Full Tang in Nalgene Bottle?
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No, I'm always ready to move.
I usually sleep with the head on the packed rucksack!
The Brisa Elver blade is STAINLESS STEEL, available with scandi grind too.
The sizes are nearly identic.
The Terävä knives are made of Carbon steel, they could rust in my bottle.
Or not, because it's dry and air tight???
In regular use I have no problem with rust, but in such a "just in case bottle" that could become a real problem.
I think I would get the Terävä 85 with plastic sheath into the bottle, the Brisa with leather sheath only diagonal. Both blades are available blank.
The Terävä handle is moulded around the steel, the Brisa has usual scales, the hand touches the steel.
So for relatively warm conditions both are a good idea, the stainless blade is probably the better option.
For perhaps extreme cold conditions the Terävä knives are the better idea, because the hand doesn't freeze to the steel.
The question is if a film of food oil protects the blade enough.
Would I wrap a tape around the bare tang I don't touch both steels, but need to make a simple sheath. That can be done by hand or within 5 minutes by every shoemaker.
That's especially an option should I discover, that the complete knifes don't fit with all the other stuff in my bottle.
I like the Terävä knives, but I like the Brisa Elver too.
Usually I would decide now pretty unfair which nation I generally prefere. Because I don't know the differences of Finnish tribes, in this case that's no option.
I usually sleep with the head on the packed rucksack!
The Brisa Elver blade is STAINLESS STEEL, available with scandi grind too.
The sizes are nearly identic.
The Terävä knives are made of Carbon steel, they could rust in my bottle.
Or not, because it's dry and air tight???
In regular use I have no problem with rust, but in such a "just in case bottle" that could become a real problem.
I think I would get the Terävä 85 with plastic sheath into the bottle, the Brisa with leather sheath only diagonal. Both blades are available blank.
The Terävä handle is moulded around the steel, the Brisa has usual scales, the hand touches the steel.
So for relatively warm conditions both are a good idea, the stainless blade is probably the better option.
For perhaps extreme cold conditions the Terävä knives are the better idea, because the hand doesn't freeze to the steel.
The question is if a film of food oil protects the blade enough.
Would I wrap a tape around the bare tang I don't touch both steels, but need to make a simple sheath. That can be done by hand or within 5 minutes by every shoemaker.
That's especially an option should I discover, that the complete knifes don't fit with all the other stuff in my bottle.
I like the Terävä knives, but I like the Brisa Elver too.
Usually I would decide now pretty unfair which nation I generally prefere. Because I don't know the differences of Finnish tribes, in this case that's no option.
That's the reason I suggested the Elver ... the Terava tang maybe isn't quite hand-shaped
You could use paracord or a long boot lace, or a pair of them to make the handle.Though having just re-read that, I can see that it doesn't make a lot of sense, and that the Terava might well be the better option for the wrapped handle precisely because it has been designed to have a rubber handle around it.
So, onto another topic: what else will go in the bottle?
Food oil works but it goes rancid in a year or so, coconut oil is the best in that respect. Candle wax will last half way forever. I think Leka has a new stainless set in the works but when it comes out is not known.
I have a skeleton 85 and the tang is fairly nicely shaped.
I have a skeleton 85 and the tang is fairly nicely shaped.
My idea is to pack the following items together:
Bottle, Nalgene stainless steel
Wire snare to hang it over a fire
TBS 750 ml Billy Can
Perhaps a spoon
Knife, Terävä Jääkäripuukko 85
. or Brisa Elver
. or LionSteel M1-GOR
Ferrocerium rod, light my fire Scout, orange
Lighter, Bic mini, orange
Compass Silva Ranger SL
Head lamp, Petzl e+lite
Spare batteries in small plastic bag
Whistle, Fox 40 Micro, orange
Poncho, Defcon 5 (as bivvy bag too)
Cordage, Edelrid Multicord 2,5 mm, 3 m long, orange (to tension poncho as plow point shelter or make a tripod)
Ground sheet, polycryo or bin bag
Zipp lock freezer bag to keep the small stuff together. Or Caperlan pouch.
I guess it will fit into the Nagelne stainless steel bottle, but I didn't try it out yet.
