A question on holdfasts

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Feb 17, 2012
1,061
77
Surbiton, Surrey
Hi all,

I am thinking of picking up a holdfast to help with some carving projects.

My main issue is a have a huge carving stump but no bench which is where holdfasts are typically used.

If I were to shorten the leg to say 4" and drill a corresponding hole in the stump would this work the same way or am I wasting my time?

Cheers, Hamster


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Jaeger

Full Member
Dec 3, 2014
670
24
United Kingdom
Aye Up Hamster,

Just wondering if you spun anyone else on here with the word 'Holdfast' in the title - AEH's?

Not sure about your Q? - if I correctly understand what you are asking it could depend on the length of the cramp? limbs; the strength of the stump before/after you have drilled it; the angle(s) that are created when you tighten the cramp up?

Is a B&D work mate not up to the job? You might pick one up cheap on ebabe.
 

Fraxinus

Settler
Oct 26, 2008
935
31
Canterbury
Depends on the holdfast. Most rely on friction between the top and bottom of a hole drilled into a thickness of timber. Those like the Marples one and it's clones need the metal plate to be set into the work surface to work.
For one to work in your stump you would need to drill a hole "x" deep then ream out below that point to allow it to work. This would be best done with a forstner bit with an extension attachment but I've not seen one for years.

Rob.
 
Feb 17, 2012
1,061
77
Surbiton, Surrey
Aye Up Hamster,

Just wondering if you spun anyone else on here with the word 'Holdfast' in the title - AEH's?

Not sure about your Q? - if I correctly understand what you are asking it could depend on the length of the cramp? limbs; the strength of the stump before/after you have drilled it; the angle(s) that are created when you tighten the cramp up?

Is a B&D work mate not up to the job? You might pick one up cheap on ebabe.

I had a workmate a while back but even when weighted down it would move all over the place as most of the carving I do that needs things held down are fairly heavy - axe work, adze, gouges etc...


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Feb 17, 2012
1,061
77
Surbiton, Surrey
Depends on the holdfast. Most rely on friction between the top and bottom of a hole drilled into a thickness of timber. Those like the Marples one and it's clones need the metal plate to be set into the work surface to work.
For one to work in your stump you would need to drill a hole "x" deep then ream out below that point to allow it to work. This would be best done with a forstner bit with an extension attachment but I've not seen one for years.

Rob.

I see exactly what you mean, I had wanted to avoid weakening the stump by boring cavities if I could avoid it but that does make sense.


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KenThis

Full Member
Jun 14, 2016
825
121
Cardiff
how about drilling the hole say 8 inchs deep and an inch diameter.
But then lining the top 6 inchs with a piece of solid metal tubing.
Sorry I can't draw a picture.

That way the 'holdfast' is held by the metal tubing not the stump directly and you have only to drill the one hole.

I guess you could even use two pieces of angle iron to make a square box.
Sorry just thinking outloud....
 
Dec 6, 2013
417
5
N.E.Lincs.
Would a 'C' shaped 'dog' work bottom of the 'C' going into hole/holes in the SIDE of the stump and the work held down with a wedge....Various size C clamps should not be that hard to make or bend if all the have to hold steady is wood, I doubt they would see a lot of force from the wedge.

D.B.
 

Robson Valley

Full Member
Nov 24, 2014
9,959
2,664
McBride, BC
I drilled a bunch of 5/16" holes in one of my carving benches, a stump would be no different.
I have an assortment of 3/8" lag bolts and eye bolts. I use a ratchet strap clamp to keep the carvings from walking around.

I used Drain Bamaged's idea and put the eye bolts arounds the sides of the bench.
That keeps those suckers right at knee cap height.

a) I don't think that the holes weakened the bench top (3 pcs 4x4x48 cedar.)
b) I had to drill all the holes all the way through the bench. Otherwise, they filled up with chips very quickly.
 

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