Looks like you have done a good job. I wouldn’t worry about the small gap unless it causes the head to wiggle but you could add another small wedge wood into the front.
That’s how I aimed my argument. The issues lie in high populated areas. I also mentioned how it’s not best practise to use machinery in bird nesting season to manage habitats.
Named for the materials it is built from. The steel is 1095, brass, fallow antler, spalted oak and brass.
Hammer forged down to a taper. The spine starts at 3.2mm and works down to 2.7mm
£110 and £5 postage in the Uk. Buyer needs to prove age before purchase.
I think £200 is a little cheap for a custom knife. You’re expecting the smith to first form the stacked layer or canisters then draw it out then work a knife from it. That’s a lot of man hours. You could however buy the steel you are after and supply it to the smith already in billet form.
I was also going to suggest Neath but I think that’s a long trip for Broch.
I’ve had an old springer I kept at my fathers for years. Always fancies a PCP but I just don’t think I would use it enough to justify it.
I was about to say the opposite. If the head does become slightly loose a temporary fix would be to soak it over night in linseed oil as this would buy some time. Your quite right in saying that you shouldn’t count it as a repair though.
As this thread has sort of taken a side step. I personally find what are known as bushcraft knives to have a really thick spine which isn’t that necessary. For my own personal use between 2.5 and 3mm are ideal for carving tasks and even battening through wood. What’s everyone else’s thoughts?
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