Japanese Waterstones Question

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alpha_centaur

Settler
Jan 2, 2006
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Millport, Scotland
I'm finally taking the plunge and investing in a set of japanese Waterstones:

I'm thinking of getting them from Axminster and of buying the 1000/6000 combo stone along with a nagura stone. Or is there somewhere else thats better to buy them from?

Also Is it worth also buying the Non-skid holder or is that just an unnecessary expense?
 

Mesquite

It is what it is.
Mar 5, 2008
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~Hemel Hempstead~
I'm finally taking the plunge and investing in a set of japanese Waterstones:

I'm thinking of getting them from Axminster and of buying the 1000/6000 combo stone along with a nagura stone. Or is there somewhere else thats better to buy them from?

Also Is it worth also buying the Non-skid holder or is that just an unnecessary expense?

Axminster do a good price on them. As for the none slip mat... get a mouse mat :)
 

Shewie

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Dec 15, 2005
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MikeE

Full Member
Sep 12, 2005
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I've got one of these sets and they are very good (bought mine a while ago so not so expensive). The holder raises the stones above the work-surface and give clearance for the hand holding the knife. I'm thinking of getting a combination stone to enhance this but am not sure which to get.
 

pteron

Acutorum Opifex
Nov 10, 2003
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pteron.org
yeah hi why dont you try a very good friend of mine "calsterman" go on ebay and put in world of survival he is a great bloke very good prices or ring him direct 01382 807143
tell him jason told you to get in contact he might give you a discount
cheers shropshireman

Mmmm, £9.75 from Axeminster, £17.95 from calsterman.....
 

oetzi

Settler
Apr 25, 2005
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My basic sharpening is done with a aprox 300grid waterstone and then the 800/1000 finishes it off.
i dont use any finet stone no more, instead its a strop.
a piece of wood, with twp pieces of rubber from an old car tube glued on both sides is a cheap and good working holder.
 

Dave Budd

Gold Trader
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Jan 8, 2006
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www.davebudd.com
personally I wouldn't bother with the fine combination stone unless you are sharpening carving tools. For most other knives 1000 is fine enough.

as for the other bits, if you actually need them, then I have been doing something very wrong for a long time!

I hold my stones in a support made from a length of roofing batton (3.4x2" crappy wood, surplus from building project) and bakedbean can. Cut a piece 8" long and two bits 2" long. Screw the short lengths to the ends of teh long length and the stone will fit between them. I cut a couple of strips of tin and nailed them to the sides of the batton so that the stone won't slide sideways. This is then screwed to a table, clamped in a vice, nailed to a fence post, etc depending on where I am suing the stone ;)

I've never found the need for the basin either. I store my stones drya dn soak before use ina bucket of water. I have an old washingup bottle with clean watewr in it to irrigate the stone as I go.

Also never found the need for the nag stone. It's purpose is to produce a finer polish than the stone's grit size would dictate. Since I am stropping with a polishing compound on it, there is no need for the extra consumable ;)

just my humble, tight fisted, thoughts :D
 

alpha_centaur

Settler
Jan 2, 2006
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Millport, Scotland
I eventually plumped for a 1000/6000 combo stone and a nagura stone, and a mouse mat to stop it slipping all over the place

And I can honestly say my knives have never been less blunt :D Still cant get hair popping sharp but that'll require practise.
 

slowworm

Full Member
May 8, 2008
1,980
933
Devon
Should be a nice set if you add a little Nag stone to it.

Thanks for that, ordered the set and the nag stone and it's arrived safely. :)

Only slight gripe is that it says read the instructions before use and there's none provided. I assume there's plenty of instructions and tips online?
 

Shewie

Mod
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Dec 15, 2005
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Thanks for that, ordered the set and the nag stone and it's arrived safely. :)

Only slight gripe is that it says read the instructions before use and there's none provided. I assume there's plenty of instructions and tips online?

Just leave them to soak in a bowl of cold water for about 5 - 10 minutes or until they stop "fizzing".
Or do you mean how to actually sharpen with them ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=We1-CDNaSFs
 

Amon81

Nomad
Mar 9, 2009
368
126
42
Birmingham
I assume there's plenty of instructions and tips online?

Yes there are. Google and youtube are your friend.

Also if you have Ray Mears Bushcraft dvd then he pretty much does the text book version in the extras section.

Edit: I just followed the link posted in the above post and thats the one off the dvd.
 
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slowworm

Full Member
May 8, 2008
1,980
933
Devon
Yep, I watched the Ray Mears video and the stones seem very easy to use and worked well. I did have to spend a few hours removing the secondary bevel on my knife, it needed doing though as I just couldn't get it that sharp before, now it's much better.:)
 

Amon81

Nomad
Mar 9, 2009
368
126
42
Birmingham
The 800 grit stone is a great stone for removing unwanted bevels and I use it to remove the sanding marks made when the bevel is made on the blade, gives all my knifes a nice mirror finish (with 6000 grit and strop).

I've reprofiled a couple of old cheaper knifes that wouldn't really hold a decent edge, now they are scary sharp.

A perfect example is my CRKT Ryan Plan B I bought back in about 2000, I could never really get it sharp, 10 minutes with my stones and its Fantastic! I've used it to gut a couple of fish since and it cut though them like they are made of paper.



The top of the blade isn't sharpened it's just thinner as it cuts better. With its current edge it would cut your thumb to the bone with less force then the weight of the blade. Yes its not the best looking shapening job in the world BUT its amazing just how good a job Japanese stones do!

Oh yes, one last thing I found that NOT using my 6000 girt after my 1200 grit gets stainless blades much sharper, unlike everything else the 6000 seems to dull them. By doing this I found I could get my 12 year old Buck copy which cost a whopping £5 about as sharp as a new Stanley knife blade.
 
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ToneWood

Tenderfoot
Feb 22, 2012
78
0
Wessex
...Oh yes, one last thing I found that NOT using my 6000 girt after my 1200 grit gets stainless blades much sharper, unlike everything else the 6000 seems to dull them. By doing this I found I could get my 12 year old Buck copy which cost a whopping £5 about as sharp as a new Stanley knife blade.
Really, are you sure? Sometimes micro-serrations work better than a very sharp blade, they can act like a saw (e.g. for slicing tomatoes or cutting rope). The 6000 will likely flatten and reduce the micro-serrations but the result should be sharper. (However, I know the feeling.)
 

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