Aditional into the bottle or bottle carrier pouch a map of the area in a second zip lock freezer bag.
www.thebushcraftstore.co.uk
Bottle, Nalgene stainless steel
Wire snare to hang it over a fire
TBS 750 ml Billy Can
Perhaps a spoon
Knife, Terävä Jääkäripuukko 85
. or Brisa Elver
. or LionSteel M1-GOR
Ferrocerium rod, light my fire Scout, orange
Lighter, Bic mini, orange
Compass Silva Ranger SL
Head lamp, Petzl e+lite
Spare batteries in small plastic bag
Whistle, Fox 40 Micro, orange
Poncho, Defcon 5 (as bivvy bag too)
Cordage, Edelrid Multicord 2,5 mm, 3 m long, orange (to tension poncho as plow point shelter or make a tripod)
Ground sheet, polycryo or bin bag
Zipp lock freezer bag to keep the small stuff together. Or Caperlan pouch.
I guess it will fit into the Nagelne stainless steel bottle, but I didn't try it out yet.
Aditional into the bottle or bottle carrier pouch a map of the area in a second zip lock freezer bag.
TBS 750ml Stainless Steel Billy Can Cup with Bail Handle & Lid
The TBS 750ml pot with a bail handle is truly an excellent piece of kit. It has so much going for it and has been really well thought out for the
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This stick tang has been used for battoning wood almost exclusively for seven years by Scouts so far it has survived
The Splitter 1 by Alf Branch, on Flickr
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When you baton it through a 5 inch diameter log it takes some hammer for a knife handle that is much the same as one on a 4 inch blade I could also stick a handle on this in the woods but not a full tang blade
I have seen broken stick tang blades.
They are nice for carving and food preparation but in my opinion less good survival knifes.
I recommend to take a Mora Companion and try to break it. You will probably be surprised how easy it is.
They are nice for carving and food preparation but in my opinion less good survival knifes.
I recommend to take a Mora Companion and try to break it. You will probably be surprised how easy it is.
If you have learned how to use a knive correctly, you will of course not break a stick tang knife so easily, especially if it is one of the usual Scandinavic quality makers.
If I think about, I have only seen broken old Frosts, and new Morakniv and Asian stuff, but never a broken EKA, Helle, Marttiini, or hand made one from a smaller manufacturer. That may have something to do with the fact, that more expensive knives usually are owned by more experienced people. But that also may result of the fact, that the cheap usual Mora knives simply have pretty thin blades. The Fulltang Morakniv Garberg is of course as good as indestructible, but I guess even the Mora Companion Heavy Duty doesn't break so easily.
If I think about, I have only seen broken old Frosts, and new Morakniv and Asian stuff, but never a broken EKA, Helle, Marttiini, or hand made one from a smaller manufacturer. That may have something to do with the fact, that more expensive knives usually are owned by more experienced people. But that also may result of the fact, that the cheap usual Mora knives simply have pretty thin blades. The Fulltang Morakniv Garberg is of course as good as indestructible, but I guess even the Mora Companion Heavy Duty doesn't break so easily.
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I have seen enough broken ones from major manufacturers so that is no guarantee but they have all been brittle fractures with usually no plastic deformation at all. The easiest explanation for that is that the the tang at the break was not tempered for some reason, anyway it is a big quality control issue. My experience is that a "single" knifemaker takes more care of matters like that. A slightly bent knife can most of the time still be used but one broken is most of the time useless.
I once made an emergency handle to a knife that had broken at the blade/tang junction, yes it could be used for limited work but at a guess 3/4 of the capabilities were gone and at the end I had to use the steel wire I had with me to keep the contraption together.
I once made an emergency handle to a knife that had broken at the blade/tang junction, yes it could be used for limited work but at a guess 3/4 of the capabilities were gone and at the end I had to use the steel wire I had with me to keep the contraption together.
Perhaps the traditional stick tang design doesn't work well together with the modern hardened steel?
And of course we have to see, that even the usual Marttiini boy scout knifes are sold pretty cheap, and simply aren't meant to baton them through knots in branches.
When they had been designed people used a hatchet for splitting wood.
(Marttiini recently also constructed a new full tang survival knife, by the way. )
And of course we have to see, that even the usual Marttiini boy scout knifes are sold pretty cheap, and simply aren't meant to baton them through knots in branches.
When they had been designed people used a hatchet for splitting wood.
(Marttiini recently also constructed a new full tang survival knife, by the way. )
