattsy said.
Hope this helps,Soloman

 

[FerlasDave]

Practice your positions on a range moving in and out of them and firing, practice your breathing too these two points are probably the most important. If your position isnt comfortable and your breathing is off you will never hit the target. It should all be natural so get practicing and get out without the gun till you can stalk profficiently.

 

[Ogri the trog]

Try deliberately leaving your pellets at home - get comfortable and sit, wait and watch to see just how close they get without being spooked by the occasional shot.
The evenings are drawing in and within a few months you'll be able to go straight out after school/work etc and by then your fieldcraft should have improved enough to take them with confidence.

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[SDJC]

Hi Landy

From bitter experience I think the main thing is patience - I remember getting my first springer, crashing into the field where I shoot and being suprised when the bunnies hadn't poked their heads out after ten minutes or so!

I shoot in an open field which is surrounded by hedges on three sides and a wood on the other. I've spent a load of time just watching the rabbits to see where their burrows/runs are etc. Over time, I've learnt that the best way of getting them is to walk along the hedge to the corner of the field where I've built a (very basic!) hide. I've got an old coolbox that I take with me as it's useful to carry the rabbits back in and gives me something comfortable to sit on whilst I'm waiting!

Apart from the above, the main thing I've found out through trial and error is the importance of bushcraft. I do wear camo/DPM, but not religiously and don't think it's essential (any olive/brown colours etc will do). I think the main thing is to try and avoid standing out against the horizon (keep to hedges etc) and to avoid looking like a human where possible (cover face and wear gloves). I also wear old trainers unless it's p1ssing it down as I find they give me more feel for creeping around etc.

You may already have read it, but there are excellent books/articles written by a guy called John Darling which describe all about hunting/bustcraft - well worth a read. Think there's also a couple of videos of his on Youtube!

Hope that helps - good luck hunting!

Stuart

 

[Ogri the trog]

Forgot to add....

Rabbits are hunted by nearly everything that moves, they have excellent vision and are very aware of movement - they seem to be happy to let movement go on but become very skittish once that movement stops. I've heard a tale that you can walk in ever decreasing circles around a rabbit in open ground until you are close enough to bash it over the head or grab it with your hands - dunno how true this might be but I know that as soon as I stop moving is the time tha most bunnies make a hasty retreat to cover. Combine this vision with the fact that they are low to the ground and virtually every preditor is likely to be spotted before it spots them.
They also have good hearing and are very sensative to vibrations - remember Thumper drumming his back legs in warning! So stealth and quiet are a must - things like twanging the fence as you climb into the field are certain to mean an empty bag.

My favourite is to find a quiet place and let them come out into the open of their own accord, then I can pick them off individually but never the few that are nearest to me!

HTH

Ogri the trog

ps another vote for the "Darling" book on Rabbit Management, very good read.

 

[Neumo]

Lots of good avice above. Few things I have learned:
- always make sure you are downwind, so check regularly to make sure it has not changed direction
- If stalking make all movements slow. Kneeling to take a shot will send them running 99% of the time as they see lots of movement while you do it
- camo is good but quiet chlothes & boots are more important when stalking. If you can hear your garments, boots, keys, change in pocket making a noise then so can they.
- Better to lay up near a warren in daylight. Get a bipod if you do it a lot; Harris are the best, not cheap but last for decades
- Covering your exposed skin i.e face & hands can make a big difference
- The more they get shot the longer they take to come out again & the quicker they go in

Hope that helps & good luck.

 

[motz]

Before you go out to do any shooting make sure you know your rifle as long as it is set up correctly and has sufficient power you cannot blame misses on the gun. The next thing to do is zero at the range you will most likely be shooting at - for me this is just over 25 yrds but everyone is different as it depends on where you shoot most often and how close you can get to the coneys. Then practise practise practise! You shouldn't even be going out shooting if at home you cannot make the shots so to speak. When shooting live quarry you have to be 100% confident that the shot will kill it cleanly anything less than that is irresponsible. Then practise prone, kneeling, standing or any positions you will most likely shoot from. When doing these take note of how you have to adjust the aim (if using a air rifle with recoil). For example when I'm shooting prone I know that I have to aim slightly down and right as the recoil pulls it up and left. This comes from practising and then practising some more at all different ranges and positions - it may take time and you may just want to go out and get some bunies, but honestly this will help you soo much as when out in the field you will know what kind of position to take up, if it is in your range etc, and any compensations you will have to make because of this, i.e. hold over or hold under etc.

Next - fieldcraft. There is no point doing all the above if all you do is scare them as soon as you get to your shoot! Learn to tread lightly, walk slowly and quietly and move smoothly. All animals notice jerky movements more than fluid ones. Take your time too as once you've seen a rabbit don't rush to try and kill it, this will lead to more failures than successes as I know from personal experience. If the rabbit hasn't seen you then you have all the time in the world. Get down low, move slowly and quietly, try not to step out into the horizon but follow a hedge line if possible as this will help to disguise you. Be aware of the wind direction as rabbits will smell you before you can see them alot of the time.

