Recent content by Finger

Yes Mr C. Although my primary field is car mechanics, I retrained as a mechanical engineer :beerchug: The ceramic side is quite abrasive but wears smoother with use so maybe that's what the supplier meant by not using water? Im not sure...But we seem to have gone off on a bit of a tangent, not...

Yes Mr C. Although my primary field is car mechanics, I retrained as a mechanical engineer :beerchug: The ceramic side is quite abrasive but wears smoother with use so maybe that's what the supplier meant by not using water? Im not sure...But we seem to have gone off on a bit of a tangent, not...

Another thing, the link to Fallkniven does say "use no oil or water" a bit further down under the how to use section.

Wet & dry used wet effectively makes it a finer grit, used in the late stages of car body repairs and sometimes as a final stage cut and polish. Going by that, the stone may not be effective enough when wet. This is what I was thinking when the advert made a point of saying do not use wet. Also...

It is a laquer coating, I took it off the spine with an old cheapo whetstone and it clogged up solid. I would like to get out there and use it but unfortunately I don't have the opportunity at the moment, I'm sure it will wear off with use but it might need sharpening before that. Also using a...

Not sure about nitromors, if I remember it has a similar effect to pickle paste, turning stainless steel white. A quick email to TBS could be worth a try. It isn't waxed, it's a hard laquer like you would get on a car, it arrived sharp but I haven't had chance to get out into the wilderness yet...

Evening happy campers, I'm the proud new owner of a TBS Boar mk2 with a stainless steel blade. The problem is that it came with a laquered blade which will clog up the whet stone (especially my small DC4). What I need to know is how I can remove the laquer easilly without damaging the blade. Any...