Miniature Aluminium Alcohol Stove

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I noticed some aluminium bottled, pump spray applicators, in Poundland, so decided to make a miniature version of the good old aluminium bottle alcohol stove.

The bottles are pretty much the same design, but around half the diameter.

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Here are the steps, for those no aware of the process.

1: Mark the bottle at the top and bottom, the same distance from each end.

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2: Cut the bottle into three pieces, along these two lines. It's easier if you use a mitre block, to help keep the cuts straight.

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3: Make four cuts, across the mouth of what used to be the top, of the bottle. This creates 8 small notches, that allow the fuel to pass into the pressure chamber.

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4: Turn the top section and insert the mouth of the bottle (the narrow end) into the bottom section, like so...

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5: place these sections between two pieces of board, then between the jaws of a large clamp. Make sure the ends are as parallel as possible.

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6: Tighten the clamp, to compress the top section into the bottom section, making sure the boards remain parallel, until the rims of both sections are level.

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-When removed from the clamp, it should look like this...

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7: Using an upturned belt sander, smooth the cut edges, to level the (now) top of the stove.

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8: Mark the 8 positions for the jets. Again it's easier if you mark them on the top edge first, then using a block to maintain high, mark around the stove in the corresponding places, then mark an X where the jets will be.

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9: Drill a 2mm hole, at each of these Xs. I found it more controllable, if you lay the drill on it;s side, then "block up" the workpiece to get the correct high.

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10: Once the holes have been drilled, use a panel pin to angle the jets upward.

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11: After a little sanding, to smooth any sharp protrusions, you're done. All ready to fill with fuel and get cooking.

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ateallthepies

Native
Aug 11, 2011
1,558
0
hertfordshire
Good idea about directing the jets upwards. I think I will try that on my creations.

Have you experimented with the jet size, I see you use 2mm holes? I have been using a 1mm bit on a similar type stove and have got a pint to a boil in about 9.5 minutes.

Steve.
 
Thanks for the kind words guys.

@ateallthepies this is the fourth stove of this design (all be it a smaller version) I have made, and with smaller jets I find the pressure is that bit higher, causing the flames to bloom very wide, which is great for bigger pots, but not so great for smaller ones. This is a problem I've had with several side burners. The larger version of this boiled 1L in 6.5 minutes, plus the 2.5 minutes to prime, so total 9 minutes.
 

Shewie

Mod
Mod
Dec 15, 2005
24,259
24
48
Yorkshire
Good stuff mate

I use a length of masking tape with holes spaced 5mm apart, I wrap it round a lynx can and they just line up perfectly.

Try another one with 1mm holes but a lot more of them, you should get a lower but more consistent flame.
 

Ivan...

Ex member
Jul 28, 2011
1,771
0
Dartmoor
Oi Savage ! you are getting a bit good at this sort of thing! very good pal , i should know he has made me one and it works a treat , only coz i am too lazy , nice tutorial and photos , well done mate .

see you soon

Ivan...
 

luckylee

On a new Journey
Aug 24, 2010
2,412
0
birmingham
i have also made a lot of these and have found that the 1.2 mill holes are perfect.
great tutorial mate.
take care
lee.
 

ateallthepies

Native
Aug 11, 2011
1,558
0
hertfordshire
I just counted the holes in my twin walled pellet tin stove and have 15 1mm holes. My stove blooms almost straight away so my 9.5 minutes for one pint doesn't seem that good?

Steve.
 

Gill

Full Member
Jun 29, 2004
3,478
11
57
SCOTLAND
Thanks i likes that a lot , i have made a couple before i put some wicking material in before i clamped it .
 
I just counted the holes in my twin walled pellet tin stove and have 15 1mm holes. My stove blooms almost straight away so my 9.5 minutes for one pint doesn't seem that good?

Steve.

I have used a pellet tin before too, same sort of time as your's. I'm not sure why they take longer. Maybe it's just that bit too thick, or because it's tin, not ali. No idea.


Thanks Gil. I've heard carbon fibre strand is good for the wick. I've tried fibreglass, but it never seems to make any difference on mine lol. Oh well, it's not all about speed. Your in the woods to live in harmony with it, make the most of a slower pace of life. I don't mind my cuppa taking a few minutes longer :)
 

spandit

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 6, 2011
5,594
308
East Sussex, UK
Has anyone tried seeing how a stove like this differs from just lighting a tin full of meths? Very pretty 'n' all but for rapidly heating water, does the flame pattern have any advantage?

I'd presume that once it's going, you could put a pan directly on top or would this extinguish it? Is the fuel actually wicking up the sides of the can (capillary action) or is it the vapour that's burning?
 
Firstly, the jet pattern is only really there to provide even heat distribution, for cooking etc. It also seems to help conserve fuel a little.
Secondly, yes, Once the stove has "primed", the pan can be placed directly on the stove, with the jets still firing. The heat build up between the walls, pressurises the vapour inside, creating the jets. The pan on top keeps the temp high, while having several jets means if one should go out (due to wind or whatever) it will be reignited by the ones either side of it.

Not sure if any of that made sense or not, but I hope it did :)

Adam
 

spandit

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 6, 2011
5,594
308
East Sussex, UK
Must make one of these soon. Is it not safer to drill the holes before fitting the two halves (safer as in less likely to pierce the inner can)?
 

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