First staff of the year.

Andy T

Full Member
Sep 8, 2010
899
27
Stoke on Trent.
This staff has an ash shaft with an oak top. The spacers are leather and brass. The head is fixed to the shaft with a piece of 8mm stainless steel bar and the antler tips with a piece of 6mm stainless steel bar. A couple more coats of wax/oil and it's ready to go.

 
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ship

Tenderfoot
Nov 27, 2005
94
0
57
NE UK
Another beauty Andy, my first thoughts were, add a spiked ferrule and u got a sweet shooting stick.
A couple of questions,
mines had a few more coats linseed oil,should I carry on with that or is it worth waxing it now or a mix of both?
do you make she...., sheal......, knobsticks?:D

all the best,
ship
 

Goatboy

Full Member
Jan 31, 2005
14,956
12
Scotland
Nice looking staff really like the play of materials. And as Ship says it would make a decent rifle rest. I like spiked ferules on my sticks - makes it an impromptu spear!:eek:
 

Andy T

Full Member
Sep 8, 2010
899
27
Stoke on Trent.
Thanks for the compliments lads all appreciated.

Ship i oil mine a few times first i think that the oil soaks in better being thinner. Then after about a week of oiling it everyday i oil and wax it for the next few days. One advantage you have using the oil/wax mix is that after you've applied it let it dry and you can buff it. It won't be as shiny as if it had been varnished but i prefer it, and i think oiling a staff is better than varnishing it because the oil soaks in, where varnish sits on the top. As the staff gets a few little knocks, as they all do eventually, this damages the varnish and lets water in under the varnish causing the wood to swell and more varnish coming off.
I have been thinking of fitting an alpine spike, one i make myself, because i agree it would make a decent rest for a rifle.
Do i make sillelaghs........i have been hoping to find a nice piece of wood to have a go. Not found one yet.If and when i do i think it may take quite a while to dry because i'd like to use a harder wood and the thickness of the top.