I used jb weld to put a knife handle on. Some oozed out on the blade and dried. How can I get it off the blade? I can’t sand or grind it off because it is up next to the handle and I don’t want to scratch the metal. Any ideas?
jb weld on knife blade
- Thread starter Forest Wonderer
- Start date
-
Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
I'd make a little tool like a chisel or scraper out of brass; that wouldn't scratch the steel, but you might have to be careful that it doesn't slip into the handle.
Thanks, that is a good idea. I could make a small chisel out of a piece of brass brazing rod.
Try brass. I don't know if that metal is hard enough to cut into JB Weld.
I like to modify farrier's crooked hoof trimming knives for wood carving.
Maybe done 20(?) and all blades were seated in new handles wih JBWeld ( love that stuff)
I use a big magnifying glass, a very bright LED light and a "carving sharp" skew chisel.
Just scrape and peel away a little shaving of the JB at a time. I know I only have to do it once.
At arm's length, I don't notice any scratches in the blades.
I like to modify farrier's crooked hoof trimming knives for wood carving.
Maybe done 20(?) and all blades were seated in new handles wih JBWeld ( love that stuff)
I use a big magnifying glass, a very bright LED light and a "carving sharp" skew chisel.
Just scrape and peel away a little shaving of the JB at a time. I know I only have to do it once.
At arm's length, I don't notice any scratches in the blades.
I use a scalpel. To avoid too much mess, I apply a thin layer of Vaseline on the blade, within a couple mm from the handle. then cover it with blue paper masking tape.
Ive tried lots of different options for chisels for scraping on knife blades and the best I've found is a bevelled piece of G10 so far
Is G10 a type of steel?
I'm still making little messes with JBWeld and a better clean-up method won't hurt me none.
I'm still making little messes with JBWeld and a better clean-up method won't hurt me none.
Glass fibre composite, commonly used as handle material on knives. A bit like micarta, I’m sure you’ve seen it.
https://www.knifeart.com/g10-knife-handle-material.html
Thanks. I wonder if G10 is the material used for the handles of many of my Fiskars horticultural tools?
Like the hollow shafts on the pole pruners. I am really surprised that I have never broken any of those.
We just call all those things "fiberglass," regardless of the epoxy or methacrylate resin component.
I do like that JBWeld: sticky and thus a bit messy. A bit less viscosity and a little more open time for
the things that I use it for would be nice features. As is, if I plan everything, wonderful.
Must be epoxy resins as my epoxy allergy goes into high gear if I don't cover up with gloves.
Have been days when I wondered if I could carve anything from a big blob of JB.
Inexpensive woodworking chisels are adequate in my shop for carving it off.
The knife blades are used as templates to carve inlets as blade seats. Surface hafted.
Then, I set the blade in a puddle of JB Weld, go upstairs and come back the next day.
Rock-hard, I prune off the goobies with some steel edge.
The cord whipping is decoration.
Like the hollow shafts on the pole pruners. I am really surprised that I have never broken any of those.
We just call all those things "fiberglass," regardless of the epoxy or methacrylate resin component.
I do like that JBWeld: sticky and thus a bit messy. A bit less viscosity and a little more open time for
the things that I use it for would be nice features. As is, if I plan everything, wonderful.
Must be epoxy resins as my epoxy allergy goes into high gear if I don't cover up with gloves.
Have been days when I wondered if I could carve anything from a big blob of JB.
Inexpensive woodworking chisels are adequate in my shop for carving it off.
The knife blades are used as templates to carve inlets as blade seats. Surface hafted.
Then, I set the blade in a puddle of JB Weld, go upstairs and come back the next day.
Rock-hard, I prune off the goobies with some steel edge.
The cord whipping is decoration.
G10 is basically glassfibre reinforced resin ( plastic) cured under gigh pressure.
You know ’carbon fiber’ as used in high end aeronautical, marine and automotive applications?
Replace the carbon strands with glass strands and you have G10.
G10 compared to standard GRP : harder, ( stiffer) porosity free and much more expensive.
I doubt Fiskars use G10. No need.
You know ’carbon fiber’ as used in high end aeronautical, marine and automotive applications?
Replace the carbon strands with glass strands and you have G10.
G10 compared to standard GRP : harder, ( stiffer) porosity free and much more expensive.
I doubt Fiskars use G10. No need.
FW, A thread came up on Nathan's Ballistic Studies forum for removing matchgrade bedding compound from a barrel.
Seems like it might apply to your situation.
"Soak the areas with a solvent.
Nail polish remover can be useful for this.
After a few minutes, chip the compound away. Do NOT sand it.
To chip the compound away, the best tool is a piece of bone (roast) sharpened to a chisel edge. Use this with a hammer. Chip at an angle of about 60 degrees. To reiterate, this is not a joke reply- a bone tool is the very best for working on the gun steel without marring it."
HTH
Important Disclaimer
Being a manly man and not a nailpolish wearing type I have no experience of such things.
Any rumours of nail polish and nail polish solvent being found amongst my my airgun tools is just that, a rumour & unproven.
And if it was to be found there it would be because nail polish is a good non permanent thread locker
End of notice
Janne I've no idea, as I've never used the technique however I'm guessing that the key would be in how you apply it.
I had it in mind that FW would paint it on in moderation using a small artists brush or nailpolish brush type applicator.
Daubing it on indiscriminately or immersing the knife, (if that's even possible), so that the solvent was going places it wasn't wanted wouldn't be such a good idea.
Perhaps clamping the blade at an angle so any excess runs off might help but could be problematic with work angles etc. Only FW will know this
Besides doesn't this stuff evaporate fairly quickly?
Masking up the adjacent areas, applying a little at a time and and working slowly I can think of no reason it wouldn't work or be worth trying, after all it's been proven on gun barrels.
If FW is a knife make he'll have some more JB and possibly a scrap piece of the same blade steel laying around to set up as a test piece to experiment on.
Love your disclaimer!!
I have never thought that nailvarnish could be a threadlock.
Super, super idea!
Thanks!
JB Weld is a two component epoxy so it should behave like the other epoxyies?
I have never thought that nailvarnish could be a threadlock.
Super, super idea!
Thanks!
JB Weld is a two component epoxy so it should behave like the other epoxyies?
I don’t know what that Fiskars stuff is, but it’s not G10. Bloody strong stuff, I shone a torch up the end of my brush hook and was amazed at how that tiny tang holds out against the punishment the tool takes.
Nice little carvers there Brian.
Thanks. JBWeld was an experiment. Nothing has ever broken loose and I have tried to beak one, just to see where it fails.