I'm looking to aquire a bow of my own, and I wanted to invite the thoughts of more experienced users on this site. I was planning to make my own, but at present I have neither the time or the skill to make something satisfactory. I want a bow of fairly traditional appearance although I don't mind if it is made of more modern materials if it makes it more affordable. I'm also thinking that in terms of draw weight I'd like something in the 50lbs+. I've shot a 50lb bow before and it wasn't a problem, but is there a downside to a more powerfull bow. The main thing is that I wan't to shoot wooden, homemade arrows at simulated hunting targets. Are there any recommended supliers or makers out there? and what should I avoid?
A bow of my own
- Thread starter twelveboar
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Whoops, I seem to have submitted this in the wrong category, any chance of moving it to general kit chatter, please?
twelveboar said:
Make your own
from ash from your local woodyard. if you have access to power tools then it will take about 4-6 hours
I make them as a hobby and have done workshops at BCUK meets. Because of the lack of power tools it took a bit longer some a few people walked away with usable bows after a days work.
I am currently working on a bit of a tutorial on the how-to's and this will be available soon.
An ash bow will never be a superb hunting weapon but will provide a perfectly adequat tool for pinging away at targets upto 50yards or so.
I'm happy to have a go at making one, and have access to tools, although I don't know if I'd be able to do things like tillering properly. I would appreciate a "how to" with photos, as if your bows are as neat as your leatherwork Bardster, they'll be pretty neat.
Twelveboar,
If you want to buy, I expect you're looking for something they use in field archery (as opposed to target archery). Unless you go to silly money for a proper bow-hunter (in excess of £250), you should be looking for either a one piece wooden bow or a wooden take down bow. The cheapest decent bow I've seen is a Samick SKB traditional bow which is a Korean type bow, but reasonably cheap at about £70. Others hunter bows will go up to about £180.
It depends what you want and how much money you've got to spend. Have a look here and it might give you an idea.
Pablo
If you want to buy, I expect you're looking for something they use in field archery (as opposed to target archery). Unless you go to silly money for a proper bow-hunter (in excess of £250), you should be looking for either a one piece wooden bow or a wooden take down bow. The cheapest decent bow I've seen is a Samick SKB traditional bow which is a Korean type bow, but reasonably cheap at about £70. Others hunter bows will go up to about £180.
It depends what you want and how much money you've got to spend. Have a look here and it might give you an idea.
Pablo
Pablo said:
Thats not a bad price for that style of bow
The other style that is popular is the american flat bow - samick also do one of those. But if you want a traditional english longbow ( and who wouldn't ) then you are looking at £80 for a basic ash bow upto £400 for a self yew bow. Keep your eyes peeled for the article - hopefully will appear in the next few weeks.
I've just stumbled across this site. It might be of interest.
http://www.stickbow.com/features/index.cfm?feature=selfbows
Pablo
http://www.stickbow.com/features/index.cfm?feature=selfbows
Pablo
If you want to buy a bow these people are quite good and they are having a sale to sell off there archery stock now.
Andrew.
http://www.eagleclassicarchery.co.uk/index.htm
Andrew.
http://www.eagleclassicarchery.co.uk/index.htm
nooky said:
but you will need to be quick, as they are ceasing trading as soon asa they have sold their remaining stock
Andy
AlbeoLupus said:but you will need to be quick, as they are ceasing trading as soon asa they have sold their remaining stock
Andy
Yeah - thats a real shame - especially aas my bowyer friend sells through them - he's gonna have to find another outlet now
Thanks for the help, everyone, I think the homemade route is the one I'll go down and see how it turns out. If it's ok I might even post a few pics. There's plenty to look at on the sights you've highlighted.
I think the homemade route is the one I'll go down and see how it turns out. If it's ok I might even post a few pics. There's plenty to look at on the sights you've highlighted.It is often advised to start with a low draw weight (say 25 to 30lb for a man) in order to develop good 'form'. In the US, where there is little target archery but lots of bowhunting, people seem to often start with 45 to 50lb.
In the US, hunting recurves, made of glass and wood laminates, were enormously popular in the 50s, 60s and early 70s, and made by makers like Bear, Pearson, Shakespeare Red Wing, Browning, Root and Black Widow. Then the compound bow was invented and the recurves confined to the loft. Now they are often sold on ebay at low prices.
It's worth doing an ebay international search on 'recurve'. Postage is expensive (say 20 USD) and there is always the chance of picking up a dud. Also some bows (Bears especially) are now collectible and this puts up the price.
However, it's worth considering as they were and are very good bows. I have a 1967 Bear Tigercat, 45lb pull, 62" long, and I'm never selling it. I think it cost about £50 delivered.
A recurve is, IMO, easier to shoot than a longbow. Then again, it's good to make things yourself. Might have a go myself.
Making your own arrows from components is easy. Can lend you a fletching jig if you want.
In the US, hunting recurves, made of glass and wood laminates, were enormously popular in the 50s, 60s and early 70s, and made by makers like Bear, Pearson, Shakespeare Red Wing, Browning, Root and Black Widow. Then the compound bow was invented and the recurves confined to the loft. Now they are often sold on ebay at low prices.
