Modifying a Condor Bushlore

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Apr 8, 2009
1,165
144
Ashdown Forest
Hello all. I received a Condor Bushlore for Christmas, mainly because I fancied trying out something very different from my Fallkniven S1, and quite liked the idea of a ‘project knife’.

I knew the limitations of the knife before I got it- namely the overly long distance between the handle and the start of the cutting edge (is this called the ‘ricasso’?), and the fact that the edge on it isn’t really a real Scandi, and is a little too steep.
So I am prepared to have a bash at modifying it. The trouble is, to be honest, I haven’t a clue (or any handy power tools like a belt sander)!

I have marked out the desired start of my proposed new grind with pen, as well as the centre line of the ricasso I wish to grind down to.

I have a vice, and a ******* file, together with plenty of wet and dry as well. I also have a set of grinding stones (http://www.clasohlson.co.uk/Product/Product.aspx?id=158381730) that I can fit in an electric drill.

Basically, I was planning on whacking the knife in the vice, and very carefully using the file to extend the cutting edge almost to the handle (possibly using the grinding stones to start this off), and using the file to return the almost convex factory edge of the knife to a scandi, widening the grind (i.e. taking it back further from the edge) to reduce the angle somewhat.

Is this feasible? From what research I have managed to do, I appreciate that my job would be easier if I softened the steel first by heating, but I don’t really want to get into this as I worry about returning it to the correct hardness.

Eventually, I plan on fitting new scales, and making a sheath.

Thanks all!
 

rg598

Native
Stay away from any grinder. The heat will do a number of the tempering of the blade. Just use the fine. The harders part will be the level out the cutting edge because the blade is narrowed near the handle. Also, if yours is anything like mine, the edge is probably ground more on one side of the blade than the other. All that being said, a file will do a lot of work.
 

Deck

Forager
Dec 31, 2010
121
0
Moray
I'm thinking about doing the same to mine (also a Christmas present...to myself :lmao:). Was thinking of using a file as well to reduce 'the gap' then giving the grind a really good work over with the file to try and straighten it out to resemble more of a scandi. Will be interested to hear how you get on!
 
probably struggle with a file unless the HT is really bad i,e soft
by hand you need to look at wet and dry wrapped around the file and some WD 40 plus a lot of patience 120 gt or 240 would be a good start to remove the metal and then go up to 400 and 600 gt


good luck

Duncan
 
Apr 8, 2009
1,165
144
Ashdown Forest
Thanks all. I'll stay away from the grinding stones then! Good tip about wrapping the wet and dry around the file- I assume then that the wet and dry would have more cutting power for the hardened steel than the file?

RG598- I can see what you mean by levelling out the cutting edge. If I managed this (and there would be a lot of metal to remove), I suppose it would bring the blade shape to something more similar to a woodlore, but do you think it is really necessary? Would it increase it's performance considerably?

Deck- I’ll certainly let you know how i get on! First i need to persuade the wife to allow me to fit the vice to the kitchen worktop...
 

Stew

Bushcrafter through and through
Nov 29, 2003
6,436
1,274
Aylesbury
stewartjlight-knives.com
Stay away from any grinder. The heat will do a number of the tempering of the blade. Just use the fine. The harders part will be the level out the cutting edge because the blade is narrowed near the handle. Also, if yours is anything like mine, the edge is probably ground more on one side of the blade than the other. All that being said, a file will do a lot of work.

Hi Ross,

Are these comments actually based on experience?

I often use my grinder on hardened steel with no issues, and I know FGYT does the same. You just need to take more care. Frequent dips in water to keep it cool after every pass on the grinder should be ok.
I wouldn't expect a file to do much good on the edge unless it's really soft.
 

seraphim

Member
Dec 19, 2010
46
0
Ratae Corieltauvorum
RG598 - Would using a slow 120rpm wet wheel grinder be ok, if I was to let the blade cool every few seconds? I use the fast dry wheel on my HSS turnign tools as they don't lose temper with heat, but with the 1075 steel I'd assume it has to be kept cool to maintain it's hardness?

I'm wanting to change the angle to more of a mora grind on this and decrease the choil as well as bring an edge back to my cheapy hatchet.

Thanks

Jim

Hi Ross,

Are these comments actually based on experience?

I often use my grinder on hardened steel with no issues, and I know FGYT does the same. You just need to take more care. Frequent dips in water to keep it cool after every pass on the grinder should be ok.
I wouldn't expect a file to do much good on the edge unless it's really soft.
 
you should be fine on a wet grinder

i use a belt grinder with a 2m belt and have sparks flying off but it dosnt heat the blade as much as a wheel bench grinder as Stew said i grind HT blades infact i grind all of the bevel after HT up to 1300gt polished finish sharp edge at high speed i do water dip occasionally if needed

best bet is to use your fingers if its to hot to hold dip it

ATB

Duncan
 

rg598

Native
Hi Ross,

Are these comments actually based on experience?

