What features makes the "best" bushcraft knife?

[ErichFromm]

I'm in a situation to get a good custom knife - and now have the problem of defining exactly what I want in a bespoke bushcraft knife.

So the question I ask is - "if you could design the perfect bushcraft knife what elements would be essential?" .

What grind would it need to have – Flat, Convex, Scandi? Should there be finger choils, a wide handle? Is it just the Ray Mears Bushlore or something else?

Would love to see photos.

 

[forestwalker]

The knife that *you* are comfortable with. If you like the heavier woodlore designs pick one of those, if you like the slimmer mora style then go that way, if you like a shaped handle make it so, etc. What works for me (flat with a micro-bevel, straight back, not to thick blade, etc) may not be good for you.

 

[shep]

I'm afraid that is true. If you don't know what you want, it will be hard to get the right custom knife for you.
You might find after a year or two with your custom knife you wish you'd made that blade a little shorter/longer thicker/ thinner.

I make my own and started off with a 3mm Woodie clone with a slightly shortened blade. I then decided that I generally preferred shorter blades and I convinced myself that 4mm would be better. Only now, after using each of these for a couple of years or so do I know that what I really want is something in between the two in length and 3mm thick. It is a long process!

 

[ErichFromm]

Probably true - but frustrating given I need to choose a knife soon (being offered an expensive knife to commemorate the birth of my first child). I guess work would not understand if I asked for a few months off in the bush to work out what I really need in a knife?

So by woodie clone you mean you have a scandi grind? I'm currently trying to decide between Convex (which I'm used to) and scandi (which all the forums say is the "correct" bushcraft grind).

 

[shep]

The reason lots of people go for scandi is that is easier to sharpen than convex or other grinds. This is especially the case for people new to such things - if you're used to convex then that won't be a problem. People who know more than me have written at length about this, but there are 'classic' bushcraft or survival knives in both convex and scandi.

I would say that I find it easier to get a clean cut when carving wood with a scandi. There is a long way of explaining this, but simply: axes are convex to help with splitting the wood as it cuts, chisels have a flat bevel (like half a scandi) to give clean cuts when carving. They will both cut soft things equally well as long as they are sharp.

 

[woof]

Yep i find the scandi easy to sharpen, now also think i've found my perfect knife. I got a used Bernie Garland re-curve bushcrafter through the small adds on here & love it, as it does everything i need it to do & as i said i find the grind easy to sharpen. Draw back ?, as with most knives i find the handle slightly to short, so i commisioned, Bernie to make one with a longer handle, i now have my perfect knife.
My son has a tour of Afghan coming up, & keeps looking at them, guess i'll have to lock them up..

Rob

 

[Elen Sentier]

I'm no expert by any means but what fits your hand seems to at least part of the way to go. Perhaps go somewhere with lots of knife makers and try holding & feeling them ???

 

[midge_fodder]

If you think of all the features of knives you like, then try to find the best for you based on that. I found that comfort is also a key element, before you open your wallet make sure the knife is comfortable in your hands. Feel is the most important variable in knives in my book, which is why I gave up trying to find the customs that work for me and opted to handle my own, then I worked the scales to my hands. It was always easier to find a blade with the specifications I like, than trying to find a complete knife for my awkward hands.

 

[Tiley]

A bushcraft knife is, at best, a compromise. It is a tool that has to do so many different things from carving, to skinning to batoning to feathering and so on that it is very difficult for one blade to be a master of all of them, in much the same way as its handler may be better at carving then skinning.

I reckon that the most important bit is the handle - after all, it's the thing you hold on to! Find one that is comfy in the hand in all sorts of orientations. If possible, try it out over a prolonged period to see whether you get hot spots from it or the fit 'n' finish of the handle is uncomfortable. If it ticks those boxes, then it might be worth forking out the cash for a similar one. It's always worth talking to the makers. They will listen (if they're worth their salt) and will advise you from their experience. They know that you won't want to part with your hard-earned readies unless you're completely happy with your choice.

I have to admit that I do like the way Ben Orford makes and finishes his knives. The added bonus is that he is an immensely likeable and approachable bloke who will do what he can to ensure that your knife handle is right for you. My current fave is one of his, 3mm, 01, 4" blade, Scandi ground, with red liners and reindeer antler slabs carefully sized and shaped to fit my battered and much operated-on carving hand. I would do pictures but I'm c**p at technology! Sorry.

As ever, I've no interest... yackitty-yack... just a very happy (repeat) customer.

 

[Stew]

I reckon that the most important bit is the handle - after all, it's the thing you hold on to!

Couldn't agree more.

i can use a knife with a poor blade but comfy handle a lot easier than a perfect blade and uncomfy handle.

 

[nic.]

