Gabardine Jacket Query

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Bookshelf

New Member
Apr 22, 2021
3
0
47
NZ
Hi all,

I have a query about gabardine jackets/smocks that I was hoping other members could help with.

I'm looking for a jacket for fishing, walking and hunting that is 100% cotton, in olive-green (i.e. not camo), but otherwise resembles the British Army S95 smock/jacket (i.e. with baggy pockets and a full-length zip, as well as being lightweight, and shower- and thorn-proof).

While reading other posts, I came across 100% cotton gabardine. Is this material robust - in other words, as robust as the fabric the S95 jacket is made of and, if not, could it be doubled-up in thickness to increase its thorn-proof qualities?

Anyway, I'm thinking about getting someone to make me a jacket out of 100% cotton gabardine, based on the S95 one. However, before I do that, does anyone know of a quality commercial version with the above features? Earlier posts talked about the SASS smock, but I believe they're no longer made.

All the best, and I look forward to hearing from you!

Bookshelf.
 

Erbswurst

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 5, 2018
3,174
1,263
Berlin
The German navy issued totally different looking Gabardine coats, long and short.

The short ones are called Colani like the designer family. But attention, there are wool versions too.
 

Toddy

Mod
Mod
Jan 21, 2005
36,893
2,772
S. Lanarkshire
Were they wool rather than cotton though ?
Wool gaberdine is very much showerproof, and it's warm even when soaked. Heavy though.
 

Erbswurst

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 5, 2018
3,174
1,263
Berlin
Good question.

I think Gabardine is the weaving pattern rather than the material description and what was issued by the armies probably was a material mix of wool and viscose, perhaps containing a bit cotton too.

But to be honest I just used them because that's a great summer material for fresh and windy weather.

For such complicated questions we have here a Technical Lesson Master, a @TLM.
 

SCOMAN

Full Member
Dec 31, 2005
2,366
335
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Perthshire
I don't know the cost of gaberdine material and manufacture but would a ventile option suit? They're not cheap and I haven't used the company myself;

 

Bookshelf

New Member
Apr 22, 2021
3
0
47
NZ
Hi all, thank you very much for your advice and replies. Scoman: I haven't got as far as finding out the cost involved in getting one made, but if it's expensive I won't go ahead. The St Kilda looks wonderful but is, as you say, rather expensive! If only a commercial outfit made a 100% cotton gabardine military-style jacket in non-military colours!
 

Tiley

Full Member
Oct 19, 2006
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Gloucestershire
I don't know the cost of gaberdine material and manufacture but would a ventile option suit? They're not cheap and I haven't used the company myself;


That looks very like the now unavailable SASS Kit smock. It looks good but I always struggle to see the point of bum and arm pockets...
 

Billy-o

Native
Apr 19, 2018
1,848
866
Canada
I have a UK army smock made of gaberdine ... only cost £35 snagged off the ebay, and is in all ways bloody marvellous. You'll still see them. You just have to put some hours in. Lighter than the standard variety; quicker to dry out, better at bouncing the wind off. too All depends if you can live with the camo. It is an SAS pattern, I think. But, I cant quite recall what exactly that meant. Something to do with the hood? It is amazing how all those distinctions that mean so much at the time of hunting mean so little a few years later.

Silvermans sell their own version of it, and if you are ever in London the place is worth a visit. Theirs are between £170-250, though. Just DPM left in stock now. I notice there's one in 180/104. That's my size :)

I never understand why things like this aren't made in plain green. Though, since Uncle Ray is more or less off the TV now promoting the great outdoors, I suppose there aren't many that see an opportunity in making stuff for his audience.


SASSKit used to make an amazing one in Ventile. Sold mine ... I have no freaking clue why I did; likely one of those phases of poverty that fall on one periodically.

EDIT - I just had a look on ebay. There are half a dozen or so. Check with the seller that it is actually gabardine. Sometimes people get confused with their terminology.

 
Last edited:

Bookshelf

New Member
Apr 22, 2021
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47
NZ
Hi Billy-o,

Thank you very much for the information. I'd like to use it for hunting, fishing and casual wear, and think that the military camo pattern might be a tad un-PC! However, I'll keep on the lookout for one, and will post again if I can track one down in olive green, etc.

It's a shame that manufacturers don't think of the civvie market, but then I guess it's a matter of supply and demand!

Cheers for now,

Bookshelf.
 

MikeLA

Full Member
May 17, 2011
1,660
155
Northumberland
Owned a SAS dpm gabardine smock from survival aids in the 1980s and a SASS made one. They were excellent the best smocks i have ever owned light tough and windproof.
 

nitrambur

Settler
Jan 14, 2010
753
72
51
Nottingham
Another vote for the Särmä Windproof Smock, but not if your heart really is set on 100% cotton. Varusteleka know their stuff and wouldn't choose polycotton if it was no good.
 

Kilbith

Member
Oct 18, 2013
49
4
South West
100% cotton gabardine must be heavy (like +200g/m²) if you want something really resistant. Same (and worst) for the rare wool gabardine.
Normally you could accept some synthetic with cotton. Of course "G1000" from Fjallraven is a good exemple, but every polycotton is quite good (ex : varusteleka).
The classical OD nyco jacket is of course US M65 (very very resistant). You could find repro at fine price.
 

JB101

Full Member
Feb 18, 2020
44
21
Watford
A couple of alternatives here , Claymore do make to measure so you could specify what you want.
 

bigbear

Full Member
May 1, 2008
954
123
Yorkshire
A word for Ventile, I too has an SSAS smock which I got here second hand, wore for years, loved, and sold at a crazy profit on Ebay to part fund a Hilltrek Double ventile full zip jacket, a truly wondrous piece of kit. It will see me out.
Never owned Gabardine but I too understand it go be burly stuff, not sure if double Ventile would be lighter or not.
 
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Billy-o

Native
Apr 19, 2018
1,848
866
Canada
Yes, Ventile is good too ... in fact I am not sure I understand the difference between it and gabardine ... maybe gabardine is lighter, slightly crinklier sounding? But they seem to behave just well as each other, windproof and waterresitant if they have a DWR on

I wondered if this might suit you. I keep looking at it long and hard, but can't get my credit card to agree.

 
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TLM

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Nov 16, 2019
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Vantaa, Finland
Seems slightly complicated as usual. Ventile originally seems to be very long fiber cotton plain weave, very tight. Gabardine apparently is a twill weave, tight but can be made of various materials. Ridged on one side smoother on the other. Both gain fron DWR or wax impregnation.

So not really a weave style or material but a combination.
 

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