full tang blades

[spoony]

having been looking at some of your knives and handles, may try this myself.
Having browsed a few sites, noticed there are many types of blade,
this is the type of blade im looking for

any pointers??

 

[Ropeman]

I'm sure if you contacted Nick Wheeler or Allan Blade (once he's taking orders again) they'd talk to you about making a blade for you to finish. Alternatively Per at http://www.thegoodstuffshop.dk/shopfront.asp or Denis at www.brisa.fi would be happy to sell you a blade.

 

[spoony]

what knid of blade would i be asking for???

 

[Ropeman]

Dennis and Per have pictures on their websites.

Send a maker a picture of what you want as a starting point for discussion.

Knives are very personal, you need to work out what you want it for and then work out what you like. I haven't found it exactly yet after well over a hundred knives owned.

 

[leon-1]

The only suggestion that I can really give you "is try one before you buy one".

Try to meet with someone that owns a knife along these lines.

The blade description is "drop point" (this is the Nick Wheeler knife that you have pictured) or in the case of the woodlore and Allans Bushcrafter they are "boarspear" I have also heard them described as "bullet point".

Full tang is where the steel travels all the way through the handle and you can see it all the way on the spine and belly of the handle. That is demonstrated pretty well with Nick Wheelers knife.

Then there are a number of "hidden tangs",

A "morticed tang" is pretty much the same width and depth as the steel of the blade (but not quite), however it is totally encased in wood or micarta (the handle material) and you will not be able to see it. This is what you have with Allans Bushcrafter

A "stick tang" you have seen on the scandi type knives where it is literally a spike of steel that runs through the handle, not all stick tangs run the full length of the handle.

 

[dtalbot]

Go over to britishblades and ask, makers like Shing, Lord F and plenty more besides willl probably be happy to make exactly what you want

 

[spoony]

The only suggestion that I can really give you "is try one before you buy one".

Try to meet with someone that owns a knife along these lines.

The blade description is "drop point" (this is the Nick Wheeler knife that you have pictured) or in the case of the woodlore and Allans Bushcrafter they are "boarspear" I have also heard them described as "bullet point".

Full tang is where the steel travels all the way through the handle and you can see it all the way on the spine and belly of the handle. That is demonstrated pretty well with Nick Wheelers knife.

Then there are a number of "hidden tangs",

A "morticed tang" is pretty much the same width and depth as the steel of the blade (but not quite), however it is totally encased in wood or micarta (the handle material) and you will not be able to see it. This is what you have with Allans Bushcrafter

A "stick tang" you have seen on the scandi type knives where it is literally a spike of steel that runs through the handle, not all stick tangs run the full length of the handle.

cheers just the info i was after, explaining the diffenert types of knives, can you advise of pros and cons between them, even if its your personal views and why?? which material is best?? steel or carbon steel and why, againthatnks for the info

 

[Hoodoo]

Over at Brisa, you might look for one of Eklund's blades. He makes a very nice full tang blade. This one was finished for me by blademan.

 

[leon-1]

These are just my personal opinions, so here we go

I use a lot of scandi's which have a straight spine (no drop), they are lighter than most because they are stick tangs, they tend to be very easy to make and very cost effective.
Generally they are carbon steel (at least the ones that I use), but are not limited to carbon steel.

Now having said that I have a Helle Harding which is a laminate and is 12c27 (if I am not mistaken) this is a stainless and is a superb knife with a slight drop point. Stainless can be a swine to sharpen , but in recent years they have got better with the addition of new steels like S30V.

I also have a brusletto which I have had for over 13 years made in 12c27 also and it has a flat spine, it is easy to sharpen and holds a good edge and I love it to bits.

Stainless is good for it's corrosion resistance, in some cases like S30V, 12c27 it holds an edge well and is quite easy to sharpen, in other cases it can be a complete pig (the likes of D2, though to be honest I don't have too many problems with it). Generally Stainless is lower maintanence than carbon steel. You cannot strike sparks off the spine of a stainless knife with flint (rock type), however I have a strike - a - light and a firesteel so it doesn't bother me too much.

Carbon steel is easier to sharpen and you can strike sparks off the spine with natural flint, but it has the down side of virtually no resistance to corrosion.

Most of my full tang knives are drop points and I have them in a number of different steels, I have a couple of Gene Ingram knives (1 in D2 the other in S30V), I have a couple of Allan Blades (both in Carbon) and a couple on order (both in S30V), a couple of Fallknivens (both VG10 stainless) and a Grohmann boat knife (steel is german supposedly the same as 440A stainless) amongst others.

I personally prefer stainless knives, I live near the sea and salt is in the air that we breath, any damp on a carbon knife quickly turns to rust in this enviroment and I want something that will last me. I am willing to put up with the difficulty in sharpening some of them as a compromise.

I prefer drop points most of the time because I am a lot less likely to puncture the stomach or intestines if I am skinning using one, they also tend to have a little more belly which will slice better than a bullet point.

In many ways my ideal knife is the Fallkniven F1 because it is pretty much indestructable in normal bushcraft use, it is a drop point and it is a stainless blade, the spine is aggressively sharp when using it with a firesteel, but be aware this is one of the ones that I find a little more difficult to sharpen to a decent edge because of the steel (VG10).

 

[jerv]

just a quick agreement with all that's been said really. plus an endorsement. I am the happy owner of a gene ingram knife. it's by far the best quality knife I have owned. I used it continuously and rigourously for three weeks in the finnish wilderness and it was still shaving hairs of my arm at the end. you might also want (if you are a very patient man that is) to look at the roger c. linger version of woodlore I was really impressesd by it.
though when price is considered the best knife I have owned was a helle.

 

[dataphage]

In many ways my ideal knife is the Fallkniven F1 because it is pretty much indestructable in normal bushcraft use, it is a drop point and it is a stainless blade, the spine is aggressively sharp when using it with a firesteel, but be aware this is one of the ones that I find a little more difficult to sharpen to a decent edge because of the steel (VG10).

Agree, you could do a whole lot worse than the F1. Very, very high quality for the price, close to indestructible it will last a lifetime. For bushcraft it might be good to buy the blade and get someone to put a nice wooden handle on it for you as the Thermorun handles can make it look a little military and wears a bit round the blade - but these are personal things.

 

[leon-1]

Agree, you could do a whole lot worse than the F1. Very, very high quality for the price, close to indestructible it will last a lifetime. For bushcraft it might be good to buy the blade and get someone to put a nice wooden handle on it for you as the Thermorun handles can make it look a little military and wears a bit round the blade - but these are personal things.

Yes I totally agree that they can look a little military with the thermorun, however I don't suffer with that, this one was modelled on my knife (style and shape for the handle), but with a different wood for the scales.