Leather Virgin

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Sounds like it should be on very different type of internet site doesn't it??!

Inspired by you lot I'm going to have a go at this leatherworking lark but was goint to start out making some drawstring pouches, just the kind of size to take my steel, some flint and charcloth. Nothing overly ambitious.

I'm going to order my tools and leather from Le Prevo but can anyone point me in the direction of a suitable pattern or should I just make it up as I go along?

Also, pricking iron and awl yes but overstitch wheel? They suggest one but what does it actually do?
 

tommy the cat

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 6, 2007
2,138
1
55
SHROPSHIRE UK
Just my two penny....pricking iron not necessary for pouches in fact a sewing machine will stitch the leather as it is very thin.
Have a look at Shauns tutorial on Pablo's site as well as his vid is on you tube.
A pricking iron i believe does the same job as an over stitch wheel both not necesary for a pouch unless you want to stitch by hand.
All I did was draw round something round measure round it cut that size of material out with a little extra and sewed the two pieces together.
Sorry no pic's Dave
Sorry just read that back and as clear as mud!
 

dogwood

Settler
Oct 16, 2008
501
0
San Francisco
I'm going to order my tools and leather from Le Prevo but can anyone point me in the direction of a suitable pattern or should I just make it up as I go along?

Also, pricking iron and awl yes but overstitch wheel? They suggest one but what does it actually do?

I'd say make the pattern up as you go along -- just make sure to leave a fair margin (say 1/2 inch at first) for your seams. You can always trim the leather when its assembled.

An overstitch wheel marks the spots where you will punch holes for the stitches at regular intervals (typically 5, 6 or 7 stitches to the inch). Most overstitch wheels can be pressed hard enough in to wet leather to make an indented line to protect the stitches from abrasion.

They're not absolutely essential but I highly recommend them because they make life a lot easier and give you a nice neat look.

Have fun! I expect you'll really enjoy it.
 

rancid badger

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
A pricking iron actually makes your holes for you, not only that but the holes are automatically made at the correct angle for stitching.eg: \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ they should be a little more "flat" than this but that's the best I can do! what you don't want is a line of holes like this: //--\\\ // - -/, they should have the same orientation and be within the scored or grooved stitch line.

If all you want to do is stitch soft, bag type pouches then you definitely dont need a pricking iron.
For the price of the pricking iron, you can buy three or four much more versatile tools.

The over stitch wheel is handy if you don't have a sewing machine, as it gives you your points to pierce with the awl.
Also handy is the adjustable stitch groover, as is the fixed groover.

To recap a bit; if you do not intend getting into making belts and solid pouches just yet;
buy your needles, thread, awl and spare blade, overstitch wheel and a block of beeswax.
It would also be worth getting hold of a cheap, foam, garden kneeling pad, from poundland/poundstretcher etc- these are really good for laying your leather on while you stab the awl holes.

If you want to work veg tan or other stiffer leather for belts etc, then buy all the above but add the adj stitch groover, a fixed groover and an edge beveller.
DONT be tempted to buy a so called "safety beveller" they're rubbish:D


I hope this helps, I've actually confused myself a couple of times trying to explain what I'm on about:D

Sincere best wishes
R.B.
 

dogwood

Settler
Oct 16, 2008
501
0
San Francisco
To recap a bit; if you do not intend getting into making belts and solid pouches just yet;
buy your needles, thread, awl and spare blade, overstitch wheel and a block of beeswax.
It would also be worth getting hold of a cheap, foam, garden kneeling pad, from poundland/poundstretcher etc- these are really good for laying your leather on while you stab the awl holes.

Thanks clarifying the "pricking iron" term - we call them prongs or punches in America.

On the pounding board -- I've found that if you go to a carpet and/or flooring store they often have redundant 12 inch square samples backed in heavy rubber that they are more than happy to give away as they would be discarded anyway.

