Car fix costs advice (trade costs)

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Paul_B

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 14, 2008
6,151
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Cumbria
We coughed up the money and went on holiday. Not worth the worry in the end, was my partner's view. It's only money right? Brakes failing could be worse. Plus it's not been an expensive car to keep on the road despite being VAG motor (SEAT).

The brakes were sponge to say the least but do stop the car. Handbrake is noisy and it has little tolerance between slipping and biting on a hill. The garage ended up replacing one of the new calipers because he wasn't happy with it on the handbrake. That slightly worries me but it works OK so no problem I think.

We've almost decided on replacing it anyway son. Just need to sort out what we want now. Van, small van/car, mpv/estate car or smaller, economical car that can still tow trailer / caravan or a campervan?
 

Janne

Sent off - Not allowed to play
Feb 10, 2016
12,330
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Grand Cayman, Norway, Sweden
Something smells truly fishy here. After that repair/replacement the brakes should be perfect. Spongy? Air bubbles in brake fluid sounds like.

I would take it somewhere else to check.
I personally would not sell a car with dodgy brakes.
 
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MrEd

Life Member
Feb 18, 2010
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Surrey/Sussex
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I replaced both front calipers on my landrover, and discs and pads with OEM, bled with quality fluid and I paid about £250 in parts and fluid and other small bits (calipers bolts etc). Took me about 2-3hours if my time.

Your quote doesn’t sound mega outrageous to me, yeah you can probably find it cheaper by economising on parts etc.

Have you tried a quote from the usual suspects like kwik fit etc for a comparison?
 

MrEd

Life Member
Feb 18, 2010
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A seized caliper is easy to fix.. But takes time, so quicker ( but more expensive) to replace.

When I work on my drum brakes or disk brakes, I use a light coat of anti seize grease ( copper grease) when I assemble.

Same on wheel bolts, both on steel wheels and magnesium.

(I am not a mechanic, but a hobbyist that collect and restore cars. And bikes. Well, anything with an engine!
Building a bad a$$ G wagen now. Project name G655 Cayman. You will read about it in some car mags next year!)

Generally speaking, I like the brand garages, unless I found an independent garage that has the computers ( and skill) to work on that particular brand.

My mechanic knows I am a distrusting guy, so he automatically gives me the old parts.

If you are given the old calipers, you can sell them on Fleabay, just remember a correct description.

Remember, always demand OEM. You do not want them to put "Almost as good brakes as OEM" on your gravestone!
:)

I have never, and have been taught to not copper greased wheel nuts as then there is the risk of repeated over-torquing which can stretch the thread or stud and can result in nut/stud failure.

Wheel nuts should be torqued dry to manufacturers spec.

Cooper grease on the back of the wheel where it meets the drum etc is good.

I use cooper grease when assembling, but red brake lube when rebuilding calipers
 

Janne

Sent off - Not allowed to play
Feb 10, 2016
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Grand Cayman, Norway, Sweden
Interesting!
What would the reason be to over torque if greased?

I use a torgue wrench to tighten. I have a mix of steel, Aluminium and Magnesium wheels, and have no clue how to torque them down correctly ‘by feel’.
 
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Janne

Sent off - Not allowed to play
Feb 10, 2016
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I use Molybdenium disulfide grease too in some areas.....

I will look online into the greese thing, I know much to nothing about them.

I will never understand why the svivel on a Defender has to be greased with an gel oil like substance...
Specific for the purpose, which means impossible to find outside UK.
 

MrEd

Life Member
Feb 18, 2010
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Surrey/Sussex
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Interesting!
What would the reason be to over torque if greased?

I use a torgue wrench to tighten. I have a mix of steel, Aluminium and Magnesium wheels, and have no clue how to torque them down correctly ‘by feel’.

I can’t torque by feel either. I always use a torque wrench.

Lubing bolts increases the amount of force being applied to the threads so you can inadvertently overtighten the bolt etc. Bolts etc hold by tension on the inclined portion of the thread by a minute amount of material ‘stretch’ (tension). If you go beyond this stretch point the bolt won’t actually be holding as tight so can potentially work loose more easily.

That’s my understanding anyway.

I torque as per specs, if it’s spec’d dry then I don’t use lube. In critical applications (calipers bolts for instance) I would torque dry, use threadlock and just factor in possibly replacing the bolt if I had to remove it.
 

MrEd

Life Member
Feb 18, 2010
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Surrey/Sussex
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I use Molybdenium disulfide grease too in some areas.....

I will look online into the greese thing, I know much to nothing about them.

I will never understand why the svivel on a Defender has to be greased with an gel oil like substance...
Specific for the purpose, which means impossible to find outside UK.

You can actually just fill the swivels in a defender with gear oil. Trouble is due to the wiper design of the seal they will inevitably leak eventually.

The ‘one shot’ thick grey-graphite type stuff was developed to overcome this as grease can’t leK out!

You can use the oil but make sure your swivel seals are top notch and you top up if needed.

I am not sure what the swivel grease and s but it’s quite thick grey stuff.

I use this stuff (or similar) for rebuilding brakes as it’s rubber seal safe, where as normal types of grease can swell the seals or make them perish rapidly

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/...MI-67y8uyX3QIVDbDtCh3lLAwZEAQYAiABEgI8bvD_BwE
 

Janne

Sent off - Not allowed to play
Feb 10, 2016
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Grand Cayman, Norway, Sweden
Fantastic info, thank you.

I started using Copper grease ( anti seize) years ago when I snapped off a couple of studs on a vintage car ( a pre WW2 MB) I was restoring. Of course, no available replacement studs, had to be fabricated which was expensive.

So you would say that Gear Oil of the thickest sort would work?
Checking the level is easy. I do it anyway, together with the engine and gearbox.
You see, to ship stuff from UK like oil is really tricky.
 

MrEd

Life Member
Feb 18, 2010
2,148
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Surrey/Sussex
www.thetimechamber.co.uk
Fantastic info, thank you.

I started using Copper grease ( anti seize) years ago when I snapped off a couple of studs on a vintage car ( a pre WW2 MB) I was restoring. Of course, no available replacement studs, had to be fabricated which was expensive.

So you would say that Gear Oil of the thickest sort would work?
Checking the level is easy. I do it anyway, together with the engine and gearbox.
You see, to ship stuff from UK like oil is really tricky.

not sure, i have a massive defender genuine service and parts book, i will look to see what grade oil is listed, i *think* its 90w or something like ep80/90 like the transfer box but i will have a check in a short while and post back
 
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MrEd

Life Member
Feb 18, 2010
2,148
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Surrey/Sussex
www.thetimechamber.co.uk
right couple of options. First up quantity. each swivel should be filled with 350mls/370g in weight

options are EP90 gear oil, 350mls in each swivel (3/4 pint)

OR

EP90 gear oil mixed 50/50 with LM grease - put in 370g in each swivel if you do this. this 50/50 mix is basically what the one shot grease is.....
 

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