Oak proficiency test - friction fire

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rich59

Maker
Aug 28, 2005
2,217
25
65
London
Picture the scene. A class of trainee Samurai warriors assemble. This is the day when they will learn the ancient skill of fire lighting. There is absolute silence and respect as the ancient grand Samurai master enters.

"Konnichiwa"
"Konnichiwa sensai" is the reply (that is about the extent of my Japanese)

The grand master then solemnly gives each student a piece of Oak before leaving the room without saying another word. The message is clear - master this wood in reliably making fire and you have passed this task. On the way you will learn how to make fire with almost all other woods as this is the ultimate test

"Sensai" is the Japanese word for teacher. More accurately it is translated "one who has gone before".

This thread is started as a place to share experiences for any who strive to become fire-by-friction masters and pass the Oak challenge - to reliably produce fire-by-friction of Oak on Oak. Those who don't want or need the challenge - look on and laugh if you must.
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I do not yet feel I can yet claim this as I think using a power drill is cheating. I have tried a lot of woods - particularly with hand drilling. I can say that each wood has its own qualities, pros and cons. I can say that Oak has pretty well all the cons and none of the pros:-

- It is pretty hard - making it difficult to shape as a hearth board. Hard hearth boards behave differently to soft woods. You may need a smaller drill to get the same effect.
- It has a coarse grain. This makes controlling the socket progression through the hearth board difficult - tending to slew into the notch and rendering the socket unusable quickly.
- It tends to produce a coarse, gritty punk unless you have technique to beat this
- It self polishes. So one can put huge amounts of force into getting it to smoke at all. This is especially so when using Oak on Oak. If used against another wood the polishing effect is much diminished.
- Its punk seems heavy and dense so not allowing much air through the pile so it is difficult to get it to continue to burn even if the coal starts to smoke
- Its punk also seems very reluctant to smoulder even if well aerated.
- for hand drilling a nice straight shaft is not a regular occurrence
- it lacks a soft centre (unlike mullein or elder) that gives an outer ring during drilling.

The power drill test did at least give me sight of what I have to achieve to master it.
 

Roving Rich

Full Member
Oct 13, 2003
1,460
4
Nr Reading
Hmmm I think this was Tom Browns challenge from "grandfather". Erm allegedly :D
I will have to try it for myself, I am pretty good, having learned from a great "sensai"

Cheers
Rich
 

eraaij

Settler
Feb 18, 2004
557
61
Arnhem
I must say that I did have success with European Oak as board, combined with a hazel drill. A very well dried piece of Oak, I must add. Bowdrill set.

-Emile
 

match

Settler
Sep 29, 2004
707
8
Edinburgh
While oak on oak is indeed a challenge, you should try ivy on ivy :D

(That is, if you can find a straight enough piece of ivy for a spindle in the first place...)
 

rich59

Maker
Aug 28, 2005
2,217
25
65
London
Here is the kit I tried with today. The drills are about 1cm diameter. They are English oak. Not actually sure what the hearth board is made of but it is a hardwood painted (it was part of a plant container). Note my trusty ice cream scoop for a top piece. My bow is about 18 inches long and is a light, springy piece of buddliea. The bow string is ordinary cotton string.

I did come up with 2 solutions to the problem of the drill sliding gradually into the notch, thus terminating that effort prematurely. Note the burned in drill impressions at the top of the picture have not slid into the notch. On the larger board I cut a notch the entire width of the drill hole. On the smaller board I balanced the drill hole by having a notch either side.



bowdrill.jpg


The punk with the first drill tended to be quite powdery, while with the second it tended to be more coarse and gritty. It may be I was just pressing differently on different days.

When I succeeded with a power drill I set it on low speed, pressed with moderate pressure and just kept drilling for 3-5 minutes. Got a huge pile of punk that eventually started smouldering.

I think I need to achieve a large pile of rapidly produced and therefore hot punk. If I press harder I get more smoke, more punk but much grittier. If I drill faster I get a finer punk but I get exhausted quickly and I probably vibrate the set a bit - shaking down the punk into a too dense pile? My string wears after a few minutes. The way forward then is probably to seek out a bigger drill bit - may be 2cm. This should take a higher pressure on the top piece and still produce a finer punk in higher quantity. I also need to upgrade from cotton string as I probably need it to last longer before wearing out.

I may also need to employ the tricks described by Dave Little at http://www.uq.net.au/~zzdlittl/aussiefirebow.html (look down to the bit on English Oak)
 

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