Clothing - for rabits I don't think camoflauge is by any means essential. True they have excellent eyesight but it is more about seeing something move that scares them not because it isn't the latest brand of camo. Just wear something that is comfy and warm but doesn't restrict your movements. Also make sure it is silent when it moves - materials that are waterproof often make far too much noise for me too shoot in. Colour wise I tend to shoot in jeans but a pair of black trakkies is fine. And a dark green top is fine too although make sure it has sleeves as this goves better cover up, but also when you're going prone you don't want skin showing when you have no option but to go through nettles!

The shot - So you've found a rabbit, it is in range - get down low, I find prone my most steady shot. Do this slowly - there's no need to rush! move your gun up to aim, again slowly. Get your sights on and aim - headshots only, I personally don't agree with Heart/Lung shots for rabbits. Take deep breaths and steady yourself if you've been crawling along to get in range you heart'll be going some and also the adrenaline pumpinground will be make your hands very unseady. So calm yourself, take aim and squeeze the trigger.....JOB DONE!

I find roaming and stalking the better option than siting and waiting but it all depends on how large the permission etc. Just as another note rabbits are cautious animals and will often see you approaching and lift their heads up - when they do this just stay still and wait - be patient, when they go back to eating carry on moving forward. If you're struggling to get a shot off due to blades of grass in way of it's head etc try squeaking as this will mostly cuase them to lift their heads out of the grass - however there have been times that doing this has also caused them to bolt!

So good luck - remember safety and always make sure quarry id dispatched by breaking it's neck when you pick it up.

Motz.

 

[mayobushcraft]

In Florida where I grew up I would walk slowly along the edge of fields looking into the brush and when I spotted a rabbit would keep walking and raise the gun up for the shot using iron sights without a scope. Sometimes I would walk for only a few hundred yards and walk away six rabbits. And would not hunt that area again for the rest of the year. Practice that way with cans placed a few yards into the brush untill you are consitant at different distaces. Then go hunting. Good luck

 

[MSkiba]

I like the little furry rascals!

Best advice I can give, is only shoot it if you are going to eat it. and practice lots and lots to avoil injuring a animal without a clean kill.

The rest is obvious. make sure you can hit a can of coke from 50 yards with your gun and stalk like they do in films!

 

[Metatron]

Get a cheap 10 million (or whatever is bright and cheap) candle power search spot light and go at night, they stare at the light, aim and pull the trigger. With lamping if you're a poor shot its going to be a numbers game and there are lots of rabbits to shot at, so you're bound to hit something.

 

[PeterHW]

Here are a few fun things I used to do as a young'un learning with my air rifle ....

I started off taking three tennis balls to an area I had seen the rabbits feed in .... usually about 10 foot out from a dry stone wall or bushes at the side of a field .... I would bracket an area with the tree balls at differing distances of near. middle and far.
I would then practise hitting the balls learning the come ups on my scope to hit all three regularly. If you are aiming off without altering the turrets .... remember to stick with the same magnification on the scope to learn a mental picture of what it takes.
Some scopes are multi powered but have no target turrets which enable you to alter elevation so you aim using the cross hair where you want to hit .... I learned it was better to have scope turrets I could alter and which tracked properly than aiming off ... but scopes that can do this cost more. Having said that .... they were worth it .... and worth saving up for. Once I understood my ideal ranges and the alterations required I had a skill base to work with.

Read around sniper training on the internet .... learn the steady positions other than kneeling .... learn how to sit properly and rest the rifle on your knees or side of your legs when lying down head back from the target .... steady positions are all important. Kneeling forinstance and resting the rifle on a daysack taken off for the purpose of a rest and using your right leg to rest your right elbow on is steadier than a left leg kneeling with no rucksack for a rest and using your left knee for your left elbow .... also learn how to use kilamanjaro sticks .... basically improvised tripods at standing height .... all of these techniques improve aim and accuracy .... plus learning is fun.

Once position and breathing were sorted then consider static positions first for the rabbits .... basically waiting for them to come to you .... patience is the essence of hunting .... and a steady position is worth three freehand shots which may be misses .... if the best concealed positions for your land are not down wind .... look at height as an alternative .... the higher you are off the ground the less your scent direction matters .... or the changes in the wind will give you away. I made some nice wooden platforms in certain trees .... great for practise areas as well and they were my best positions to start getting hits. They also showed the importance of head shots .... you could'nt run up to the rabbit if wounded and it was trying to get back down a burrow ....

Once I had a few kills from one of these and the rabbits had vanished I would then do a walk around the shoot to see if I could spot a few more .... learning how to lean against a dry stone wall and use it to steady the shot was a favourite option .... I would always save a good field though for when it was getting dark .... just before then I would go to a high position and wait out with a lamp .... definately able to get a few more then .... it was certainly possible to bag up to 20 a day which was the limit I set myself as cleaning more than that afterwards was a long job.

Great fun .... best times when I was in my early teens ....