I often use my grinder on hardened steel with no issues, and I know FGYT does the same. You just need to take more care. Frequent dips in water to keep it cool after every pass on the grinder should be ok.
I wouldn't expect a file to do much good on the edge unless it's really soft.

You can do it, but I would not take the risk. The problem is that you have no way of knowing how high the temperature of the blade is getting. You also don't know what temperature will effect the particular blade, especially if you are rapidly cooling it. The biggest problem is that you almost never know when you have messed up the blade, unless you have a Rockwell scale. If you have a stationary wet wheel grinder and know what you are doing, you can get it done. It just didn't seem to be the type of grinder the OP had in mind. If you have been shaping already tempered knives on a grinder, and have the skill to do it without effecting the blade, then that's great. It does not appear that the OP had use of the same equipment and experience level. I was answering his question.

I file should do fine on a well tempered blade. In fact, I've seen knife makers test the blades that way. If you can remove metal from the blade with a sharpening stone, you should be able to do it with a good file.
 
Apr 8, 2009
1,165
144
Ashdown Forest
I don't have a wet wheel grinder, or any other grinder other than little grinding stones that can fit in an electric drill. No harm done sticking to the file/wet and dry then to be on the safe side. At least i can start it off that way to see how things progress, and have a rethink if it doesn't seem to be working...

Lynx- I’d love to see a photo of your reground knife if you are able to put one up, failing that a description of what was done? How do you plan to/have you managed to remove the factory scales- would I be assuming it is a simple case of carefully chipping them off with a chisel/hammer or is there a more refined way of doing things?!

Thanks!
 
I don't have a wet wheel grinder, or any other grinder other than little grinding stones that can fit in an electric drill. No harm done sticking to the file/wet and dry then to be on the safe side. At least i can start it off that way to see how things progress, and have a rethink if it doesn't seem to be working...

Lynx- I’d love to see a photo of your reground knife if you are able to put one up, failing that a description of what was done? How do you plan to/have you managed to remove the factory scales- would I be assuming it is a simple case of carefully chipping them off with a chisel/hammer or is there a more refined way of doing things?!

Thanks!



If you plan to regrind change scales and maybe new sheath its probably cheaper and a lot easier to buy a blade blank ;)

to removethe scales saw down the sides of the pins to teh tang with a hacksaw and in a few more places and ping of with a screwdriver in the slots bit more iuse of the hacksaw etc and some course wet n dry to clean them back up

ATB

Duncan
 

Lynx

Nomad
Jun 5, 2010
423
0
Wellingborough, Northants
I don't have a wet wheel grinder, or any other grinder other than little grinding stones that can fit in an electric drill. No harm done sticking to the file/wet and dry then to be on the safe side. At least i can start it off that way to see how things progress, and have a rethink if it doesn't seem to be working...

Lynx- I’d love to see a photo of your reground knife if you are able to put one up, failing that a description of what was done? How do you plan to/have you managed to remove the factory scales- would I be assuming it is a simple case of carefully chipping them off with a chisel/hammer or is there a more refined way of doing things?!

Thanks!

The original blade seemed to have a "rounded" sort of edge to it and as a result it did not cut very well at all. It now has a good Skandi grind to it is very sharp and cuts terrifically. I don't have a pic but I will see if I can sort one out for you. The maker said he would need to remove the scales to grind it properly and I was happy for him to do so as I wanted to added a set of scales myself. Had this done around August time and still haven't got around to it! :)
 
Apr 8, 2009
1,165
144
Ashdown Forest
Good advice all round (especially yours John!).

Thanks all. I'll try and keep people updated as to progress if you are interested. In terms of price, i couldn't find a knife blank which was a rough approximation of the woodlore shape cheaper than the £30 for the bushlore- but i possibly wasn't looking in the right places. But to be honest, although i have no skill at the moment, i fancied having a bash at modifying it. The best way to learn!
 

luckylee

On a new Journey
Aug 24, 2010
2,412
0
birmingham
hi mate, i bought the same knife ages ago, and had the same problems with the bevel, but i done all my reprofiling on the lansky, started of with the course diamond hone and then just went through the others, and now it has a perfect 25 degree bevel, it took some time i'm not going to lie, but i got there in the end, and what a knife it makes when you have done it, and i reprofiled all the handle as well, the difference was tramendouse, like you say as a project its great, and when you have finished, you have some knife for the money i tell you, it gets wickedly sharp and holds its edge really well. i quite like the 1075 steel, that the knife is made of, works really well imho.
once you have done these things to this knife i think it is very underated, if you take the time to do the handle and reprofile the bevel, but if you don't have the time or the no how to take on a little project, then i don't think the knife is very good the way it comes from condor.
 

rg598

Native
Here is one of the sides after 30 min with the file.

005.JPG


I'm sure that with care you can do a much better job. :)
 

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