Can't seem to get my axe sharp.

[NikolaTesla]

I've bought a small forest axe from silverline it was only £3~ so when it arrived there was a few problems.

No sheath.

Axe head is a little wobbly.

The edge was terrible.

Now I've used a 400grit stone and the edge it pretty good, even, no damage now, but I cannot get it sharp even with 800grit.

What am I doing wrong? because the edge is nice and polished...

 

[Retired Member southey]

if the axe head is wobbly, do not make it sharp, send it back

 

[NikolaTesla]

I don't want to go through the hassle to send it back, a few good knocks and the top and it goes tight, maybe I'll have to make a handle for it with a real wedge.

Can't get it sharp though, even with 400grit I can get my knife pretty sharp, and that's 400, I have a DC4 too.

 

[Retired Member southey]

how are you putting to the stones? there is a good sticky on here regarding axe sharpening, maybe at the top of the edged tools section.

 

[Retired Member southey]

in fact here you go, axe sharpening by BR

 

[plastic-ninja]

£3 is a small amount when you weigh it against what could befall you with a very sharp head on a wobbly
haft.It makes me shudder to think about it.
Knock the head off and re-handle it or throw it away and buy one you can hold first before paying.
The steel is likely not the best and may never hold much of an edge compared to a Husky,a GB or any of the other
classical-styled axes.On the plus side you do save £20 odd although at £3 it is cheap enough to use as a wedge.
Good luck with it.
Simon

 

[NikolaTesla]

I was using circular motions with the 400grit and after the edge was nice, I was using 800grit like when you sharpen a knife.

 

[Biker]

Oh nooooo. not Silverline.

In all honesty nothing I have ever bought from them has been any cop. The forstner bits burn their way through wood, the dozuki lookalike saw (which cuts on the pull stroke) the handle wobbled loose within 10 minutes of using it. The sanding disks I got that I fitted on my rotary sander lasted all over 5 mins each before delaminating and flicking bits of glass paper all over my workshop.

So I'm guessing this axe will also be made sub-standard or most likely used sub standard metals. And just like plastic-ninja said, even if you get that sharp edge you seek, keeping it could be a whole different ballgame. Just ditch it and be wiser for having wasted only a small amount of cash on a $hit Silverline product, at least this way you get to keep your skin instact.

Please don't think I'm preaching, just from experience with that company.

So take Betty's advice in this instance.

 

[NikolaTesla]

I'll guess I will get a Bacho one then, thanks.

 

[shaggystu]

exactly what biker said

 

[NikolaTesla]

exactly what biker said

Still trying to get it sharp, the angle of the edge is pretty narrow, like other axes I've seen the polished edge goes pretty far back.

 

[rg598]

Try this. Start at the 2 min mark of the video. The stone is a DC4.

[video=youtube;uP-CDLIY-wc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uP-CDLIY-wc&hd=1[/video]

 

[DS1150]

I followed Ross' advice from his blog and videos and finally, after months of messing around, I've finally got a hair shaving sharp edge on my Husqvarna. (It came from the factory with a terrible, asymetrical, edge). I found that I was too scared off losing the edge that was there so I never got close enough (fractions of a mm off) to the actual edge to get any proper work done.

 

[robevs73]

can you post a picture of the offending axe?
If I think its worth doing I will sort it out for you , it would be sharp and safe, you pay the postage.
how dose that sound?

 

[robevs73]

i just did a search and the axes look a bit crap! it would cost a fair bit to post so disregard my previous offer , is there a steel wedge in the head or just a wooden one? You can buy steel wedges for about 50p from hardware shops if you need one.