If you lay the samples out rubber side up, you get a *great* pounding board. I use two or three layers of these (for thickness) and use contact cement to glue them to a piece of board.

It makes for a terrific free cutting/pounding board and when the surface gets too chewed up, just glue another layer of samples on the top!
 

jojo

Need to contact Admin...
Aug 16, 2006
2,630
4
England's most easterly point
The other thing you can do with the over-stitch wheel is to go over your sewing when it's done, it help to neaten it up.

If you don't want to use the wheel, you can use a fork to mark the stitch holes. The wheel is easier, but then most everyone uses them, so the fork gives a more personalized effect :cool: If you want it even more personalized, you can space the holes by eye!
 
Okay, so.....

Needles (thinking size 3?)
Thread (18/3 linen?)
Sewing Awl Handle
Awl Blade (2" x 2 of?)
Overstitch Wheel (6 to an 1"? I wont be using a sewing machine!!)
Beeswax
Adjustable Stitch Groover
Fixed Groover (Small or Large???)
Edge Beveller (No 1, 2 or 3???)

Leather, whats the best general thickness / type I should go for??

Thanks for all your help folks.
 

mick miller

Full Member
Jan 4, 2008
520
0
Herts.
If you ring LePrevo and talk to the folk there you'll fine them very helpful, just let them know the types of project you wish to undertake and they'll put you right.

It's worth getting the al stolman book 'how to hand sew leather', I've found it invaluable and I'm a total leathercraft noob too!
 

Drongo

Member
Aug 19, 2008
38
0
47
Lisburn
Not to hijack this thread, but I'm also a newbie to the whole leather thing...

My sheath from Brisa has started to un-stitch itself and instead of just buying a new one, I thought I'd have a go at repairing it...

I was thinking of getting one of those automatic sewing awl thingys....?

Or would I be better with double needles...?

Or should I just give up and buy a new sheath...?

What do you think...?
 

Bimble

Forager
Jul 2, 2008
157
0
Stafford, England
Depends rather on how much leather work you plan on doing?
Most of us already have most of the required tools to work leather and everything else can be improvised at a pinch with the possible exception of a good awl.

My kit involves the following.

Kit that I can take into the field if needs be:

Leather awl: This is the only bit of dedicated kit I would recommend. A good diamond shaped awl will make all the difference if working thick leather. Like a good knife they come blunt, and the cutting edges need to be sharpened to a razor edge. Doing this removes the force needed to make stitch holes and the whole process becomes a joy and a whole lot less dangerous.

Small Dining Fork ‘borrowed’ from British Airways about 12 years ago (I doubt you can do this now): This is used as a pricking iron. The prongs are about 5 mm spacing and have been filed sharp and at the correct stitch angle. This is used to mark neat stitches ensuring correct spacing and indication of the angle for the awl to enter.

My Frost Sloyd Knife: Razor sharp, used to cut leather, bevel edges (carve a ‘v’ grooved ‘knife’ plane from a bit of wood)

Needles: Buy proper leather blunts, they are cheap and your fingers won’t end up as a pin cushion.

The below I use at home for convenience:

Pair of scissors: to make cardboard patterns

Super Glue: This is used to hold tricky things in place temporarily while stitching.

Clamps: cheap small spring clamps used to hold leather together while wet moulding is drying prior to stitching.

Plastic Chopping Board: To stop the kitchen table looking like my work bench.

The above kit is all that’s really needed for the odd knife sheath or possible pouch. If you need to do riveting, use the copper/washer type. A reasonable job can be done with a small hammer with care.

A small hole punch can be useful if you want a really neat job, but a good carving knife works well enough with a bit of skill.


If you need to make strips, just make a strip cutter out of a piece of wood and your knife. You can also make a stitch grooving router in the same way just with the knife turned through 90 degrees.

I have polished the back of the fork to press any stitching flat or put creases into wet leather.

Steal a beeswax candel from the misses, or buy prewaxed thread.
 

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