Wanted Nomad in AEBL

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Allans865

Full Member
Nov 17, 2016
470
196
East Kilbride
I have a Nomad in AEB-L, and it is the best knife I own, and I have a few custom knives including a couple of Jacklores. Fantastic knife...I would never part with it. Your best bet would be to just bite the bullet and go for a brand new one...you won't regret it, it's money well spent. There aren't many used ones around, because once you have one you won't let it go, it's as simple as that.

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Murat_Cyp

Forager
Sep 16, 2020
191
58
41
Bristol
The data says 30 % more abrasive resistant than O1. But it is also 300 % tougher (i.e. impact shock resistance) than O1 according to the same source. And since one of the edge retention mechanisms involved in cutting wood is the edge stability (directly related to the impact toughness). I would say, AEBL edge should last noticeably longer than AEBL for typical bushcraft use.
 

Murat_Cyp

Forager
Sep 16, 2020
191
58
41
Bristol
Unfortunately, some makers are charging very high prices for knives made from AEBL as it is one of those high-end exotic stainless steel. But the reality is, it is one of the cheapest stainless (similarly priced to O1) and very easy to work with in terms of grind ability. So it will not eat makers' belts. It is also not the most difficult stainless steel to heat treat as it is widely used in the knife industry and there is an established heat treat protocol for it.
 
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alphaburner

Full Member
Jan 17, 2014
491
79
Cork, Ireland
Im a big fan of RWL34, seems to suit my needs perfectly but that can be expensive too, depending on the maker. Just don’t want something that will be used a lot whittling needing constant resharpening
 

Murat_Cyp

Forager
Sep 16, 2020
191
58
41
Bristol
I have carving sloyd made of 1095 (I assume that's what Mora 106 is made of), 52100 and RWL34. They are not much difference between them in use since I always prefer to use very sharp knives. They all lose their extreme sharpness relatively soon after use, so constant maintenance with a strop is required regardless of the steel. Sharpening (using stones) is not required if I do not chip or roll the edge. As a side note, the strop should be flat with no or little give in to prevent the rounding of the apex. If the apex is rounded after repeated stropping, a very long sharpening session is required to correct the geometry, hence bringing the sharpness back. So, in my case, the reason I want AEBL is it is rust resistance, edge stability and the ability to take a better edge than O1 rather than its edge retention qualities.
 

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