 

[dean4442]

Get a cheap 10 million (or whatever is bright and cheap) candle power search spot light and go at night, they stare at the light, aim and pull the trigger. With lamping if you're a poor shot its going to be a numbers game and there are lots of rabbits to shot at, so you're bound to hit something.

This is some of the worst advice I have ever seen, what happened to having respect for the quarry? Seriously if you are a poor shot then the thing to do is practice LOTS and get better before you start trying for live quarry.
Colin

 

[Metatron]

This is some of the worst advice I have ever seen, what happened to having respect for the quarry? Seriously if you are a poor shot then the thing to do is practice LOTS and get better before you start trying for live quarry.
Colin

I grow up on a farm its how we did pest control (I'm not a bad shot), it works very well. Respect for the quarry?, rabbits are pests and deserve the same level of respect as rats.

We were purely about shooting as many as we could in one night, it was not uncommon for me and my brother to get high double figures, most of which we gutted, skinned and boiled up for the dogs.

 

[wattsy]

This is some of the worst advice I have ever seen, what happened to having respect for the quarry? Seriously if you are a poor shot then the thing to do is practice LOTS and get better before you start trying for live quarry.
Colin

nothing wrong with lamping its often the most efficient way of shooting the little devils i've had hundreds off the lamp with rifles and dogs

 

[Fin]

Ok,

I'm still shooting bunnies regularly (the season"s well under way!). So here's my advice:

First of all you didn't say what calibre your rifle is. The common calibres are .177 and .22 (although just to be awkward mine's a .20!). Non FAC air rifles are limited to 12ft/lbs of muzzle force - so a .177 pellet (being generally lighter) exits the barrel faster than a heavier .22. This is crucial to accuracy because a .177 pellet will have a flatter trajectory than a .22 so you can choose the same aiming point over a greater spread of ranges. A typical .22 pellet will have more of an arcing trajectory so the aim point will only be good at the range you zeroed it at.

What I said above is pretty generalised and depends on a number of variables (rifle accuracy, pellet weigh, zero distance etc) but I'll give you some rough figures to be going on with.

When you zero a rifle you are trying to find a sweet spot in it's trajectory - i.e. the mid point where it's flattest for longest. Generally (it depends on the rifle) it's about 20-25 yards for a .22 and 30-35 yards for a .177. Once you've zeroed it's time for practice, practice, practice. For bunnies you need to be able to place a shot in a 10p piece size target at various ranges - in order to achieve a clean, painless kill. First of all practice your group size at your zeroed range - that's 3 or more pellets fired and you want them all to land in that 10p piece size target. Now vary the ranges by up to 10 yards from your zeroed range and see how much you have to alter the aiming point in order to hit the target at the new range (this is called holding under or holding over). You will find a greater degree of hold over/ under is required with .22 than it is with .177. For example my rifle is zeroed to 32 yards - because the hold over (if I'm 10 yards further away) is equal to the hold under (if I'm 10 yards closer). This will take time (and a lot of pellets!) to get right - but persevere.

Now for the strategy/ fieldcraft. First recce the warren when the rabbits are underground (mid-day is a good time) - make a note of the prevailing wind direction and try to identify good lying up sites (preferably with cover) - down wind of the warren. Pick at least 2-3 sites so you can vary the shoot (wind may change and rabbits will quickly learn the threat direction). Pace out your zero distance from your chosen site to the area where the bunnies are likely to browse (not too far from the holes) and place a marker on the ground (a pile of stones or a stick - something natural). This gives you a visual clue to judge the range of the rabbit and you'll be able to hold over/ under - based on your previous practice - to achieve clean kills. Leave the site and don't return for at least a couple of days for the rabbits to get used to the markers and any ground you have disturbed in preparing your sites.

Now for the hunt! Get to your site at least an hour before dawn or dusk, get comfortable - and lie completely still - preferably in a prone firing position with your rifle ready to fire (an hour is a long time to do this - so I'll say again - get comfortable!). Rabbits are crepuscular and you're going to be presented with more targets at these times. When a rabbit presents itself draw an imaginary line back from it's eye and down from it's ear. Where the two lines intercept is the centre of it's brain - if your pellet lands there - then the rabbit will drop without a sound and more often than not - you won't disturb the rest of the warren - enabling you to keep firing.

A miss is a miss but worse is a badly placed shot. Not only will this cause suffering to the rabbit (and you may be faced with the unpleasant business of putting it out of it's misery) - the muscles will be tense and full of adrenalin at the point of death, making it less palatable. It's also likely to be the last shot you fire that day - as all the rest of the rabbits will scarper underground.

Lastly - don't over shoot an area - rabbits learn (in the short term anyway) - the more you shoot at them, the harder they become to hit. What you want to achieve is a full grown rabbit, whose just had a good breeding season, is full of health after a bountiful summer, is relaxed, feeding, enjoying the late summer sunset and feeling pretty pleased with life when - all of a sudden - the lights go out!

Good luck and good hunting!

Fin