Well for me unless the handle is some sort of multi radiused monstrosity then I would take the perfect blade and uncomfy handle everytime. I have played around with different handle shapes and sizes and rarely notice any difference in them. But blade dimensions are very important to me. I think the biggest problem is the multi tasking asked of a bushcraft knife. Skinning and carving are direct opposed as far as I can see. A skinner, not that I do much these days, wants a flat grind, micro bevel , wide blade and lots of belly. A carver- scandi grind, narrow blade, tiny amount of belly, fine tip. So, if there was a perfect blade I would snap it up. and clone it . And become a millionare.

 

[udamiano]

I think that the question is probably the same as the piece of string one, the perfect knife to one person may not be to another. and location is a major factor as well, I'll explain what i mean;

My particular requirements are for the UK.

A good heavy blade that can take being battened. I usually go for a 4mm think blade as opposed to 2-3mm and about 100-120mm in length
A nice flat grind, that can be easily sharpened in the field (now the flat is not as robust as say a secondary bevel, but my particular need is for a flat)
A full tang (flat, not profiled) with a good stabilised wooden handle, in a coke bottle type profile.

Now this for me works great in terrain very much like the UK. However if I was going to say the Jungle, then a large wide 2mm blade with a secondary bevel would be better (basically a parang tbh)

I the arctic north, a larger heavier blade, maybe 190-225 mm in length, and 4mm think, with a longer thinker handle in a more onion profile and flared pommel and heavy guard to be more comfortable with the use of gloves. a large secondary bevel.

I use a knife on a daily basis for work, but I do go by the ethos of the right tool for the job. for instance i'm more likely to use my SFA for battening than my knife, and a small folding knife for finer jobs.
Anyway what I'm trying to say (badly) is that take your time, handle different knives, and if possible have a go with them, then talk to your maker, and discuss something that contains all the best bits you found on the knives you used.

Da

 

[dancan]

Why only get one knife ?
I would never be able to make that choice LOL

 

[cbr6fs]

My advice is to send Stuart Mitchell a PM
http://www.stuartmitchellknives.com/

I commissioned a knife off him and he was fantastic at talking me through the options, the positives and negatives of each choice.
His knives are mega tough and gorgeous

 

[ErichFromm]

That's a very nice looking knife - and I like the carry case too.

The handle looks very similar to the Enzo Trapper...is it thin and flat?

As to the "just one knife" comment - I'm afraid I have far too many knives already I'm going to take a bunch of them out in a couple of weeks and try using them for everything I can think of and then decide what features I like. I do quite like the handles that fill your hand - the Bark Rivers for example.

Will be going to the Melbourne Knife show to check out all the customs. I may have to leave my wallet with someone I can trust just to ensure I don't overdo it...

 

[Steve13]

I would second a discussion with Stuart , he recently did some work for me and it was fantastic , he is a true gent too so a pleasure to deal with

 

[JonathanD]

You need to know exactly what you want in a knife before commissioning a custom. The great thing with Stu is that if needed he will continue to modify and tweak your knife after you get it.

 

[Aussiepom]

I'd say concentrate on the handle. The size of your hand is unlikely to change, (assuming you are an adult?), whereas your taste of blade style might, over time. Pick the features, sizes, widths, etc that you most prefer from some of your existing knives and see if you can get the maker to combine them, (if compatible), into one handle. As long as the blade is of decent material and well heat treated then the profile and thickness are of secondary importance.

There are 2 aspects of the blade though that I would make specific comments about: The first, I think, would be almost universally accepted: Get the corners of the spine made 'square' rather than rounded. This makes them useful for scraping bark, etc or for use with a ferro rod. The second thing I would say, and many on this forum may want to burn me at the stake for heresy, is to avoid a scandi grind. They typically have an included angle of only about 30 degrees or sometimes less, and are simply too fragile for use on Australian hardwoods. Of course, if you tend to steer clear of working with eucalypts anyway, then this may not be an issue for you.

 

[Gaudette]

Having recently gone through the same process with my own knife i've listed below the questions I went through before I ordered my own knife. My answers won't be your answers but i hope you find the list a help.

1. What will the knife predominantly be used for?
2.what is the best material for the job?
3. What weight , thickness will be comfortable?
4. What length handle to fit my hand?
5. What length blade?
6. What shape blade is best for the job?
7. What grind is best for the job? Will I be able to sharpen it?
8. What shape handle? This may differ for left and right hand.
9.What material for the handle?
10.Liners or not. What colour?
11. Plain pins or Mosaic?
12 . Sheath?

Whoever makes your knife will be able to help provide the answers.

Good luck.

 

[Highbinder]

A knife that you know. But for methe core criteria would be: Easy to sharpen, holds an edge well, and comfortable to use.