Search results

Yoeman, when did you get yours? Bought mine earlier this month and it's not the same as yours, no adjustment.

This is all assuming the blade is evenly tempered mono steel. Hardeness and toughness can be combined by either using two different types of steel laminated together or by hardening or tempering the edge differently from the spine. This is one of the advantages of shallow hardening plain...

Just a thought, could we have a 'sites' sticky (kind of like the 'links' sticky in the resources section) to build up a list of bushcraft friendy camp sites and other accommodation?

This is all assuming you need to have your sleeping bag inside your pack. I've gone for a forty four litre sack on the basis that it is a good size for a large day sack in it's own right, and for more extended trips bulky items such as sleeping bag, mat, tarp and water bottles can be mounted on...

I've just got a Highlander Forces 44 in anticipation of doing some wild camping and have tried it out on a few local walks stuffed with clothes and with a sleeping bag, kip mat and tarp strapped on and it seems very sturdy and versatile. Everyone who owned a Highlander product ten years ago...

There was almost an answer to your question in there... my vote would be for a knife worn on the right with the blade facing backwards.... but that prference isn't so strong that I'm in a hurry to get any more leather.

Due to a fit of spatial disorientation (ie a cock-up) I made the sheath for my knife to go on my left hip (I'm right handed) with the edge facing back, but found this awkward and now wear it on my right with the edge facing forward. This means I push on the rear edge of the sheath with my index...

I'll... third what's been said with the added comment that one of the good things about carbon steel is that it can develope a character over time, a patina that tells of it's history and can stand against further unwanted corrosion. With this in mind I'd recommend just using a cloth and metal...

Woo-hoo! :You_Rock_ Thanks Andrew, that was fun! PM on its way

Err, for friction fire lighting, to lubricate the bearing block when using a bow/drill type thingy?

1. Nose oil for oiling wood, especially ebony, accelerates the polishing process. 2. Willow, boilng in Lye is called 'retting'. 3. "Ashwood green and ashwood brown Fit for a queen with a golden crown" Good for burning, a golden crown of flames. 4. STOP and brew a cup of tea! 5...

If you are not doing the forging/grinding and heat treatment yourself, very little difference apart from the obvious. There are hundreds of different types of both stainless and carbon steels, some of which make good blades and some of which don't, and it depends how they are treated as well...

I guess one of the problems for open access, especially for wild camping, would be the population density in many parts of England, especially the south, compared to Scotland. It would probably have do be done with different regions having different levels of access. What could be cool is if...

Just noticed the 'MichiganKnives' tag... have to wait until Sargey logs in again to find out if it is them to whom he refers.

I got the picture, the way Sargey phrased it (this outfit has the KoA axe) made me think he was talking about another supplier other than Knives of Alaska themselves?

Sorry, which outfit? Should there be a link? I Checked It out on KoA's own site and it looks good, but a little pricey, even with the strong pound after p&p and import duties it would probably end up much the same as a GB mini or wildlife hatchet, but thanks for pointing it out. :)

Since it's been a few months since this thread was active I thought I'd ask if anyone knows of any change in the quality of the heat treatment of the Vaughans hatchet. Maybe if they were having teething problems with the new design that have now been sorted... probably wishful thinking, it...

The Devils Advocaat! [what, no tumbleweed emoticon?]

What is Satan's favourite drink...