Knife Restoration for whittling

[Mark the Bodger]

Good morning all,

Whilst doing a bit of a clear out in the loft I stumbled upon an old pen knife from the previous home owner, probably when the house was built over 50 years ago. Both sides of the handle have broken off leaving the pins still there.

I would like to have a go at whittling and thought I could turn this knife into a project in itself.
links to photos;

20200501-094136 hosted at ImgBB

Image 20200501-094136 in Knife album

ibb.co

20200501-094124 hosted at ImgBB

Image 20200501-094124 in Knife album

ibb.co

20200501-094114 hosted at ImgBB

Image 20200501-094114 in Knife album

ibb.co

I would like to know a few things before I ruin a project before it has begun!
1) should I keep the same shape of the blade
2) should I try and straighten the cutting edge of the blade
3) should I leave the pins in before putting new handles on, or cut and drill them out
4) what glue should I use to fix everything together
5) how do I sharpen the blade for whittling

I have looked on the internet for these answers, but unfortunately I am getting a mixed bag of answers.
also as we are in lockdown at the moment I am trying to do this with what I have in the garage.

I appreciate any answers.

Thanks
Mark

 

[Mesquite]

My take on your questions would be:

1) should I keep the same shape of the blade
Yes as you can always alter the shape at later date once you've had a play with it.

2) should I try and straighten the cutting edge of the blade
See 1

3) should I leave the pins in before putting new handles on, or cut and drill them out
Leave them in unless you fancy reconstructing the whole knife with new pins etc.
You can easily fit new scales by making a cardboard pattern of where the pins are and drilling the scales to fit. Just file off any of the mushrooming the pins might have so fitting the scales is easier and you get a tighter fit.

4) what glue should I use to fix everything together
A slow acting epoxy is fine. 5 minute setting means you'll be rushing around fitting and clamping before it sets

5) how do I sharpen the blade for whittling
Theres lots of YT videos on sharpening but a full flat grind is good but has to be maintained more than a grind with micro bevel or convex grind.
The important thing is making sure it's really sharpso you get crisp carving lines.

 

[Mark the Bodger]

My take on your questions would be:

1) should I keep the same shape of the blade
Yes as you can always alter the shape at later date once you've had a play with it.

2) should I try and straighten the cutting edge of the blade
See 1

3) should I leave the pins in before putting new handles on, or cut and drill them out
Leave them in unless you fancy reconstructing the whole knife with new pins etc.
You can easily fit new scales by making a cardboard pattern of where the pins are and drilling the scales to fit. Just file off any of the mushrooming the pins might have so fitting the scales is easier and you get a tighter fit.

4) what glue should I use to fix everything together
A slow acting epoxy is fine. 5 minute setting means you'll be rushing around fitting and clamping before it sets

5) how do I sharpen the blade for whittling
Theres lots of YT videos on sharpening but a full flat grind is good but has to be maintained more than a grind with micro bevel or convex grind.
The important thing is making sure it's really sharpso you get crisp carving lines.

Wow, that was a quick reply! Thank you for your answers, good points and a few terminology words for me to learn. I will look into the sharpening videos and see which is best suited for me. Thanks again

 

[Broch]

I agree with everything Mesquite has said except I would replace the pins and fit new ones as part of the process of putting new scales on but doing as M suggests will be easier.

I would also keep as much of the character of the knife as possible.

It's worth noting that you can still buy an H M Slater pocket knife for around £12

Pen, Pocket and Sheath Knives from Herbert M Slater

 

[Mark the Bodger]

Hi Broch,

Thank you for the help, I agree, the knife feels like it has some character and thanks for letting me know about the website.

 

[Robson Valley]

A dull knife is a dangerous knife. This needs to be "carving sharp."
I suggest that you start with quality Linden (aka basswood).
You can't do what you see others do without good woods and sharp tools.
Many woods turn from cheese to bone when they dry and you will be disappointed with their toughness.
But, there's only one way to "learn the wood."

A few sheets of fine automotive wet& dry finishing sandpaper (600, 800, 1000, 1200 & 1500 grits)
Your strop can be a length of file folder or junk food box card (crisps).
Green chromium Oxide is good as a honing compound,so is plain white Aluminum Oxide.
Total included bevel angle maybe 15 degrees for whittling, no more is a far bigger "push" to open the wood.

By all means, give this a go. Carving, whittling, is a satisfying concept.

 

[Tengu]

It looks a great knife and one with potential.

Im sure you will enjoy restoring it