It's worth doing an ebay international search on 'recurve'. Postage is expensive (say 20 USD) and there is always the chance of picking up a dud. Also some bows (Bears especially) are now collectible and this puts up the price.
However, it's worth considering as they were and are very good bows. I have a 1967 Bear Tigercat, 45lb pull, 62" long, and I'm never selling it. I think it cost about £50 delivered.
A recurve is, IMO, easier to shoot than a longbow. Then again, it's good to make things yourself. Might have a go myself.
Making your own arrows from components is easy. Can lend you a fletching jig if you want.
Happy New Year, everyone!
Okay, I'm new to this forum, but I have a suggestion for Twelveboar.
Try out the bamboo bow.
It's cheap and easy to make.
Also, it shoots as hard as you want (just buy thicker bamboo).
I tried one design called the Panda Bow (seems to be off the net now, sniffle )
You needed only three canes, one full length, one half length and one in the middle (e.g. 180 cm. + 90 cm. + 135 cm.)
The problem was the thin leg at one end (I broke one, but made a new lower nock, and now have a sweet little practice/girlfriend bow).
But my first Panda shoots mighty hard as is. It also taught me the importance of a sturdy string.
Realizing that I had a piece of my chin under the nail of my middle finger, I decided to use flax for the next string.
I'm thinking of a design, still using three canes, but making two long ones of (total length - 1/8 of total). Using the thicker end for the leg and extending this half of the total length from the midpoint, I would use the short cane (half total length) for reference.
Cryptic? Okay, mark the midpoint on the short (half total length) cane.
Mark up the length of the short cane on both long canes, from the thick end.
Align all three marks and twine/tape/glue/whatever the three canes together.
Gotta try this one out soon...
BTW, Twelveboar.
What about arrows?
Good luck with the bowmaker's project!
Okay, I'm new to this forum, but I have a suggestion for Twelveboar.
Try out the bamboo bow.
It's cheap and easy to make.
Also, it shoots as hard as you want (just buy thicker bamboo).
I tried one design called the Panda Bow (seems to be off the net now, sniffle
)You needed only three canes, one full length, one half length and one in the middle (e.g. 180 cm. + 90 cm. + 135 cm.)
The problem was the thin leg at one end (I broke one, but made a new lower nock, and now have a sweet little practice/girlfriend bow).
But my first Panda shoots mighty hard as is. It also taught me the importance of a sturdy string.
Realizing that I had a piece of my chin under the nail of my middle finger, I decided to use flax for the next string.
I'm thinking of a design, still using three canes, but making two long ones of (total length - 1/8 of total). Using the thicker end for the leg and extending this half of the total length from the midpoint, I would use the short cane (half total length) for reference.
Cryptic? Okay, mark the midpoint on the short (half total length) cane.
Mark up the length of the short cane on both long canes, from the thick end.
Align all three marks and twine/tape/glue/whatever the three canes together.
Gotta try this one out soon...
BTW, Twelveboar.
What about arrows?
Good luck with the bowmaker's project!
Infragreen
If you haven't already, take a look at these
stovie jr
Chris Claycomb's excellent tutorial
bamboo bow III
I'd be interested in seeing a picture of your bamboo bow...
If you haven't already, take a look at these
stovie jr
Chris Claycomb's excellent tutorial
bamboo bow III
I'd be interested in seeing a picture of your bamboo bow...
I'll have a go at a bamboo and a wooden bow I think, I assume that some carefully selected canes from the garden centre will get me started. For an ash bow I'm assuming I just need to shape it into a rough bow shape i.e. taper it towards each end from the handle and then try to tiller it. For arrows I was going to source some hardwood dowel about 8mm diameter and go from there, for starters. I know to use feathers from the same wing and that one should be at 90 degrees from the angle of the knock. Any other pointers?
It's important to make sure you cut through as few growth rings as possible as this will significantly weaken the bow.
twelveboar said:
Twelveboar,
Go steady with any dowel. Arrow shafts are selected so that the grain runs as straight as possible along the entire length of the shaft. You should orientate any growth ring run-outs so that the "V" points towards you on the under-side of the finished arrow - this is in case the shaft snaps on release - and prevents the sharp piece from slicing through the back of your bow hand - it "should in theory" slide up over the front piece of broken arrow and away from your bow hand
Shafts bought from an archery specialist should also match the power of your bow (called arrow "spine").
Best of luck
Ogri the trog
I use glue-on nocks but these are made for 5/16" or 11/32" shafts - don't know if they would fit dowel or not. About a quid a dozen.
More traditionally, you can self-nock arrows by cutting a slit in the top - ideally across, not with the grain, to prevent splitting. Some bind the shaft to prevent splitting too.
Ideally an arrow nock should grip the string firmly enough to hold on against gravity, but fall off if you tap the string.
More traditionally, you can self-nock arrows by cutting a slit in the top - ideally across, not with the grain, to prevent splitting. Some bind the shaft to prevent splitting too.
Ideally an arrow nock should grip the string firmly enough to hold on against gravity, but fall off if you tap the string.
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