Anyone use a hatchet / small axe for bushcraft?

[HillBill]

. You can swing it two handed like a proper axe and you can carve with it like a hatchet but it doesn't really do either very well.

I agree there Robin. I really think the SFA is one of the poorer bushcraft offerings. Its an axe disigned for cutting softwood after all. It struggles with hardwoods is abysmal at splitting, is too unwieldy to carve well and too short for a proper swing, needing more of a push pull technique. Probably the most dangerous out there. But, they are made well and ray endorses them so i hardly think anything we say will make a difference.

I have been looking at the snow and neally hudson bay pattern which looks promising, more of an all round head shape/thickness and a little longer than the SFA. I reckon this will put the SFA in the shade as far as a good all rounder goes. Would struggle with carving though, but would be much better at hardwoods and splitting

Do you have experience/knowledge of the S&N axe at all Robin?

http://www.snowandnealley.com/products/axes/hbca24.htm

 

[HillBill]

I have a SFA and a mini hatchet (and I've just got an argos axe which I'm working on......

I have to admit I use the mini more than the SFA though I expect the argos axe will get fair use in camp soon

I use my argos axe more than any of my others, it works better as a one for all axe. I have had it about a year or so and use it most weeks, only had to sharpen it once after the initial re grind. It just seems to hold a good working edge for ages. The steel is harder than GB steel, but is tough. I have hit a nail with it before not deliberately it was in wood, and it cut through the nail. It did have a dink in the edge but it wasnt a chip. They seem to be both pretty hard and very tough. A better all round head than the GB's i reckon, just not handmade in sewden,

 

[HillBill]

How big do you need to go? with a Hatchet it is possible to cleave a 12' x 24" oak tree into fence rails, and in just a winters day. Ok you could do it by carving a maul and wedges with just about any sharp knife, but how big does it need to be before a felling axe is really needed?

Thats all well and good mate, but if your out in the woods you want to conserve your energy. Were alright here in the UK were never far from something but Tye is in canada which is big and empty in comparison to the UK.

Out there energy conservation is key. If its really cold you dont want to be swinging away for hours with a tool too light to do the job well, you would do the work, not the tool. You would sweat...bad and you would tire yourself out.... bad......add them both up and you get really bad.

A larger axe requires much less effort from the user as its own weight does the work, so you tire less, sweat much less and that means you are far safer.

EDIT. I think most of this has been covered, need to read the whole thread first

 

[Le Loup]

I totally agree with the use of a felling axe where that sort of work is required. Because of my interest in 18th century living History, I only use early to mid 18th century equipment and tools. My felling axe head is quite small, but larger and heavier than a belt axe. I purchased a double bit axe helve for it because it is longer and straight. Normally I make my own helves, but I came across this one at the market and it was dirt cheap!
The longer helve gives my swing a lot more power, making the job much easier and compensating for the smaller head.
But I also have a half-axe, which started life as a large tomahawk. Too large to carry comfortably in my belt, so I made and fitted a longer helve. It weighs very little, but is good for those larger jobs when I don't have the felling axe.
Right now I am researching just how 18th century settlers carried their tools and equipment when travelling on foot. Many of them were indentured for 7 years or so, and when their contract was finished they did not have the money to purchase horses or stock.
I have started building a log cabin in Fox Valley, and it would be hard work without the felling axe!

Thats all well and good mate, but if your out in the woods you want to conserve your energy. Were alright here in the UK were never far from something but Tye is in canada which is big and empty in comparison to the UK.

Out there energy conservation is key. If its really cold you dont want to be swinging away for hours with a tool too light to do the job well, you would do the work, not the tool. You would sweat...bad and you would tire yourself out.... bad......add them both up and you get really bad.

A larger axe requires much less effort from the user as its own weight does the work, so you tire less, sweat much less and that means you are far safer.

EDIT. I think most of this has been covered, need to read the whole thread first

 

[Alchemist]

Let me lighten the mood.

I use a cheap hatchet from Argos. Cost me just over a tenner and was recommended by Robin Wood. It is all I need at the moment. It carves wood for spoons, limbs the bits of wood I scavenge from donors and splits kindling for my open fire.
I love it to pieces and it is on sale at Argos at the moment I have heard (£3).
I reground it carefully with a b&q sharpening stone that slots into the drill. I estimated the angles with bits of card I had cut to shape.
Big thank you to Robin for taking time to post his advice to us hopeless novices. I am making a sheath for it at the moment.

If I were to spend time in the Boreal forest then I may take the GB SFA as a jack of all and a master of none. There isn't much need for that in cosy Hampshire!