Brades 347 project. Does anyone know what size handle it should have?

[njc110381]

Hi all. I've been on a bit of a buying spree recently and have started searching for old axe heads at car boot sales. I've found a few, but one worthy of my attention is a Brades 347. I can't find any information on it and it's not in any catalogues that I've managed to look up. I wondered if anyone here knows anything about it?

It's a 2 1/2lb head. Quite small in depth but quite thick. I'd describe it as a light splitting axe rather than a felling axe. The cheeks extend down to give extra support and it's quite angular, like a Welsh pattern.

I'm wondering what size handle to fit to it? It's not really up to a full size one but it's more than a hatchet. I've not seen anything like it in it's original form so I'd appreciate some advice from those of you with more experience. I'm thinking something in the 25-30" range will be about right. I want to use it for splitting small logs and I want to make sure I get it looking something like it would have originally.

Your thoughts would be much appreciated.

 

[Broch]

Saving old axes from car boot fairs gets addictive!!

All the Brades 347 axes were listed as felling axes in the catalogue I have (1922), from 4 to 7 Ibs (mine is the full 7Lb one and is a fantastic axe to use). Then there is a another listing a few lines down of 'handled' versions - again 347 with weights from 3 to 6Lbs - but none, in the copy of the catalogue I have, at 2 1/2Lb

The handle lengths are not listed unfortunately and the only plate that shows the 347 looks like the full size felling version. However, they all look quite long-handled.

Sorry, not a lot of help!

Cheers,

Broch

 

[Robson Valley]

The grain orientation of the handle wood is much more important than the appearance.
The striking strength is all you need be concerned with. 2.5# is for splitting kindling.
The mass saves you a lot of effort.
See my (now out of focus) avatar? That's a crap log that needs a 3.5# to chop up
without busting a gut.

 

[scruff]

Firstly, congratulations, sounds like you have got the perfect sized axe head there. I have also recently acquired a Brades Criterion head of a similar weight.

This would make the perfect 'boys' aka. 3/4 size axe. If you keep an eye out for a helve in the region of 28"-30" *, you will have a well balanced axe.

*If you are average size and height, I'd also wager this is gonna be finger tip to armpit length too.

I have a few axes in this size and weight zone, and have found it to be a perfect for both woodcraft and woodland management tasks, including full days splitting (try that for 7-8hrs with a splitting maul) as well as snedding and limbing woods such as beech, oak, larch and Scots pine.

Good luck with getting the hang of it, and be sure to share your results once it's done.

 

[njc110381]

Thanks all. It sounds like my intended handle length was somewhere handy - good to know!

I can and have done a full day of splitting with a 6lb maul, but I agree there are easier ways to spend your time! I quite like it really. On a cold day you can stay warm by battering logs. I'd rather be doing that than standing still. That said, these days I tend to use the Posch splitter on my Unimog to do the tough knotty bits that my Gransfors maul won't get through easily. If I hit it more than three times with that and it's not split, it goes on the "I'll show you who's boss later" pile. 100hp going into a 9" cone splitter doesn't fail to have them apart and quite often once that initial break is made, the maul can do the rest.

Would you really use it to split kindling? I have a little Elwell 1 1/4 that lives on my hearth for that job. Either that or I baton it down with a decent knife. I guess for the initial splits it would make it a tap it and sorted job rather than a beat it several times until it gives in affair?!